4x4_Welder

This car has data streaming, do you have the right scanner for it? What are the readings for: CTS Open/Closed O2s rich/lean Fuel trim TPS volts Post up the results, I'm thinking the cts is off something else is making the computer richen it up.

I had one moron who would not leave me alone about the cat from my Hatch when I had the parts advertised on CL. The guy was worse than a scammer, wouldn't take the time to read the ad, just kept asking what the car was, whether I would ship the cat, if it was still in the car. I eventually just blocked his email address.

Mine was a GL, but non tilt. Might not be the same bit after all-

I didn't run into any funny bolts on tearing apart my Hatch- I have a known good cylinder/switch, new key, and a driver's side door cylinder that are up for the best offer-

Sounds about right- The Hatch and Brat didn't get the EA82 upgrade, and stayed basically the same until 89.

83+ was the upgraded assembly, according to this thread- http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=51861&highlight=pedal+support I got mine from Subaru direct since I couldn't find one in the junkyard. It was something like $70.

Never mind, I looked at the picture better.

PEDAL SUPPORT ASSEMBLY! Check out my photos. If your support looks like the one on the right, you need to replace it with the one on the left. Do a search for this, you will turn up my old thread on my 81 Hatch. It's a known weak part, the symptoms are exactly how you describe, and it's not a hard fix.

Hit over 7k in traffic, in 4low in wonderful Auburn trying to get from I5 north to the left hand lane of 18 west to make a left turn. Scared some people, and the car burned oil worse after that for a couple miles. My old Hatch, in RWD. I did blow a 390 when the motor mount broke, pinning the throttle wide open until it dropped a valve at about 6500rpm. Cracked the block, bent the rod, shattered the piston, and hydrolocked a cylinder on the other side bending that rod. Didn't trust the crank, so couldn't even save that. Somewhere I have pictures where you can see light through the crack in the block.

People like that make me ashamed of where I'm from. I guess the radiation affects all differently, though. It's like some perverted version of Fantastic Four, you get the rump roast, smartass, idiots, and enviro-nazis.

I have found that a teflon grease works great for sealing and keeping the bolts from seizing. I use Magnalube-G http://www.magnalube.com/ not only because it has a cool name, but because it works very well. Works great on exhaust bolts too!

So why was this thing in the junkyard? Was the body trashed?

Strange, all my head units have said to use 8ohm speakers, the speakers I use are 8ohm. My home speakers are 6ohm. On the Hatch, I fit Pioneer 5 1/4" 3way speakers in the doors. You loose the map pocket on the driver's door, but they fit just fine even with the windows all the way down. Never got to run them, though, since I ripped one apart about three hours after installing when I threw my toolbag in the passenger footwell.

It breaks them. Try applying about 30ft/lbs of torque(average pull on long 10mm wrench) and tap the intake with a hammer. The only way I have gotten the bolts out without breaking is to loosen them with the engine warm, almost at operating temperature.

They actually say in the article it's NOT a plastic car, but a real car.

I have had good luck with Ultra Gray, and with using Hi-Tack on the gasket. You could always get some neoprene gasket material to cut one out of, but you'd better bend over now to prepare for the cost.........

Shows the same thing on the partsamerica site. Might be it's supposed to be 4x4 AND turbo, or 4x4/Turbo 2wd? Just when you get it, make sure and measure the step to make sure it was turned properly. I got a Toyota flywheel turned once, it was supposed to be a .125" step, they ground it smooth. Slipped from the moment it was installed.

Check your pedal assembly as well, especially if the clutch cable adjustment is all the way tight. That year had a very weak mount where the cable mounts to the pedal support, and if the cable binds up or there is increased resistance in the clutch, it will bend the mount, and cause this exact problem. This is why I got my Hatch as cheap as I did. The fix is to order a pedal support assembly and clutch cable for an 83 Brat, about $100 from the dealer, and swap your pedals onto the new support. It's about a 45minute job, you don't have to take the column down or anything.

Yeah, but you might just fall through the east coast one

Hit send before I finished the post-

Samuari has a 1.3l and is underpowered for hauling itself, especially with big tires. They make up for that with a 4:1 low range. The Sidekick has a 1.6 SOHC

It's running rich right now. Is the choke opening all the way, and does the car get up to full operating temperature?

Ever driven a Caddy STS? 4.whatever v8 yanking around a heavy car by the nose. First time I drove one, I almost put it in the ditch. One thing a lot of people call torque steer is loss of traction on the front end. One of the top five reasons I hate FWD- when you stomp on it, and the tires take turns gripping the pavement or dirt, it yanks the wheel back and forth in a rather unpredictable way.

Rock-bottom easiest way is to drop it out the bottom, steering rack and all. Usually that's the only way to pull engines on compact fwd cars.

I always called them the "Missisbichy", got a few of my friends saying that now too. Having one didn't help that.