daeron

Excellent, excellent description. nothing to add, just kudos.

that picture was a tease... any underbody shots or pictures of how its attached to frame?

"bad rod" IS occasionally a mis-diagnosed TOD, the hydraulic lash adjuster (lifter) tick... just to let you know... it would be worth firing up the motor to make sure its not something that simple. you never know what you might do with it later

have you run some seafoam thru it by feeding it into a vacuum line yet? that really is the most effective use of that stuff, as it penetrates the entire crankcase.. anywhere that sees crankcase vacuum anyhow... you let it soak into the carbon buildups for a few minutes and fire her up, rev/drive it thru all the nasty black smoke from the junk built up inside your engine, and voila its clean as a whistle. i keep asking about information on a repeat performance, as I have never done one shortly after another.. so I dont know if its worth it to treat again in short order or not, but i have NEVER seen a car get the treatment that didnt burn off a WHOLE lot of black stuff afterwards.. alot more than can be accounted for simply by the addition of the seafoam itself.

wasnt the ea81 a 1600 engine? or was that the ea71? have i been misshapen?

dont hesitate to wash it before you have it treated, because there is plenty of salt in the air pretty much anywhere in florida.. so much ocean, it rusts the cars out. the humidity doesnt help much, either. cleaning the underside of a car isnt fun

frank: do you have the FSM chunks on your computer? they go through the function and performance of each individual little component of your engine management/fuel injection, and lay out testing procedures for each... it is GREAT reading material just to help you understand the function of the car better, and also a priceless resource when it comes to troubleshooting... unlike the carbureted cars, (tuning of which is more of an art,) tweaking/tuning/repairing the FI system really is a science, and its NOT that hard to check EVERYTHING for proper function. PM me your email address and i can send two large portions of the FSM in pdf format to you, they cover vehicle specs, cooling, FI/Engine, and wiring. not the complete FSM but its two large chunks that float around here, i downloaded them from someones website. they are both about five megabytes i believe, so make sure i can email that large an attachment. (<10meg for both)

a common upgrade was my meaning.. good luck and be sure to post what you wind up using, it always helps the next guy.

I just finally looked at these photos and had to bump the thread... there is one picture, that is a head on shot, where the reflection of the topper makes the hood look like it has a MEAN hood scoop!!!! the color effects are awesome, too...

thats about what i thought, but since i didnt know i couldnt just say so. thanks.

I know exactly what the power supply in my PC is, its a transformer; I have rebuilt and repaired various transformers in the past. It is not outputting the same DC voltage at varying input voltages... it only supplies a steady flow of electrons when it is supplied a steady flow. "puts out a function of the power supplied"<-- I was trying not to be too long-winded.. as the input voltage/amperage varies, so does the output voltage, which is what is feeding your CPU and motherboard, and all peripherals. The UPS is much more than a battery, it is a point source stransformer that, inherent in its design, takes an input voltage, transforms it, buffers it, and puts out a steady, constant flow (amperage) at a steady, constant voltage. Hence, your power supply, and entire PC, is also getting.. a steady, constant (well, TWO of them, five and twelve, but who's counting) voltage.

bgd: i was merely recalling a thread you had posted when you painted your wheels, that was all. just jiving you a bit, turkey :-p (you gotta SASS it!)

yah.. whatever happened to your "final reveal" pics??? last time i visited your site they werent there... I just glued back on a strip of the trunk seal thats been tattered and flapping for two years now with old fashioned rubber cement. a little tricky, but if you know how to use the rubber cement right it seems to work OK.. we'll see how it holds up.

good tip, but i think using anti-seize compound might end up cheaper. i may be wrong, come to think of it i dont think ive ever actually PURCHASED either. large families are great (i have four brothers, a father, and an uncle and the only one who isnt a "car guy" is the professional mechanic:eek: ) also, what about using a thin layer/application of lightweight grease for the oil seals and o-rings to facilitate proper sealing when installing, and to hlep make the gasket stick? thats just something that ive always done when it was an option myself... any qualms?

