NV Zeno

I've had the same symptom on my wagon. Ended up being the inner CV joint on one of the front drive axles (I forget which side). Exactly as IdoSubaru described. My 2 bucks

Gonna have to dig out first...🤪

It sounds like a micro switch that may have slipped ever so slightly out of position..just enough to intermittently operate. I've been chasing a similar problem on one of my cars for years. I like the idea of the micro switch on the brake pedal as described above. Just my 2 bucks

I have found that the brighter, or higher-performance bulbs have much shorter lifespans. The Long Life bulbs may be more robust, but aren't as bright as the high performance stuff. To extend the lifespan of the main headlight bulbs (I've been using Sylvania Silverstar for decades) on my 2008 Forester, I disabled the DRL feature. My thinking is mostly along the lines of reducing the number of on/ off cycles, as described above. Also. Avoid handling the bulbs with bare fingers..the minute amount of your body's oil and fluids in your fingerprints is not compatible with the super hot glass bulb. I prefer the 5 mil Harbor Freight Nitrile gloves for this job. Just my 2 bucks

A flashing TPS light indicates a SYSTEM problem, not necessarily tire pressure. How old is your car? It is possible the TPS sensors in one (and eventually all) of your wheels has croaked or is weak. The batteries that operate them have a finite lifespan. Just my 2 bucks

Yea, my sis's kid lives in Dago. It's always pretty nice weather there. A really good old time family Italian joint in Old Downtown. Highly recommended.

It was a balmy 77 deg here in Tahoe yesterday..glad you're feeling better.

"Yeah, but's a DRY heat..."

Thanks for the update.

2008 forester X, 230,000: Aisin timing belt kit, alignment, rear drum brakes (they were original!).

Please keep us posted on your progress and location. Who knows what folks may be along your way!

If you're going to try that, please let the engine be warmed up before going to high RPM. Just my 2 bucks

That's a nice lookin 'Vair, is it as clean as the DL?

I believe that's Vinyl. Most upholstery shops should have a wide choice of colors and thicknesses. Just bring the old one with you to the upholsterer..there is associated hardware he needs to use.

Exactly what I was thinking. Happened to me on two separate, quite old Subarus.

It's been a lot of years since I lived in the SFO area, but I know there's a shop up in Santa Rosa that has done many car services and repairs for me, if you're in the North Bay. There is also a "Subaru Specialist" shop in South Lake Tahoe that's really good, and "Independent Auto" on Bergin Dr. in Reno (maybe its Sparks) are all really knowledgeable. My brain is kinda rusty about Bay area stuff, but I recall there was a shop in Sunnyvale with a good reputation, and another in Pleasanton. Can't remember the names, tho. Just my 2 bucks

Try replacing the fuel filter. Cheap and easy.

WooHOO!!

That's a fairly recently issued license plate. Someone owns that car, and went through the effort and expense of registering a carbureted car in California. It may be broken down, stolen then dumped there, or parked long term at that train station (as at an airport). Call your Sheriff, have them check it out. Just my 2 bucks.

Yep, about the same for my Acura, about 5 years ago . (Northern Nevada)

Please keep us up to date on this., thank you so far.

Not sure about how yours is configured as I have a SG Forester, but you may want to look into K&N filters. They have a 1" "nut" welded to the top of the filter, making it super easy to loosen with a simple ratchet/ extension setup. Just my 2 bucks

Paul, I ran 10W40 in my '83 EA81 after it hit about 100K, still runs to this day with about 400K. Mostly Quaker State back then. On my '96 EJ22 I ran mostly 10W30, but I got it with over 200K well maintained miles on it already, and AFAIK, it still runs good. Mostly Castrol, sometimes NAPA brand oil. On my present 2008 EJ25 with ~225K, I (and the previous owner) have been running Castrol 5W30, as recommended in the manual. I switched to "High Mileage" Castrol at about 210K. No engine issues.

Just my 2 bucks here. If you're feeling shake while on the gas and then shaking (mostly) stops when you let off, my experience has been the inner joint of one (or both in my case) of the CV axles is bad. Considering the low quality of aftermarket CV axles out there, this could be a high probability. Who knows how old and what "brand" your axles are? Other than that (as stated in earlier posts), wheel balance leaps to mind. NVZ

Air conditioning makes all the difference...