The Beast I Drive

The way I see it, either way there will have to be some wiring. To use the EJ cruise, I think you have to have a ECU that came with cruise? Im not sure, but I know the EJ CC plugs into the ECU for a signal. With the EA81 cruise attachment point being the gas pedal, you would not need the second throttle cable that the EJ cc uses, so it would look cleaner under the hood, but you would still need some kind of RPM signal from somewhere for the computer to work... I sold mine because even though it is nice to have, I just didnt need it... But if you can make it work, more power to ya! -Bill

what I had was dealer installed, not factory, but yeah, it should work with the EJ, nothing bolts to the engine. The only problem I see is the computer uses some kind of signal from the coil or tachometer, so some funky wiring might have to be done to make it work. I dont have this setup anymore, I sold it to a guy when I started building my Hatch into a mud rig... -Bill

It probably was the kit designed for the EA82 cars, but it had all the mounts to fit the EA81 Hatch... None of the mounting brackets fit any of my EA82 wagons... Also, the parts in the kit didnt match any of the parts on my Mom's 86 Wagon dealer-installed cruise setup... Anyway if you want cruise control I guess the bolt-on solution is find an 85+ EA81 car like a hatch or a Brat that has the dealer installed unit... -Bill

Its definitely an 86.... Interesting, Hopefully they will sell it to you cheap, would be a good rig to play around with after you ditch the turbo EA82... -Bill

The EA81 cruise control steup I had in my Hatch was actually pretty neat and compact, but it was a dealer-installed unit and the Hatch was an 86... It was just a vacuum ball under the hood by the relays, and a computer under the dash with a vacuum can with a chain that hooked to the gas pedal... No dual throttle cables or huge bulky boxes anywhere... -Bill

Ok, one thing I havent been able to figure out is how do you remove the end of the crank that the flywheel bolts on to? I can't figure it out, is it pressed on? I would like to think I could remove it while its still on the car, If I could it would make changing cams a million times easier.... I tried removing one from a post 80 EA71 block, but all I managed to do was mess up my puller.... -Bill

Well, you drain the fluid first, and make sure you have new fluid to put in when you put the cover back on... -Bill

Looks like a pair of stock EA82 electric fans, one turned on its side. With the EZ30 being so much shorter than the other H6s, you might be able to get away with moving the fans to the front of the radiator for the clearance... Assuming you don't have an AC condenser in the way... -Bill

I don't think those will work quite right, they look to have the standard 60 degree tapered seat, the pug lugs have like a 2 piece ball seat, they are kinda wierd, I had 8 at one point, but I sold them... Check this thread, it has the info about the adaptors and other info http://ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49131 -Bill

I say EA81 swap as well... Cheap, simple, reliable, easy swap. -Bill

Ive never been a fan of white cars, but this one has "the look" NAILED!! Absolutey beautiful, worth 16g easy now The dark charcoal split spoke 15" pugs really set of the pure white paint and the camo graphics just set it a notch above perfect As for the lugnuts, I remember there being a Pug lugnut sticky in the wanted section I think, and I believe someone found some little adaptor washers that have the ball seat like the pug lugnuts, so you can use any Mag lugnuts with the right thread pitch.... -Bill

Is there any way you could check to see if it has the 4.111 diff ratio? The early 4wds had 4.111.... Also, if it has the U-joint/slip-yoke style rear axles, Id like to know how much it would be for the trans, rear diff, axles, and rear wheel stub shafts. Thanks! -Bill

Like, engine blown, or fireball like mine? -Bill

Im a definite in, and Im bringin a buddy -Bill

Gen 1 Brats do not have the same torsion tube unit that the Gen 2s have, they are independent bars and are not connected like the Gen 2s. Gen 1 Brats have no factory height adjustments on the rear suspension at all, so if you want to lower them you must reclock the torsion bars or disable them and make custom mounts for coilovers. -Bill

Trust me, your Brat does NOT have rear struts. Those are shocks. Ive owned 7 Gen 1 Brats and a 76 4wd wagon, and have had these suspensions completely apart. There are 2 independent torsion bar assemblies in the rear, one on each side. What you are saying is a strut is a shock, someone may have put a coilover on it but the rear suspension of Gen 1 Brats is the independent torsion bars. Now, these are NOT height adjustable like the Gen 2 Brat torsion tube assembly, so the only way to lower the rig in the rear is to re-clock the bars, which entails removing the bolt that secures them in the tubes, pulling the bar out until the splines disengage, then rotating them in the direction you want to get the desired ride height. My 4wd wagon was lifted using this method, but like I said, it made the camber goofy so the inside mount was shimmed to correct it. -Bill

Damn you and your superbly inexpensive 2" lifting mechanisms!!!!! Looks great man -Bill

You Might be a redneck if you mask off your stickers and decals when you repaint your rig..... I love what the Brat has become, it truly is a real, full-size toy! -Bill

If it is a Gen 1 Brat, you can re-clock the torsion bars in the rear, they dont have struts like the EA82s. You might get a little negative camber when you do that too, but Im not sure, I know you get positive camber when they are re-clocked to lift them, and have to be shimmed to get it straight again... The fronts are a different story, you would have to come up with shorter struts and springs... EA82 struts DO fit in the Gen 1 knuckles, so theoretically you could modify Gen 1 or Gen 2 top hats to fit 2wd XT front struts, and that would lower the front..... -Bill

Today actually felt cooler for me here, but maybe its because I spent the better part of it behind a torch and a welder... It sucks to be at work though, our shop is filled with barrels of mint oil, so we have 2 choices. a) work outside, in the sun, in the dirt, making a huge mess and no shade or go home after lunch, and do as little as possible prior to that We opt for option B until our space gets cleaned out -Bill

How big is the Diesel? Im thinkin you could multiply the torque if you used 2 of them in line with each other, so the output of the crank on the 1st one coupes to the front of the crank on the second one, but if they are too big and too heavy then it wouldnt work too well... The deisel definitely has the torque where you need it most for off road, especially with larger tires -Bill

Those are the Jackman wheels, they are either 13" which was common, or 14 inch which are uber rare... If they are 13" rims, odds are the tires in that pic are 175/80 R13s, if they are 14" rims (which they could be cuz thats an advertising photo of a showroom model) then they are probably 175/70 R14s. You are going with 15x7 wheels correct? With the Toyota offset, I think you could get close to that look with 175/70 or 185/70 R15 tires, but you might end up with more of a street look than a beefy all terrain look... -Bill

Actually, if you look closely, you can see that they are indeed EA81 fenders. There were no EA82 parts on this car IIRC, I remember seeing the original pics and thread for it as well. Glad to know no one was injured when the ammo went off, +1 for fireproof safe... I think losing a house definitely overshadows losing a car... Usually the house is worth just a wee bit more than the automobile.... -Bill

Ill be headin out to the shop in a few minutes, Ill write down the size of the bit and post it here when I make it back. -Bill

Lemme guess, the Sedan that was *supposed* to end up with me took a dump onyour chest? Muahahahahahaha............ -Bill