4x4_Welder

Fuel filter, spark timing, clogged injector.

Valve stem seals are about the easiest part of the job. If you don't have a valve spring compressor, rent one. Get the big c-clamp style one since you'll have the heads off. Compress the spring, pull out the retainers, SLOWLY release the spring, pull off the old seal, slide on the new one, and put the spring and retainers back on. The procedure is given in a bit more detail in your manual.

5th gear is taller than -some- of the 4th gears. The earlier four speeds had a nearly direct fourth gear, from 83 on they had an overdrive fourth and a big jump from third. The d/r 5speed has the same (or very similar) first through fourth of the early transmissions, plus an overdrive on top of that. It's a worthwhile swap. On a side note, you damn well better take some pics of this thing. I have seen front engined 4x4 Beetles before, but not Subaru based ones.

Wow, I can't believe how expensive those are. The last mount I bought was for my F250 and it was only about $25 for a huge thing. You don't want solid mounts, as the flexing of the body will crack the bellhousing. What mount is bad, or are they all?

Pull the rear housing and clutch off it and seal in plastic, never know when you'll need that but you probably will.

It's a standard wire, not a resistance wire so length (within reason) shouldn't affect it. Many aftermarket sensors just have a wire pigtail anyways, so you have to add on you old connector.

Make sure that the sensor wire isn't melted against the exhaust. Most of the aftermarket replacement ones have way too long of a wire and it migrates towards the hot exhaust over time. On mine, I just clipped out the melted portion and used a solder-sleeve connector to put it back together. I still had some excess wire, so I zip tied that out of the way. Also check the intake boot, and the pcv lines and fittings. If any of these are cracked and loose, it can cause false readings from the MAF sensor, and the computer won't know what to do.

Here's a list of vehicles that use the same valve: http://shop.oreillyauto.com/ProductGuide.aspx?mfrcode=PTC&mfrpartnumber=PCV263

Which factory in China ripped off the design:confused: One thing to keep in mind is that if you do the H4 conversion you will burn out the switch and wiring if you don't also do the relay conversion. These bulbs draw a ton more power.

I find it odd that not once does he mention the gasket brand- To add to what others have said, OEM intake gaskets, and anti-seize the crap out of the bolts. While the MPFI engines don't have the same coolant passage configuration as the single-port engines, it's still a steel bolt from one piece of aluminum to another that does carry current at times.

They are seperated from the standards- "gens' usually refers to GL-series cars and later, so: 74-80 (81 for Brats) 1st gen 81-84 (89 for Brat and Hatch) 2nd gen 85-93 3rd gen 90-? 4th gen The EA82 OHC engine had it's own body style, generally referred to as the EA82 style, which continued as the Loyal for a couple years. The Legacy came out in 90 (or 91, not positive) and introduced the EJ series engines. Generally, when swapping parts, people just say Legacy, EA82, EJ, EA81 etc. It's simpler that way.

Yes, it contaminates the sensor and prevents it from actually sensing the exhaust, same as bad oil consumption. You might be able to burn it off over time, but while it's not reading it'll be running rich, and the sensor will get sooted up.

They came with sealer from the factory, use an anaerobic sealer and NOT red, orange, or blue RTV. Black and grey will get you a couple years service, the correct sealer is best though. Use the factory style reinforced o-rings, not regular rubber o-rings. Those will die a quick death, then you will lay awake at night hearing the guy you sold the car to a thousand miles away cursing you. Not that I ever did that while replacing inferior o-rings less than two weeks after changing timing belts...............

Idle air bypass is on top of the thermostat housing, PCV is screwed into the back of the intake. A shot of BG carb cleaner, or Seafoam will get clean up either one.

For the accessory drive belts, just -carefully- weave them through the fan. There is enough room between the front of the fan and the radiator. Just take extra care not to damage the radiator or fan blades.

That's what I did on mine. I hate taking stuff apart twice, the belts had last been changed at 140k, I was only at 165k, but better safe then sorry.

Not quite- On my turbowagon, it ran quieter than most EA82s I have seen, but dumped oil out of the pump. The mickey mouse gasket was shredded, and the shaft seal was spinning in it's bore. No TOD, but low oil pressure. Also, if it is leaking from the pump, then just get a reseal kit. Unless you have 300k on the thing, chances are the pump is just fine. It's best to get the timing covers off then see where the oil is actually coming from. If it's a seal, then chances are your belts are oil-soaked and should be replaced.

EA81s gum rings horribly, and also they only have valve seals on the intakes, not the exhausts. Either one can cause this sort of problem. The actual cause could vary depending on when it actually made the puff of smoke. If it was at the top of third, it's most likely the rings. If it was during the spin-down between third and fourth, then valve seals or rings.

I've got one from a Cat 3406E sitting in my storage...........

Did you check the intake boot? A leak there will cause problems, since the engine will be getting air the computer doesn't know about.

Having a turbowagon: The turbo adds complexity and stress to an already poorly designed engine. It does take a bit to spool the turbo from an idle, but once you're moving it's fine. As far as speed, the ramp-to-freeway (~35 to ~70) time is pretty decent, and the 4EAT seems to work pretty well with the engine. It's also fun to have a nondescript Japanese station wagon that'll walk away from the body-kit ricer crowd. I'd say buy it, drive it till it blows, THEN EJ it.

Not bad at all, but dude- PJs?

That chunk of hose is the high heat stuff, but I like to make sure it'll last. I tend to overbuild. I did loose the up-pipe heat shield when I put the flange back on it, so there is a fair amount of heat exposure right there.

Really big pic of a tiny little heat shield. Very easy to make, took about ten minutes, and a must have for those running an aftermarket up-pipe. Or those who had to remove heat shielding to weld the flange back on. I can't get a good pic of the old hose, it's just kinda black with a black hole in it.

You can get the joint from Schucks or Auto Zone (AZ one seems to be higher quality) cut the old one out, file the stake spots, press the new one in, then lightly tack the new joint in place. I did it on mine. I did screw up on the first one, and only trusted the retaining clips on the new joint. One flew off, and the cap came off. Luckily it didn't cause any permanent damage, and I was able to just replace the joint. Part number at autozone.com is 1-0430DL. It's a duralast part, but is made in Japan and looks exactly like the original. I'd second the pull the whole driveshaft and tape a cap on the output idea. Make sure you put in the FWD fuse.