Uberoo

I also swapped in my engine and got everything bundled up today,took forever to get the timing spot on and a few other things.In the morning I will tack weld a section of my exhaust in place(I'm changing it out after I get home because the 2" exhaust pipe that on it has got to GO.)Then add oil and hopefully she will be ready to go.Then after that the only things left to do will be to wire my trailer lights and pack.

It works about the same as putting extra washers or grinding disks behind the spiders to "lock" the diff.It marginal at best until the metal slurry it creates locks the diff up for real.

Thanks for searching but you necroed an old thread.The post above yours is dated the 22nd of October of 2007

no idea what it is to gravel/sand the roads but it isn't nearly as bad as the salt.Other than a few cracked windshields.Windows are much easier to replace compared to rust damage.Although my 82 subaru has a little bit of rust.The bottoms of the doors have some rust showing and the bottom edge of the side windows the paint is bubbling. then again the is 31 years old, and its been offroad at least two of those years(it started life as a FWD so it was nice and clean ) Nix that,Just found out idaho switched to mag cloride and regular salt. EPIC SAD FACE.

You guys just need to petition your local governments to stop using such caustic chemicals on the roads,that or move.It makes no sense to use some sort of snow remover that eats cars in only a couple of years.How bad can snow really be?We use gravel on our roads and rust is a rare thing that only happens to very old cars.

like it was said jack up the car and have an assistant turn the wheel back and forth to check the wear yourself.The tires don't even need to come off the ground,just enough for you to clearly see what is going on.have them turn the wheel as you look at each joint.Often a mechanic will say most parts are bad when something is worn that causes all of the suspension to move... I once had a mechanic tell more more or less every front suspension piece of my 82 datsun/nissan 200sx (with only 60K miles) was shot.Despite the fact that the car rode better and handled better than most anything I have driven,And I've driven alot of cars with worn out suspensions.

I was just looking at how much the front end dives and sways when I said that.Sweet I am right about something!!!doesn't happen all that often though.

First of a two part question: I am working on a phase 1 EJ22 and there is a drain tube in the oil pan at the very back of the engine.It is sealed to the block with an O ring and then it drops down into the the bottom of the oil pan.What is the purpose of that tube and its seal? 2nd question, what is the best way to replace the front cam seals?I know how to get to their location but how do I physically get them out of the head without gouging or marring the aluminum? Thanks in advance.This engine has 225K on it and it seems that every single seal on the thing was leaking. EDIT: I am also a bit of a dunce and I took off all the pulleys and idlers to clean them/paint them and I am not sure the correct order of them.Anyone have a picture of the front of the engine without covers so I can figure out where they all go?

Got the engine hoist back so the race is on.

I need to reseal the oil pan before I can stuff the engine in though

I think I am not going to let anyone borrow my tools ever again. I let my friend borrow my engine hoist "for a day" as he said,only that was a week and a half ago.Today I went and rented an engine hoist only to get it home and find out the jack was messed up and wouldn't hold any pressure.So unless I can get my engine hoist back or borrow one in a day or so I wont be going.At least I have 30 gallons of diesel and 15 gallons of gas at my house for when I need it.!!@!##%#^$^&%$&^^&*&(()*()!!!!!!@!!!!!!!!!!!! I am very pissed right now.

"not full throttle. Does Not Compute." WFO baby! in all seriousness I do know when to go fast and when to go slow..Today I need to get off my rump roast and install in engine,in the 100+* heat

I beg to differ the seals just like any other thing do get hard and not work anymore.Recently I took mine apart and flexed the seals and put it back together and it worked better.Then I got a legacy MC..

Get a non turbo AWD legacy in manual or automatic(shudder) and learn to drive it smooth.Driving it smooth leads to fast driving.Learn to make the slow car smooth (and fast) then get a fast car.Otherwise your just a knob with a fast car who will probably be slower than somebody driving a slow car fast. To put it in perspective about a year ago I was driving an 82 Datsun/Nissan 200SX(RWD economy car with 110 HP weighing 2250 LBS) on a nice curvy section of road when I came up to a new nissan 350Z driving pathetically slow.Sections to pass on that road were few and far in between so I waited patently for a chance to pass only to realize that the guy would speed up on the straights but I would effortlessly catch up to him in the corners. He was only fast because he was driving a fast car,On the other hand in the corners I was faster with my 30 year old econobox because I knew how to drive.

even with the oem t-stat when it hits water the temp drops like a stone.

