Tosh

know where I can find a wiring diagram of that ?

I'm trying to wire in some gauges boost, oil pressure, and A/F. I'm looking for any suggestions on the best place to get wires into my engine bay and the best place to wire in the backlight for the gauges so that they are illuminated when my dash lights are on. Thanks guys.

I don't know about you guys but I would rather just get some Hella HID rallye 4000 Xenons they are around $500-600 each (per lamp) but then you get the choice of rocking them rally pod style which is totally badass.

Am I the only one who noticed his totally kick rump roast license plate ? I mean whats cooler then having BBQ on your plates ?

oh oh oh any info on how he did it ? thats exactly what I want/need I only have it set for stock boost and thats all I plan to be doing. I will be going snowboarding with it quite a bit I also have a narrowband o2 sensor which won't give me anything exact but should do ok as an idiot light.

My original plan was to run a TD04. I've got the turbo, up pipe, and down pipe all ready to go. But I seem to have run out of money in order to get an adequate fuel system for running the TD04. Do I have any other options ? could I safely run the VF11 on the stock fuel setup ? If I'm not going to run the TD04 I'd really like to use a turbo that would still use the same flanges so I wouldn't have to buy and weld up a new setup. Is there a cheap, $400 or less, way to supply the TD04 with adequate fuel so that it wont lean out and blow my motor up? Or an easy way I can say run 4 or 5 psi of boost on the turbo i.e. some kind of WG mod or retrofitting? any suggestions would be great I need to get the subaru up and running asap. if not I May have a TD04 turbo, up pipe with a TD04 flange welded on, and a HKS downpipe for sale. I've been looking at running megasquirt I've got a little experience with it. I'd like to find something cheaper that will just let me run my car without blowing it up.

I don't know if you guys know but ebay takes a cut of what you sell an item for I forget the actual % but it can be annoying if you sell lots of things on ebay. where as they can't or don't take a cut out of this S&H so the reason things are $1 and $60 for shipping is because the actual cost of the item is probably around $60 and the guy actually wants to get that much not $58.67.

ohh if Only that had a ECU and harness! I would have an EJ20T or TT

oh oh quick question if the little metal tab on the sensor is broken can I just replace that or do I need to go get a whole new unit?

are pads sticking to the rotor common ? I've never heard of this problem

Upgraded from my hand to the 5lb rubber mallet with much success. Caliper is off. Wow I had no idea brakes where this easy, or is it just on subarus? I think I found the source of my problem my brake pad was well it was "stuck" to my rotor. what should mechanically make the pad not be in contact with the rotor at all times? I'm thinking I should inspect whatever part does that. I'm looking at replacing my pads and rotors now just cause I got it all apart any recommendations on pads and rotors ? looks like Beck Arnley has vented rotors for around $50 for the front (I think I should replace them the surface is eh but everything else is pretty damn rusty. any one got any preference on brake pads ? brand or material wise. I might just be paranoid but I'd like to think brakes is an area I'd where money is well spent.

sweet thanks shawn! ok so I've got it pivioting on the top bracket. i STILL can't turn my hub and the pad is still firmly pressed ageist the disk. Any suggestions ?

no the leaver moves around just fine the brake pad is stuck to the disk.

I have a stuck e-brake on my passenger side to remove the caliper I need to take off the two 17mm bolts correct ? then it "should" just slide off ?

if they fit on an RX will they fit on a wagon ?

Ugg $300 brat! I've been looking for a super cheap brat! damn you for beating me to it.

this is kind of a side note but I picked up a old 80's CB radio from a garage sale for $3 the other day is there a way to test it out without having to buy a $70 antenna ? also where do you guys usually buy your antennas and CB related accessories ?

My current setup is stock turbo EA82 stock ea82 turbo injectors TD04 turbo (stock boost) WRX TMIC HKS 3" DP spider intake manifold I'm trying to figure out what pressure I should be running at with the stock injectors. I'm just trying to keep it from leaning out. I've been hearing 36psi is about what I need can anyone confirm that ? MSD sells a 36-45psi adjustable fuel pressure regulator for around $50 think that will work ? anyone have anything cheaper or that works better?

when I burned out my clutch there was this horrible clicking / metal on metal noise coming from the right front side of the car all my friends (who have FWD cars) said "yep thats a CV joint" so I'm trying to fix it now but for the life of me I can't get it to turn I have the whole front of the car off the ground and the drivers side turns just fine no problems but I can't for the life of me get the passenger cv joint to turn. Is my transmission shot or am I just doing something wrong ? The car is in neutral and the parking break is off.

hey how much would you charge for a custom full hood sticker (a sticker ruffly the size of a EA82 wagon hood) ?

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/80s/mick/decals/bratguy-decals.html

A friend of a friend just got me a HKS wrx DP for $120 I couldn't be happier

well first why do you want to do a motor swap ? you said you wanted more psi of boost but more boost doesn't mean more power (all the time) swaps are hard and expensive, but they can be worth it. Like Dr.RX said they can be really really complicated there is no manual on how to swap motors. A lot of it is just having the motor in and then figuring out how the heck your going to all your new custom sized lines to fit. By the fact that you don't know what a front clip is you probably have never done a motor swap before. A front clip is basically just the front half of the car they take a sawzall or whatever to the car just after the A pillar so it clears the dash and steering wheel. So unless you have some friends you can really count on to help you and by help I mean them do most of the work and you hand them tools and go get drinks then I would look into finding a shop who can do the swap for you.

ahhh shucks thanks I get plenty of airflow over the intercooler especially with my hood spacers but that really just helps out with overall engine temp. I'm sure I could improve efficiency if I put some kind of scoop on it. Although I rather like the look of the looks I get from guy's in WRX's/STI's when I'm tailgating them on the freeway onramp and they are looking over there shoulder with a "whats that on his hood" look.

Make sure you got the right nuts on the right side of the motor (right as in if your standing at the front bumper its on the right side) I thought I had all 4 off but I had undone an unnecessary one that I thought was the right one.