Uberoo

Why would I want to go back to stock? With the stock rear axles I broke on average of 1.5 axle cups every time I went offroad. In 3 weeks after completing the Tcase swap, still running a SPFI EA81 mind you, I broke 6 axle cups and went through my stockpile of axles almost overnight.Knock on wood but with my hybrid axles I haven't broken a rear axle in over a year and a half with the torque from an EJ22 flowing through the nissan Tcase to the 4.11 diffs spinning 31" tires. My suspension is binding up on full droop and I'm looking to get a bit more travel.I can't really stuff the tires because even with 8" of lift and some light fender clearancing the tires would rub if I stuffed them hard into the fenders.I am just wondering what is the cause of the downward bind. Idealy I would set the rear suspension to limit travel 1/2" before the CV axles bind up. My rear shocks currently have 1/2" more extension travel than the rear suspension is capable of articulating,so they are not binding the rear suspension. My shocks came from the back of a 90's ford explorer and are just about perfect for an 8" lift with no "shock lift mounts".They have almost the same specs as the stockers except they are 8" longer, and have 1" more travel.Best of all they can be found in any junkyard in america.

Fine. Are does anyone have any interior wiring diagrams?

You might be a race car driver if: You would take a rollcage over air conditioning if it were offered... I test drove one of the scions (because the subaru dealership didn't have a BRZ) and the salesman tried to sell me the radio and I told him I flat out don't care about the radio and how its ipod ready...Besides most people rip out factory radios and install better units anyway I told him I care about performance and driving fun,everything else are just gimmicks. I want a stateside striped down model-radio delete,wind up windows,vinyl carpet and seats,limited slip,no nanny controls,handling package,etc...and of course manual.

So I accidentally broke the turn signal stalk on my 81 DL hatch while offroading. So I went to pull and save and grabbed one from an 82.I get home and the connectors are the same but various wires are different colors and in different spots on the connector. So what are the differences in wireing and functionality between an 81 and 82 turn signal stalk? colors:Ry=red/yellow tracer.Rw=red/white tracer,Rb=red/black tracer,Rg=red/green,Gb=green/black,Gw=green/white,Gr=green/red,Gy=green/yellow,B=blacK, #=empty the 81 connector looks like this: | Ry Rw | # Rb Rg | | Gb Gw | Gr Gb Gy | The 82 connector looks like this: | B # | Ry Rw Rb | | Gb Gw | Gr Gb Gy | The bottom row is the same between the two but the top row is way different both on the connector and where they are soldered to on the switch. thanks in advance.

I run coverless on any EA82 and phase 1 EJ22 that I run here's why: Subaru's LEAK-that is a fact,with covers your timing belt gets to snake through the oil/coolant/dirt that the covers hold,drastically shortening their lifespan. When/If the belt/s do break it is alot less work to slap on another timing belt/s and get going again,useful if they break on the highway or offroad. Without covers it is super easy to check the condition of the belt/s, also because subarus leak it is alot easier to identify WHAT is leaking/failing around the front of the engine. Downsides: A little bit of surface rust and discoloration on some of the pulleys,but the car spends 95% of its time offroad with the belt at least partially submerged in water/mud.

Recently my rear diff on my EA81 based offroader siezed so I got a new diff and welded it up.In order to fix my axle breakage problem with the EJ22 and T case I made some hybrid rear axles.I used the inner DOJs from a 90-94 legacy on the EA81 axle shaft.So far its proven to be very strong, but due the DOJ cups being a 1/2 inch longer each the rear suspension doesn't have enough flex to install axles anymore,Instead I have to drop the diff to get enough room to put axles on.Anyway Even with the shocks unbolted and the CV axles not installed the rear suspension binds up and wont travel any further downwards.I am wondering what is the cause of that bind and if it could be cured because I would love to be able to drive up a stump or jack the rear end up off the ground to get enough clearance to install axles again.

I wouldn't mind something that extended the stock phase 1 ej22 ignition and fuel maps up past 7500 RPM.Having the computer kill the fun at only 6250 RPM sucks..