well first off dont burn old gas in the engine. thats not good in and of itself. there are a couple of different ways to use seafoam, some use it as fuel additive and think it works great. the only method I have ever used it is easy. there are directions on the bottle, but ill post it here anyhow. you take a certain amount (the bottle tells you how to figure it) and have that ready in a small cup. remove a vacuum line that you will be able to use to suck the seafoam out of the cup, and plug it with your thum while someone else starts the engine (already hot i think.) Have them use enough throttle to keep the engine running while you take your thumb of the line and quickly put it into the cup, and suck all the seafoam up. keep throttle on the car, and recap the line with your thumb after a second or so to bring some air in (clear the seafoam out of the line and into the engine) it says for thirty seconds i think. Then let the car sit for five, ten minutes (again on the label.) Then, fire it up and drive around, or free rev it if you want.. but be prepared for MASSIVE AMOUNTS OF SMOKE as you burn through all the crap that the seafoam dissolved thru as it sat. I have never repeated treatment immediately or shortly after an initial treatment, so i dunno if its worth it to try or not. if anyone has tried that, i would love to hear whether it yielded results.

he is talking about replacing the battery cable terminal on an assembled unit, with the cable integral with his fusible link block. this would make it rather difficult to replace the cable itself, so he just did what was later described to fabricate a terminal to bolt onto a new wire lug on the cable.

i dont know the CC, but i know 280ZX turbo injectors are an upgrade.. so if you could get ahold of some of them it could be done :- ) the search function can be your friend

i think he meant that the PC would end up with "cleaner" power.. fewer surges and spikes in voltage and amperage etc etc, a cleaner sine wave to the alternating current. and if you say that cant make a computer run better, then you need to research your microprocessor function better.. because the machine is designed to run at 115VAC, 60hz. no more, no less. the power supply puts out a function of the power supplied, and the power going thru the circuitry/CPU/etc is affected by the differences in your line power. a UPS would serve as surge protector/spike elminator, as well as a capacitor and regulator of output power. they are more than just batteries, after all. people are selling devices for cleaning the power to plug your stereo and home theater into know for an arm and a leg... they tell you on the front exactly what voltage is being put out.

this is a thorough discussion of the relevant questions, so ill ask it for enlightenment as much as for posterity with the search feature.. what about ER27 or xt6 pistons? what c/r would they yield?

what about the FSM files? would subaru have any cause to come running rabidly after us for distributing that?

most of these wheels are milled, and then drilled to whatever bolt pattern is required. I have a thorty year old set of AR mags on my datsun that i have seen on countless different cars.. four, five, six lug... all different sizes. I actually just found the EXACT same AR mag (i mean i couldnt find any casting marks, but i KNOW they were cast in the same mold, or milled from the same die, whatever...) in a VW bolt pattern , in a VW, in the junkyard. full set actually.... the upshoot of this is that it shouldnt take any custom work beyond drilling balnk wheels for the proper bolt pattern. it might limit our selection of wheels to choose from, but since this is an expansion of our already highly limited selection..... who knows, they may even recognize the minimal market value inherent herein..... and bgd, i thought you said along time ago that steel rims were fine, as long as they had a fresh black paintjob??

be quiet, before i start screaming obscenities at you http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=64285&highlight=relay theres a link i found easy enough (since i used my name as a search string) that has some good info on relays you can use to switch your fan. a higher amperage relay than needed isnt really a problem, as long as you have a properly rated fuse inline with it, too.

email being sent. incidentally the ford fuel pump is probably a great swap for almost any FI automobile with an expensive pump... its WAY overkill but not in a manner that should cause a problem with a properly maintained fuel system, the pressure regulator just routes excess back to the tank. the second section includes alot of diagnostics on all the little FI components, too.. they can be exhausting but it never hurts to verify anything you might have cause to question.

i think there may be some sort of gentlemen's agreement (non gender-biased of course) to minimize the official connection between distribution and site. just to play it safe? maybe its unneeded, but thats the vibe i get.. i have it, and offer to email it if no one posts a link, same with the FSM chunks...it cannot be strictly legal, though, so we keep it under the table so to speak. do we need to worry about this? maybe not, but may as well give the benefit of the doubt to the USMB.

poke around a bit anyhow. you never know when you find that car that fits the bill....and im not living in the land of junkyard bliss, by ANY means... but i still see loyales in nice shape once in a while. nice enough that id be willing to use the weatherstripping off of them anyhow.. as long as it wasnt too pricey..