daeron

Just as the subject line states... Is it REALLY just as simple as adding a fused , constant-live switch, acting as a supplemental input to the power window relay? Basically, I am picturing a scenario where my windows are down and it starts pouring rain, and I do not happen to have my keys handy. Jump in, flip the switch, and hit the power window switches. I don't care if you think it is worth it or not (this was just one example scenario, I have thought that such a device would come in handy on numerous occasions now) Just, can it be done? Will I inadvertently power other circuits of the car by providing power to the relay? I mean, the normal power supply wire to the relay is going to be energized, but only as far back as a switch somewhere, right? OR, is the "switching" done by the ignition switch a ground switching? This is all coming about because it is HIGH time I did something about the SUPER SLOW power windows, and if I am gonna start mucking around in there I will probably just install one of the oodles of bosch relays I have around instead of trying to source a new (or JY) subaru relay... AND SO, if I am gonna muck around with all that, I would like to make this mod. Thanks in advance for your thoughts and information.

Okay, I have been thinking about doing this for a long LONG time now, and haven't been able to find a problem with it. Can I re-wire my headlights so that either A> the low beams stay on while the high beams are on, or.. B> I have an overriding switch that will turn the low beams on with the switch in "hi beam" position? Basically, I want to be able to achieve a state with my headlights thats not high beam only or low beam only, kinda like when the switch is in between the two. I know all about the relays and wiring involved, I have mocked it up in my mind a dozen times.. but I have always been afraid that maybe the circuit would not handle that much load, or that the lamps themselves would not cope well with all that heat (hence the use of an auxiliary over-riding switch..) I know that I might want to ... (as in, these are the questions I have about this "conversion") ... bypass the current switching capacities of the steering column headlight switch and use it to power a relay or two instead? .. re wire the headlight assemblies? .. find some way to help dissipate the excess heat in the headlamp assembly? What are YOUR thoughts on this matter? My low beams are great, my high beams are great.. The headlights are VERY well aligned (maybe just a TINY bit too high) BUT the combination of the two is really the best. I don't see any NEED for fog lights, if I can safely get both filaments to go on at the same time.

You need eyelids on the headlights, too! My buddy just got a set to put on his SRT4, and I've always thought they looked nice.. now I know how cheap and easy they are to install, so I am getting more enthusiastic about that look.

This is what my dad tries to tell me.. if you smack the SHTICK out of the SIDE of the boss in the steering knuckle (at right angle to the spline of the tie rod end, in a horizontal plane not a vertical) it is SUPPOSED to allow the ball joint/tie rod end to just pop out. I have NEVER had success with this, but I wan not born with a hammer in my hand, I was born with a Wrench. Thumbs get hit all the time doing carpentry, i cant hit a nail very good and at this point in my life, im just plain old afraid of the silly hammer, so I cant even get a good dead blow anymore.. Turning your thumbs into hamburger meat once or twice (or 3450985683 times) with a hammer will make you a little afraid. I just went to my local auto parts chain and picked up a super cheap picklefork; now I never have to worry about it again.

go to harbor freight now and get a ratcheting 10 mm box wrench... it REALLY makes life much much easier.... and its cheap, like 10 bucks for a five piece set of the cheap ones.

fiberglass is SUPER EASY to work with... I have never gotten over my intimidation of sheetmetal/riveting repairs (its mostly a fear that I wont be able to shape the sheetmetal right) but fiberglass is a piece of cake. I replaced the rusted out floorboard in my Z with fiberglass, and to quote my old man "it is strong enough that (if you could) you could jump up and down on it." Cry, yes.. but cry by way of letting the demons out, not by way of doing the demons homage. This is not a RIP BUCKY, its just .. a lump Raise your hand if you have a dog who has developed a benign fatty tumor somewhere at some point, LONG BEFORE the dogs health went downhill! *raises hand*

can you do a leak-down test on the engine? the information from one of those can help you decide exactly how far to go in an engine revival project... sometimes it might tell you that new valve seals, or piston rings, or headgaskets would in fact, be in order when nothing else can.

I have always thought that this wagon was BEGGING for body color eyelids on the headlights

this car was ziebarted, florida car since sold new in orlando. see what good it typically does?

Bump! sticky??!?

that was a new one on me, funny

I have never used a jumper wire... I use a screwdriver, and simply bridge between the starter end of the positive battery cable, and the solenoid terminal. works every time, and it is ALMOST as easy as using my key and relay

Subaru Pizza-Wagen FOR TEH WIN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! i used to sling pies in my soob, (there are a couple of us who have done it) had one single high school delivery that was split between two lunch shifts, total of like 96 pizzas... BUT it was two trips, just so that it was timed properly. did the pizza train tip you well???

Subaru Brat... SOOOOO hot!! want to touch the tailgate!!!

what in the hell is that big black plastic thing on the front of it??!?!!??! Soccer ball, in the second picture, FTW!!

All *I* can say is, that this is the WORST thing I have heard about the parts bin, and reference GD's comment about "how they get their reputation" above.

