4x4_Welder

Are the heater hoses connected to the heater, or is it bypassed?

Ought to get that -and- the EJ22, swap in that and a d/r 5speed, have some fun.......

I wonder if this is a group buy possibility? I'd be in for four or maybe five if the price was sane. Those would look really nice on the wagon. Downside though is that they are Chinese- Are they US DOT certified, and are they going to hold up or blow the center out on a hard corner? I do see a lot of copies of OEM wheels, especially Nissan and Toyota.

Most of the time, the problem is the contacts pull through the little insulator holder at the base of the socket. This piece is available by itself with pigtail wires attached, you can find it at any auto parts store.

I'm glad thy got rid of the old "squashed bug" license plates. In the first pic, is the one next to yours on pugs?

It's fine, just dump some block seal through it!

Make sure whatever hose you get is FOR FUEL INJECTION SYSTEMS. It's more expensive, but says right on it for fuel injection. The line from the tank to the pump should be ok, since it doesn't see any pressure.

Yes, but it's not hard.

Their website didn't have a listing for Boulder.

Not too bad, $61 and change, but he'd have to take it to Denver.

Yeah, but that used axle was also in his car and is the "failed" one. See how those race areas look? That doesn't look like rust, it looks like heat marks.

I'm in the middle of that exact repair right now. Very easy, get a tailhousing from a junkyard or someone on here. I think Turbone has one. Same for the shifter cable, and the driveshaft. Here's the pics of mine: I just jacked the car up and put it on stands, put a jack under the tranny, and pulled the exhaust, crossmember, and the piece still bolted to the tranny. Once the parts get here, I'll be throwing it all back together. If the yoke on the driveshaft isn't in bad shape, you can replace the u-joint with an EA81 one- the replacements are usually greasable. You will need to burn out the remains of the old joint, and file the staked spots so you can install the new caps. The internal snap rings should fit inside the yoke to hold the caps on the universal joint. If not, a small amount of weld will work without causing future problems. Be sure to grease at every oil change to prevent this from happening, once you replace the joints with greasable ones. On edit: Schucks has universal joints specifically for these cars now: http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=NEP&MfrPartNumber=10430&PartType=17&PTSet=A

So what exactly is wrong with that old axle? Looks to me like the problem is your wheel bearings- The race area on the axle should not be that color.

I have a 4EAT, awd. Same thing from late 80s to late 90s.

I can get you some pics once I get back under my turbo wagon. The parts should be here on Friday or Monday, so I'll jump under there and get some pics before I put the new rear housing on.

Could be worse, my Mazda MPV would kick on the check engine light at 80k for O2s service. To reset, you had to pull the instrument cluster (PITA), pull a screw (more of a PITA) and put it in the hole next to the one you pulled it from. Then you have to put the cluster back in place while using your third and fourth hands to reconnect the shift indicator- Mine was permanently on park.

I remember seeing somewhere on here that that isn't possible due to the case design.

Yup, I need something that can move the pile of snow at the end of my driveway, it's about 8ft deep now.

I should be able to swing that, just work some extra hours to make up for it. That brings me down to needing a t-case, and a bit of steel to build with. I'll have to see how things go this weekend, if I snag an 8n I've been eying, that'll wipe me out. Would be nice to have ~70hp instead of 23-25, though.

On my Hatch, I lost intermittent wipers, and just had slow cycling on all settings. Turned out, the little contact wipers that ride the gear under the cover were bent and shorted. Fixed that, put a little more grease in there under the cover, and it worked great the rest of the time the car lived.

This time of year? It's summer down there! Let me get some pics of my latest project, shoveling out the snow so I can lay under it on the lava rocks and have the wind blow snow up my rump roast.

My title also covers hijacks, as long as I make a wisecrack about it. I think you could count the non-wandering threads on here on one hand. It's all good, though, kinda laid back. As far as shipping, you could actually clean it really good, make sure it's drained, and take it to your favorite pack-n-ship type place. They can fedex it by just slapping a sticker on it. I think it weighs somewhere around 60-75lbs. The upside is that because it's winter, it might not be a bad idea to ship. I already had to can one road parts trip in the last month.

Aren't you a little high in the ranks to be worrying about getting in trouble?

If you drive, I could probably throw a few bucks your way. Otherwise, we might be able to meet at the halfway point.

I think the third gear issue stems from shifter bushings, then the grinding is from continued use with bad bushings. Been there, done that, planned a d/r 5speed swap. I would love to grab that transmission, especially if you have all the parts needed. Just need to figure out a way to get that from there to here.