How much power are you planning on putting down?Usually with a turbo motor you build it to stock specs and then up the boost/fuel once its back together unless your going for mondo horsepower.

They used heim joints in the rear control arms and got a ton of flex.Upfront are some WRX coilovers. Intervesting.

Anyone know any specs on the car?

Holy carp you have alot of stuff back there

Those will hold a axle while your bouncing around?Learn something new everyday.So how to mount stub shafts or fluid bottles?

Cool thanks!

How have you all mounted the various spare parts and tools you bring along with you when you go wheeling?I mounted my spare tire and tool box in the hatch but things like spare axles get wrapped in a garbage bag and thrown under the passenger seat where they roll around the floor.My shovel is just thrown in for good measure...I would like to organize and mount everything so I don't get clobbered when stuff gets bouncing...It might be nice not to have to dig through the clutter on the floor to find something

How does the whole camping thing work up there anyway?Excuse my ignorance but I haven't been up there.Are the trails short enough that at the end of each day we return to a central campground, or would I need to pack 3 days worth of food and gear into the hatch?

In the junkyards I will use a breaker bar and hit the end of the breaker bar with a 4lb hammer.The shock loading tends to loosen up stuff pretty good.If that doesn't work I'll use as long of a cheater pipe as I can find slipped over the breaker bar and stand/jump on it.You do have the cotter pin out of the nut right?

Up until recently I was under the assumption that all automatic 89-94 AWD legacies had 4.11 gears.I need to replace the rear diff on my offroader because I grenaded it.So I thought I would go up to pull and save and grab one off an automatic legacy because the yards are littered with automatic legacies.However it was a different story when I got there.Every single auto legacy barring two 250K+ cars had 3.90 rear gears.Before that I had only seen 4.11 on automatic 1st gen legacies.So can anyone tell me if there is any rhyme or reason to which cars had 4.11's and which cars had 3.90's? Like I said up until recently I thought auto/turbo EA cars were 3.7,All other 4x4 EA stuff was 3.90,manual legacies were 3.90 and auto legacies were 4.11. Or did all of those auto have a 3.90 swapped in for some strange reason?

"until some dude in a ej'd rx7 comes at ya sideways in the snow. and that is what will happen with that particular vehicle". Reminds me of the time that I blitzed up a windy snow covered road in a 93 volvo 240 wagon with a welded rear diff.FWD cars couldn't make it up and even the 4wd trucks had problems.Of course every turn was full sideways action with the front bumper in the weeds...Although with that car "full sideways" meant about 30* to the road.It wouldn't go out any further than that,It would get to about 30* and just ride that angle all around. Oversteer when controlled is a wonderful thing. beside playing on gravel roads has helped with normal driving.Last winter I was driving from spokane back to lewiston and one of the corners was a bit greasier than the rest of the terrain.The rear end of my truck kicked out at 55 and I just countersteered and gradually lifted off the throttle and went right around the turn with no problems.Someone who didn't have any experience with skid recovery would have crashed,I'm not entirely sure why skid recovery isn't really practiced or taught in todays driver's ed but whatever.

unlike previous years This is more or less my sole focus for this summer.

Did I stumble upon a procrastinators meeting or something?I need it to be soon to light a fire under my tuckus and get my stuff done.How about the week BEFORE when we agreed on?

why not use the factory oil pump as the high pressure then get a single stage scavenge pump.Then just mount the oil tank higher than the factory oil pump and have it gravity feed into the inlet of the factory oil pump.A power steering pump is high pressure but at low volume so it wouldn't really work well.

My biggest problem with the stock setup is that when I don't use the washer the nozzles get plugged up and there is not much you can do to unplug them out on the trail. Does the late model setup use the hood mounted sprayers?

found this: http://performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?67210343-Dry-sump-construction

no prices.So I guess it follows the rule of if you have to ask, you can't afford.

You could gang up a couple of pumps and that would give you more flow and pressure.Or do what I'm going to do, mount a bilge bump in a 2-3 gallon bucket and run that to a 3/8 PVC pipe across the windshield with lots of holes drilled in it to wash away the mud.