I want to clarify something here, a non turbo MPFI ECU may be less simple and more expensive, even for a statesider, to obtain.. BUT we DO at least have a chance to see one in a junkyard. If I were you, I would make a post, with a subject of "Are you in North America? do you go to junkyards?" begging for someone to find and ship you an ECU. Even though it is a "parts wanted" post, I think that your current situation would justify posting it in the "older gen" tech forum, where it will get more views. Are you the German who just last summer used a turbo ECU in his non turbo car to get it home??????? if NOT, then I have you confused with another german member who swapped turbo/non turbo ECUS (i forget whether his car was turbo or the ECU he installed was a Turbo) with no problems a year or so ago.. SO, if you are NOT the person I am thinking of then there is a decent vote from one of your own countrymen on this forum that says that the turbo/non turbo ECU question is urrelevant.

Suggestion.. remove your current thermostat before flushing your radiator. You never know when you might be holding particles and chunks behind your thermostat even though you THINK you are flushing your block out.

I second GD's respopnse, and add my relay write up. The relay also doubles as a remote starter switch for one person timing adjustment, spark checking, fuel pressure checking, fuel Injector testing, compression testing, et cetera... The starter clicky problem has a number of causes; first and cheapest, is to clean your battery cables. If you want to be thorough as can be about it, install a relay to bypass potential weak connections within the keyswitch circuit; install new battery cables; install a redundant ground strap or two or three; and buy a new battery. A pushbutton switch is just as good as a relay, depending on what you are anal about.. but whatever you decide to do to fix it, take your time isolating the problem to make sure you have fixed it well. Sometimes all of the above are required to finally put the starter issue to bed... Mine was taken care of by a junkyard starter, and some junkyard relay equipment, for the low low price of $20 and about six total hours of my time; I also learned ALOT in those six hours that will stand me in good stead for the rest of my automotive lifetime. Most of it is in that write-up. hope this helps.

ach, double post.

wow, i think i read your "brat wanted" ad on tampa CL last night, heh.. EA-82 is not worth messing with, just pick up an EJ. I regularly check craigslist in all florida cities for "subaru" and often find wrecked legacies for under a grand.. i think theres a wrecked impreza in your area of the state somewhere for about 500 right now. My point is, EJ donor vehicles ARE easy to come by here; something that the older generation vehicles are NOT. Good luck in your search, if i find a BRAT in the state I will post in this thread or PM you.

you can go to modernmotorsports.com and check out the rear disc brake packages for the 70-78 Z cars for inspiration, and also visit http://www.hybridZ.org, go to the brake forum, and search through the stickies regarding rear brakes. should provide plenty of links and photos for inspiration; the project should be easily doable. anyone have a foto of the rear stub axles bare (ie without brake setup installed?)

probably... you have got a fighting chance to say the least. I wouldnt be losing sleep over it if the 12 bucks for an oil change is pinching the pocket right now; just replace it with a better filter and you should be okay. You never know if this is the filter thats gonna fail until it fails; if you want to be reactive change the filter but you have about a 99% chance that you are okay waiting.

Low compression in a cylinder can have a cause in one of three key sealing areas: the piston rings, which seal the bottom of the combustion chamber; the Valves, which seal the intake and exhaust, and thereby the "ceiling" of the combustion chamber; and the head gasket which seals the perimeter of the combustion chamber. The possibilities inherent in extremely low compression in one cylinder only are: (in no order) blown headgasket, sticking valve(s), blown rings, or physical damage to the piston/cylinder wall. Most experience with these engines shows the bottom ends (pistons, blocks, crankshafts, etc) are fairly bulletproof. For a non turbo application, chances are that most of this is fine. (Still not impossible, but lets put any major bad diagnosis on hold until we have ruled out the simpler stuff) Usually a headgasket blown badly enough to cause THAT much compression loss would show SOME sort of other symptoms.. have you taken the radiator cap off with the engine running, and looked for bubbles? Bubbles in the cooling system can indicate blown HG, because the cylinder is pushing what should be cylinder compression into the radiator. Water/oil mixing, evidence of oil or water being burnt, are all other things pointing towards head gasket. Now, to differentiate further, your next step is to use a leak down tester. This is a device that applies pressurized air to the cylinder. You can listen to the exhaust and the intake, to see if you hear air blowing out either of those (indicating a stuck valve) or listen to the oil dipstick tube, for bubbling (indicating blown HG or bad rings) or pop the rad cap off and check for bubbling there (blown HG again) If the rings are bad, compression numbers should go up by squirting a few ounces of motor oil into the cylinder's spark plug hole just before re testing the compression. That SHOULD cover most of what you need, feel free to ask any questions. Good luck, hope this helps.

I presume that its an SPFI, since you said "Its something that you would cure on a normal carb by adjusting the idle screw." Check all spark plug wires, double check the rotor retaining screw, make sure none of the plugs are loose, and MAYBE try gapping them a LITTLE bit tighter. 0.44 is the top side of the range specified, the bottom end is I believe 0.36" (whatever the decimal point is)