The engine in my EA81 based off-roader is a phase 1 ej22 (90-94).Even though that engine is fairly reliable and bombproof I still have had several failures with it.The most recent failure was oil related-either the engine got starved of oil at high RPMs or the oil pump died.Anyway I am putting together a replacement engine and I was thinking I could address another potential failure point.As I mentioned before this engine goes in my offroader so it spends its time warming up and then getting submerged in water, then warming up,submerged,etc. Stock T-stat opens at 78*C/172.4*F and the engine currently runs 180-190, I am thinking a 160*F T-Stat would allow the engine to run at about 168-180*F so I am thinking a colder thermostat would help keep the engine just a little cooler and maybe lessen the thermal shock the engine goes through every time I go through a mud hole.I know a lower thermostat wont lower full load temps because a t-stat only sets the lower limit of operating temps and that if I am having a cooling problem a radiator cleaning might be in order.My problem is the engine is stuffed into an 81 hatch and I am already using a legacy radiator, space around the engine is a little tight and as a result it has always ran a little warmer than I would like so I am thinking a slightly cooler thermostat might help that a little bit.I know that when the engine is below operating temp it increases wear,uses more fuel,etc but engines in my offroader only seem to have a lifespan of about 1-1.5 years so anything I can do to extend that is welcome,because a year is a drop in the bucket for these engines under normal use but its an eternity in the offroader.

So when and where will everyone meet up on the 2nd?

Wait do you have a skidplate?If not the top item on your to-do list would be to buy or make one. Skidplates from EA series vehicles fit.

I'm in the process of putting my replacement engine for my offroader together.After that I need to re-wire my trailer and pack the wheel bearings on it.Then I will start rounding up fuel for the august trip.Things are going along nicely other than the dead engine in the first place...

never know until you try.

Wrong forum,and yes holy body roll batman!Your front swaybar bushing are probably shot or your front struts are failing.

Once the engine is at the point that detonation occurs, higher octane gas is a BANDAID not a CURE.Change the heat range of the plugs and/or pull back timing.If the detonation is so severe that it still persists after changing the plugs and the timing then run higher octane gas.The way some of the posts in this thread are it sounds like you guys would be perfectly happy running race gas on the street in your sub 200 HP engine.

If I borrow a friend truck and the engine is good and sometime while I am using the truck the engine blows,It is my fault and either my money buys an engine or my labor installs the engine, or both.

that still wont fix the poor flowing heads.

Not all EA engines are bad. I love the EA81.Its simple,reliable, durable, and takes well to supercharging.The problem is the boat anchor of an engine the EA82. Negligible power increase over an EA81 and piss poor reliability.The EA82 is prone to timing belt failure and headgasket failure while the EA81 and EJ is NOT.On an ea81 or EJ the headgasket rarely blows unless it was overheated.While the EJ has a timing belt, it works for at least 100K miles.The EA82 timing setup with its complexity and duel belts is very failure prone rarely living past 25K on a good day.The only good thing about an EA82 is its simple and robust SPFI system that can be easily adapted to an EA81.One of the biggest reasons I like the EJ series is their overabundance of power while still having excellent reliability. With an EJ engine passing or go up hills no longer is a floor it,wind the hell out of the little engine, and pray you have enough room to complete the maneuver kind of ordeal.Every time I tried to go up even the littlest of hills/mountains I would need to wind the EA out up past 4K to even attempt to stay with traffic.With an EJ22 I can keep it in a higher gear and just drive up those hills.I live in a town built on the side of hill,I have been here for 10 years and I have yet to find a spot I can park my car without it rolling away in neutral.Winding the piss out of engine everyday just to stay within a stones throw of traffic gets old fast. With that being said an EA81 with a weber carb is hard to beat for reliability.An EJ trails slightly because while its ignition system is completely electronic and has no moving parts to wear out, it has a timing belt that isn't as reliable as pushrods.Also some of those sensors may eventually fail and when that happens they arn't cheap. as for rebuilding an EA82, rebuild it to stock specs.If the rebuild process involves getting more power out the engine just swap in an EJ and be done as far as power and reliability goes.EA81 stuff can take the mods just you will pay alot to play.