4x4_Welder

Let me rework my original post a bit- A seperate oiling system for the turbo is a good idea, since you could maintain higher flow and pressure to both the turbo and engine bearings. There are multi-stage oil pumps available, they are usually used with dry sump oiling systems, and often belt driven. The problem is, lose the belt, lose lubrication, and belts tend to pitch at higher rpms. If someone has an extra oil pump laying around, I'd like to see what kinds of mods you can make to the passages to increase oil flow. Also to see if a different higher-capacity filter could be fitted.

Why? It'd coke way faster than using the engine's oil. Besides, the PS pump is capable of way more pressure than the turbo needs, and can cause seal issues.

Up through the EA81s, the u-joints were replaceable, and just held in with clips. Starting with the EA82s, they were staked in. I just did the rear one on my Hatch, not hard. There is nothing to be critically lined up there, no splines, just put a mark on both yokes before taken apart to make sure it's together right and not 180º out, but that's not absolutely critical, either. It -may- cause a slight vibration if put together out of place, but not very likely.

It sounds like a plugged catalytic converter, a vacuum leak would tend to be more prevelant at idle/lower throttle settings.

The only thing that's more fun than doing that with a car is doing that with a full-size truck. Had some jackass pull out in front of my when I was hauling my "new" 69 to the shop I was renting, I slammed on the brakes, and the truck came up and over, and then rear-ended my hauling rig. I was busy keeping it out of the ditch while the guy took off. $1500 in damages between the two trucks.

Yeah, that looks about right.

Yeah, I run NGKs only in my Subes- I've only seen plugs that bad once, and that was in a Chevy Astro that was about ten years old at the time, with ~160k on it......... And original AC non-platinum plugs.

Partsamerica.com, that's the site for Schucks. I got a fel-pro set for my EA81 for something like $67. Print out the price list from the site, and bring it into Schucks, they will match the price there.

I'd just run two bars from the center above the diff, one to each of the blocks at the old torsion bar mounts to strengthen the whole assembly. The mount points are pretty weak, and they tend to bend on stock abused vehicles. I can only imagine the stresses on the mounts with that system. I would also replace the bushings with solid rubber or neoprene. I'd rather overbuild the crap out of it and not worry about it-

The lifetime warranty is usually from the installer, the $16 for the brake pads is nothing compared to the $$$$ for the labor to install them. I haven't seen the lifetime warranty clutches, though. They probably figure you'll sell the car before you need the warranty.

Yes, fusible links were one of many things the Japanese engineered into their cars to punish us for the atomic bomb. The ones on the Hatch are getting replaced with fuses.

If EA82 pistons are anything like the EA81 piston I am looking at right now, there is no space for a dish. The crown of the piston is pretty thin.

Either- #1- rotor is off 180º #2- Firing order is backwards My money is on the second one.

On an EA81, does anyone know what CFM the stock 2BBL is? I have an idea for an upgrade, but want to know how much of one it'll be.

They can handle 36s on a 4.3- powered Samauri, they should be able to handle a little more power with a smaller tire. Although, the problems with those axles aren't so much from hp snapping axleshafts, it's from big tires and hard landings snapping axleshafts. But yeah, independant would be cooler. I have a nice design based around a Ford 9" center section, might be a little wide for this though, it's designed for a fullsize.

On that light of a car, D35s or AMC 20 axles would probably handle 33's. If you were in the mood for straight axles, that is.

I wouldn't use the t-case "neutral" position. It's just hitting between the detents for hi and low, and if the selector moves while the car is in motion, it can cause a lot of damage to the transmission. Put the selector in FWD, and the shifter in neutral, and you will be fine.

The rear of my hatch has bolts holding the axles. Easier to replace than roll pins. Use Nyloc nuts to keep them from backing off.

Try dripping a couple drops oil oil down the distributor shaft. This worked for the one in my Hatch.

Are you sure they're cracks and not just casting imperfections? Many larger aluminum castings like bellhousings have swirl patterns to them from the aluminum cooling rapidly.

Depending on how long it sat, might be rust in the drums. It could also have a loose dust shield on the rear axle, rubbing the backing plate.

Huh? Mine hit 6k on a regular basis, still had power there, I usually shifted it at 5k. There is a guy over at fordsix.com who has a 300 that turns 8k. I was in the process of building a 300-6TT that would regularly see 7k, but unfortunetely all the parts have been lost (no thanks to my old landlord).

Dude! That was the last good looking Ford truck body style, until the first-gen Superdutys. The last girl who said something like that to me is now single, and I still have my trucks.

I tried posting earlier, but it didn't take- The 300-6 was available up until 96, in trucks up to F350 dualies. The smaller version, the 240-6 was available in cars up to 71 or 72, and trucks until 75. I had a very healthy 300-6 in an 84 F250 4x4, it had a 428cfm 2BBL on an Offey intake, fully bowl ported and polished 240 head, that along with flat top pistons put the c/r over 9.5:1, 2" duals, and a rather hot cam. It didn't break mounts, it snapped the three 7/16" grade 8 bolts holding the mounts to the block.

You can get a threaded insert for an O2s, weld it into the pipe, the thread the O2s into it. You can't just weld the sensor in, or just thread it into the thin pipe.