4x4_Welder

Not bad, I've always been an X 1/9 fan. Is that a European model, or did you ditch the safety bumper/ lead weights?

The GL model name was carried over on the EA82 bodies- For a wagon or sedan, it'll have to be an 81-84, if it's a sedan it'll be 2wd though. For a Hatch or Brat, 81-89 usually does it. Wagons, RXs, and sedans 85 and later are EA82 cars. The EA81 bodied cars can be a DL or GL, DL might have an EA71 1.6l or an EA81 1.8l, but will be 2wd or at most single range 4x4. The GL will most likely have the EA81 1.8, and can be 2wd or dual range 4x4. Just to add to the confusion a bit............ Milesfox's economysuperstar page has some good info on all this stuff.

There should be a little plastic or metal cap covering the idle adjustment port. Knock this out, and there is an allen screw behind it.

The thing with that though, those cars didn't have to last for very long. Yes, they were pushed hard, but only for 1/2hr to 45minutes at a time. Some of the reasoning behind the detuned US models is the combination of low highway speed limits at the time, and expectations of high mileage. If a car theoretically never will go over 55, then you don't need a whole lot of power to move it, and you can turn it down a bit to get 300,000miles without an overhaul.

If you seriously want four lugs back, let me know. I'd like to go five lug on the new turbowagon, it has rear disks and everything.

My custom tools: And patience. Hook the nail in the back side of the pin, pull it towards you until the built up crud stops it, then tap it back in and pull again. Three or four tries and the pin is out. On edit: If you don't have a proper allen wrench for the plugs, then find a bolt head that fits, and weld it onto a socket. For the rears, the bellhousing comes off, and the holes for the pins are right there.

When I killed the 390 in my F100 (same thing, dropped valve), there was crap EVERYWHERE. I thought "key stock" when I saw that #3 piston as well, I do have to wonder if that played a part. The thing I'm having a bit of a time with is that you dropped an intake valve- I have never seen an intake drop, it's always the exhaust. I can see it getting wedged open and hitting the piston though, and the stem is obviously bent. That guide looks gone, as well as maybe a crack in the head too?

That would be a nice carb on a 2.3l in a Courier though. I happen to know of one that needs it's Craptachi chucked.......... (I think that's what it is, might be a Mikuni)

That's odd, at work we run greased bearings on the trailers, and I have yet to see a seal pop out. The hub caps get drilled and a zerk installed, they get grease every 10k at service time. If you want a very good grease, though, try the Almagard from Lubrication Engineers. No signs of wear at 100k on those trailer wheel bearings, running about 16000 on each axle.

Just drive it backwards, you'll be ok. If I didn't personally know of it's death, I'd swear that 2wd wagon used to be mine. Almost the same rust spots and everything, but your paint is better.

I see a dancing banana, where's the smiley for staying seated? This is the kind of info I was after, thanks guys. I'll probably throw on an intercooler once I have money. Got a pay cut today, so that'll probably be half past when hell freezes over. I do like that air-to-water one, though. Does that have it's own radiator as well, or does it just run off the existing cooling system?

I used zip ties on the braided stainless hoses I had on the Hatch. Didn't even leave a mark on them. I think I tied them to the trailing arms in a couple spots. I used one-piece hoses, got rid of the intermediate tube.

If the radiator is old and corroded, that's where I'd start. I've been warned about the OEM rads loosing their fins, so it'd just be the bare tubes and wouldn't cool properly. Also, make sure the radiator and a/c condenser are bug and mud free.

For a quick and dirty cable fix, pull it out as far as you can, find the approximate center of the bend, and use a 12-14mm box end wrench to unbend it. Work gradually, and very carefully, so as not to kink or overbend it. For the bracket, I would use a piece of round or square stock that will fit in the space (larger the better), and lay the flat side on an anvil or flat steel work surface. Hit the round/square stock with a hammer, and it'll flatten right back out. On edit again: That little caged needle bearing inside that clutch, take care of it. It's $145 from the dealer, and the number doesn't cross over to an NSK number. In fact, that whole number block where it's at is a reserved OEM block, not available aftermarket.

If you're using a gasket don't use any sealer. Maybe apply a thin layer of ATF-compatible grease if you think you might have to pull it apart again, but if the manufacturer doesn't say to use a sealer, put it in dry.

I do have one, somewhere, but I was kinda working on the assumption that he had a similar problem. The car I bought had done the same thing, I diag'ed it about two weeks before his failed.

It's hell if you don't give a general location........

I didn't realize the gasket was that readily available. I also realized I need a bearing as well, the needle bearing the nose of the output rides on. Don't know that they will have that one, but there are a couple good bearing shops around here that can cross a number. Does anybody have a pic of how the park pawl and spring fits in there? On edit: The cause is a seized u-joint. Since these joints usually run at about 0º, the lubricant doesn't get moved around, and the joint just solidifies. This isn't noticed until the driveshaft or transmission moves a little, like getting on it hard, or a mount letting go, then the joint breaks free and wobbles off center for a while. Since the parts are so light and rubber mounted, the vibration isn't overly noticeable, so it continues and forces the now completely dry joint to flex a little, building heat until it totally fails. When the driveshaft gets far enough off center, the weight of the whipping force is more than the case can handle, and the case fails. There's my latest crack at failure analysis.

As a rule, the less stress you place on an engine, the longer it will last. Less heat means less stress, right? I'm just trying to avoid blowing head gaskets or cracking heads. On a side note- Where in ID are you?

I tried searching, but didn't come up with anything specific, so here goes- I know the theory and operation of forced induction and why aftercooling is good. Now, would it be worth my time and effort to throw a newer top mount intercooler and scoop on this thing? I know people have done it, but is it really worth it, and does it extend the life of the EA82T noticeably? I plan on running this thing till I kill it, then it'll probably get an EJ (Or an EG if I see one )

I was just gonna use RTV -sparingly- on mine. I think that gasket is OEM only. BTW, that driveshaft doesn't look bad compared to mine, and I reused mine with a slip yoke from TBID. Partsamerica.com has the universal joint, you just need to file out the stake spots.

Tip for the future: Don't drive it around. Get it running, but don't announce it, maybe express some interest, but the price can only go up if it moves-

The Nissan similarity is one of the reasons why I tend to shy away from EA82s, up until I found one I couldn't pass up. I like unique vehicles, but ones that can be recognized as unique, not blend in so much. Maybe I'll put big rally lights on it.

Yeah, but they're a bit proud of their stuff. Plus the shipping is outrageous. I can't justify spending several hundred dollars on wheels, I'll put Pugs on long before then.

One lead will not show power since that is the ground, and by Ohm's law, the load on the circuit MUST consume all the voltage supplied to it. I would look between the power distribution and the switch, it sounds like a bad connection causing a lot of resistance, and when the load is connected, it doesn't allow enough power through to run it and the indicator light. Without the load, though, there is enough power to run the light.