4x4_Welder

Dude, you're in the land of Dekotora : And Dekochari: And you're asking why for THIS? I know it's ugly, but at least it looks a bit normal.

If all else fails, you could probably replace that transistor and if the circuit traces on the other side are bad, jumper them with small wires. I've done that before to repair cracked circuit boards.

I use a cheap non-contact pyrometer I got at Harbor Freight a few years ago. I got mine for $40 on sale, they're less than that now regular price. This is not the one I have, but is the proper tool and quite cheap: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93983

Did that still use the glass fuses? I have had the end caps come loose from the element on those before, as well as the holders corrode and lose contact. Everything looks fine, but a quick check with a test light will show the bad one.

Yes, sounds like you blew the ignition fuse. Don't run a 20amp fan on top of that system, it's only a 15-20amp fuse to begin with.

Let's see- Cold spots in the cylinders leading to faster wear, hot spots in the heads leading to cracks, and the possibility of overheating due to the coolant moving through the radiator too fast. I've said it before, and I'll say it again- If the thermostat was an unnecessary part, automaker would save a buck by not using one. Pulling a t-stat is not a fix for anything unless you are replacing it with another one.

Nope, mechanical locking. Pull the collar up towards the ratchet, and it releases the socket. FWIW, these will not lock on Kobalts and some cheap sockets.

And MPFI with turbo- I have learned to never say never on older vehicles, especially companies that would do custom orders, and especially if the vehicle has been out in the world for more than a few years. I have had two 68-72 F100s that had a 351m or 400 in them (not offered in trucks until 77), and one that had a 429 (never offered in trucks). Now I'm about to have a GL with an EJ22, so anything can be possible.

Did you make sure the sending unit wire is still plugged together?

If it has four injectors, it's MPFI. If it has one injector just above the throttle plate, it's SPFI. The MPFI also has two intake ports in each head, instead of the single port of the SPFI and carb engines.

It's the moose strike warning system-

Dealer quoted me $160 for all o-rings. Not gonna happen, no way no how. I'm going to get a nitrile o-ring kit and do it myself. I have done some research, and nitrile/HNBR is the correct material to use.

Not really sure just yet, I'm still getting my donor engine to run right so I can get going on the swap.

Told you it was a dumb question- I was looking in the center/left area like the EA series, the intake was blocking my view of that side Oh, and Rob- The middle ones are rump roast-savers.

In my whole swap prep, I've been going over the new EJ22 and getting familiar with it, and I noticed a potential issue- There is no hole to replicate the timing mark hole on the EA82 it's replacing. This normally wouldn't be an issue, but I have a 4EAT in the destination car, and need to get to the torque converter nuts. Do I have to access these from below (major PITA) or ??

I have noticed that the turbo engines do tend to run at a lower oil pressure than the NA engines. I attribute this to the extra oil bleed-off through the turbo. Maybe they should have used the ER27 oil pump on these?

Isuzu, Volvo, and Subaru are the only ones I have seen with the hole in the headrest, but other than that they look like the ones in a Toyota MR2.

A poor connection will still show full voltage on a meter, but as soon as there is a load on the circuit, like plugging the pump back in, the resistance shows itself. If you were to check voltage while the pump was plugged in, then it would be very low. I don't think your car runs the fuel pump while cranking, just while running.

I've diagnosed a problem as the #2 injector is leaking. I am planning to throw another used injector in there, but I'd also like to change the o-rings on it. Do I have to get those from Subaru, or are they a standard o-ring?

Sounds more like a bad radiator cap. If it has a factory overflow tank, then fill the radiator all the way. If it's not drawing back in from the tank, make sure the cap vacuum break is working (little metal circle on the underside, it should move easily with finger pressure), and also make sure the hose for the overflow goes all the way to the bottom of it. If it's just at the top of the tank, it'll only suck air back in.

http://www.d.umn.edu/~alex0219/Subaru/EA2EJ.pdf Found in the engine section of the USRM. Wiring harness links in this thread also: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73676

You might not have the pivot point quite right on the pedal. If it's too far down, it will take very little pedal travel to release the clutch. If it's too far up it won't have enough travel to release.

Sounds about right, attach the strut loosely at the top, put the knuckle on it, thread the axle through, then put the balljoint in. That (minus actually removing the strut top) is how I took a knuckle out to press an axle that severely rusted in place. .75hrs paid vs 1.5hrs invested- I hated flat rate in CT.

For the life of me, I cannot figure out how an o-ring with pressure behind it gets sucked in. Installed wrong, maybe, or blown out. I would agree though that unless there is some hidden slit in that gasket, that it is not your TOD cause. I know some people don't like this trick, but usually you can fit a dime in under the HLAs to take up some slack. Not a permanent fix, but it will quiet it down for a while.

Another option is to use heavyweight plastic BBs. Don't use the metal ones as they corrode and disappear.