4x4_Welder

Yeah, it's not easy at all

Didn't know anybody willingly swapped in an EJ25 either- Lose the turbo, keep the headgasket issues.

Is the fan turning backwards? My old 81 Hatch would overheat at 20-40, it was hot above that but perfectly cool below that speed, I couldn't find the problem until I noticed my legs getting warm standing in front of the car-

Is that pinout the same as a 93?

I am going that route- actually have a 93 Legacy sitting in the driveway right now. It's best because you can try the engine out before you go through the royal PITA installation, make sure it's running right, and you have the whole harness, computer, fuel pump, etc. Piecing it together, as mentioned above, leaves you needing a bunch of little bits that generally turn out to be expensive. Parts to sell is a pretty good point too-

True, I didn't really think about that. Is the ride height any different, going into a GL? I'd assume the Legacy stuff would ride higher, being heavier than the Impreza.

Heat shield rattle, resonating at different engine RPMs. Second guess would be boost leak, but that would depend on there being boost, plus the CEL would be on. What do you mean by "the fan isn't connected to the engine by belts"? The driver's side fan bolts to the waterpump, if there isn't a belt around that pulley, then the water pump isn't turning.

I still have two of them. I just am not there anymore because I am on FTE. I was on FTE first, and honestly like that site a lot more. I have a 72 F250 hauling rig that I converted to p/s and disks, built a new 360 with a 4BBL intake, and I still have my 72 F100 4x4 project. It's currently sitting on 3/4ton axles with a fresh 352 (what I had sitting around) and is about to get modded to fit 38s. The current Subaru is my wife's, the two of us and now two kids don't fit in a pickup cab. It does sound like an output clutch issue, but that's a cakewalk repair. Find a Legacy in the junkyard up to 98, and pull the rear housing off the tranny. Get a gasket from the dealer ($5-6), and put it all together. The universal joints should be replaced as a disturbingly common failure is for the joint to seize, and then the rear housing gets ripped off the transmission. Another thought is that the tires might not all be the same- They all need to be within 1/4" CIRCUMFERENCE for things to work properly. I'm not intending to attack, but the language here is different- Subaru calls things what they want, and you can't say "I call it this and that should be good enough" especially when that term is used for something else.

As far as the radiator, I did get a cheap one off Ebay for an emergency fix, and have been happy with it. It's the single row with plastic tanks, and even in high 80s/low 90s with the a/c on, it didn't overheat or even get beyond the 1/3 mark on the gauge running an EA82T and auto. You should be even better with that same unit, it does have a lifetime warranty too.

I posted in your other thread that generally, the LSD (Limited slip differential) has a big shiny tag on it that says, of all things, LSD. Without that tag, it's best to assume it isn't an LSD, and is just a regular old fashioned rear diff like the one sitting under anybody's car, storage unit, whatever. For a definitive test, jack up one of the rear sides so ONE rear tire is off the ground. Spin the tire. If it spins freely, then it's an open diff, end of story. If it doesn't spin, or slowly starts gaining resistance, then it's either a clutch LSD or a viscous LSD (VLSD). The output to the rear end is via a clutch pack, there is no differential between the front and rear drivelines on that transmission. Here's a pic of a self-disassembled output clutch pack: FWIW, if there is a fuse in the FWD fuse holder, that very well may be the source of your noise. The owner's manual and the transmission shop manual very clearly state that you should only put a fuse in there for testing purposes, and under no circumstances should you drive with that fuse in place. The reason is because that clutch is constantly applied about 10%, and that applying fluid lubricates several bearings in that assmebly. Running without that lubricant will destroy the clutch pack and those bearings. Also FWIW, if you ask for advise, and someone clarifies the name of a component for you to help avoid confusion, you should thank them. It's not a word game, it's called a proper diagnosis. You should know that.

It sounds like a faulty EGR/EGR solenoid or related vacuum lines, or possibly a dirty MAF sensor.

I'd assume a bit softer ride, the Legacy tended to be sprung and valved softer than the Impreza. There may also be a slightly higher ride height, depending on what years and models.

Make sure the a/c condenser fins aren't all bent up and full of dirt or bugs, and also make sure the fans are going the right way. Otherwise, it sounds like my turbowagon. Every single hose on that thing popped, one at a time, just due to age.

^^^ Answer's been given. Most likely not an LSD, those had a tag on them that said "LSD".

OEM t-stats have a little bleed hole at the top, and any t-stat I install that doesn't have that hole gets a 1/16" hole drilled in it. This makes bleeding a breeze, and it doesn't have any effect on the operation of the thermostat.

With the heat there, the biggest thing I can recommend is to intercool it. The EA82T doesn't like high temps.

The bare case halves are about 36lbs together, according to the scrap guy. Complete engine is under 100lbs without the flywheel.

You should get full battery voltage for about three seconds with the key on, then it shuts off until you start cranking. If you have constant power, it's probably the fuel gauge line.

The hose was stuck to the tube that connects to the tank directly, right? Most cars have a little pocket around that tube from the manufacturing process that is nearly impossible to clean, so it collects all the road crud and salt, rotting the tank. I have fixed rotted tank seams (and one bullet hole) before with a product called Seal-All, one larger rotted spot I used the Seal-All like resin with fiberglass cloth.

I thought that if the first digit of the vin is 4, it's made in Japan. If it was made in the US, the first digit would be a 1. You should have a shop pull the ECM vin, and see if that matches. That will at least tell you if it's original, or a proper swap at the dealership. If the VIN doesn't match, they might be able to reflash it, otherwise it should be replaced with a proper one.

It's quite possible the tank itself is rusted there. I don't think you can see that part of the tank through the access, all I can see on mine is the fuel pump connections.

Did you change the caliper bracket as well, or just the backing plate?

Are you for real? More like what's described here, remote speaker and all: http://www.damouth.com/RVStuff/TurnBeep.shtml

I had a car once that someone had added a noisemaker to the flasher. It was obviously too loud for them, because they also taped a wad of napkin over it.

I usually use a long pry bar between the control arm and sub-frame. I know on one car I had to detach the swaybar.