ryry46d9

why not pull a jerry and mod a hatch (hatchbrat) seen his and loved it

love the bus!

are you useing photobucket?

GOOD IDEA :clap: :clap: :clap:

go to the store and pick up a red scotchbright pad http://paintworldinc.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=3M.7447 just work your magic on the pipe (it doesn't take much) then slip that hose right on

i use to have a 81' jetta with that set up i thought is was cool a buddy had a rabit same year but had a small pin-hole it the boot on top and that thing would idle but couldn't handle a load (took a few day to find the hole) other then that i like the way it looks i would like to see the setup pics when your done (trying to picture the injector setup) what block are you doing this to?

if you girls are done ........................ you stated "Also, I took driver side rear apart, taking hub off- all looked normal no chunks missing, and yet again eveidence of hardly any grease." drain your rear diff and fill it back up with what ever weight is rated for your weather im betting since the hubs where dry, that the diff haven't bein changed in years !!! its getting cold the viscostary its probley broke down and for my experience you will get that "winter buzzin" intill the grease/oil gets up to temp you old farts got years on me and not once did i see that talked about this is supposed to be a place to help each other out, not to have a cock fight!!! resolve it between your self or STFU ryry

funny you dring that up my sister just gave me a 87' accord and my hatch is going to scrap also ryry

86 hatch had to run 92 or it would run like it looks and ping under a good hard load around 260 miles per tank average ohh 1800cc NO-A/C NO-P/S 13" tires 4 speed D/R one time i drove to spokane from kent and forgot to fill up in cheany (?) town before Spokane any ways the gas gage was in the BLACK and i got 296 miles out of that tank and im sure a little dirt ryry

i taking this as its the inside boot? i didnt have a boot problem but i did have a joint problem infact it was both at the same time some how the driver side motor mount boilts fell out and the motor was binding the joint look over the next one good before leaving the store try to lightly slide it off you got a life time waranty? in time you will have it down doing it in thier parking lot Kragen/shucks does sale "CHEAP PARTS" or as i used to say competivly priced when i worked for al's auto ,but rember your getting what you payed for got a NAPA around? got both mine for $125 exchanged and have put then through some painfull moments

WOW i think i just learnned too much for one night zzz ryry

it does it all the time when it rains? my moms boyfriend was working on a customers car for almost 2 weeks (even drove it home couple of nights trying to find out what was going on) every time they came to his shop it was fine and showed no codes turned out when it rained the map senser would freak out telling the computer lies dont rember what caused it but i think it was a tare in the freash air line probley not your case but i thought i would share this crazy case ryry zzz

i have thought about it in the pasted but never have i have never heard any one getting in trobele over it btw i wouldn't track down any owners of vechiales you bought from the police actions they might not be to happy that you just got thier ride (just a thought) good luck in your hunt ryry

after it is warm will it idle? and also when the choke is on what are the RPM's ?

do you got a towdolly? i got a 86 hatch i'll donate but its over here in pasco great parts car needs pass head

OR go the lazy way and get a 1" 12" woofers (or in one of my buddys case in a wagon:slobber: 6 12" woofers ) replace the dash,back,and/or door speakers with something bigger/better (ran off an AMP) and BLAM your done i used to have 4 12" sub-woofers 2 10" sub-woofers and 2 8" mid-bass taking up the WHOLE back of my hatch (if i ever get that back window fix im doing it again:banana: ) and that my friend is how you kill the road noise

CRAZY i have never had that problem when upgrading the charging system for the car audio upgrade i run: 4gage from the block (close to the alt.) to the firewall/fender 4gage from the block to the battery 4gage from the fender to the battery (old man told me about the keep killing the battery in a 64 mecury i has) 4gage off the back of the alt (keeping the factory wire intact) to the battery 4gage to the starter to the batery also i have bein know to run another 4gage off the starter bolt to the fender/firewall and yes this is over kill, but i have found that your light have a fighting chance if your not trying to charge two battery's with a 12gage/14gage wire i have never had any ground loops, alt noises elt. ,also running stiffing capp's help the lights when the bass hits on my honda i plummed in a delco 65amp on top of the stock 55amp NIP. no head light problem and alway had 15.5V ready to go (amps run so much cooler ver. 13.1V) also monster cable makes some realy good battery post conectors an ever-day joe could get away with 8gage but im not a every day-joe edit: i was raised with the idea the better the ground the cleaner the output and addin cables to the manifolds dont sound like a good idea in the first place

i have never seen a brat with that roll bar cover and whats up with the woody on page 2 WHY didnt they do the front fenders it almost gave me flash backs of the pinto

ok that was a fast answer LOL

i thought 4 grand was normal driving RPM's any ways how many miles on the new water pump ?? i dont think the weep hole could make a puddle under the car that fast but lets say ummmmmmmmmm did you make sure the clams where on tight? ( dont ask LOL )

YES GET IT OUT OF IMPOUND ASAP my wife layed her van on its side (long story) but it was to avoid a wreak went to the wreakers over the weekend (she told me couldn't drive it) well the insurance company wouldnt cover the claim and we had to pull $286 (?) out of are rump roast :-\ just my two cents ryry

if was told right my 86' hach has the same size gass right and should work right?

http://www.crossrams.com/brownbrat/brat.html

and it still has the ashtray WOW http://www.crossrams.com/turbobrat/cwdata/MVC-051L.html

all i use is the orange permatex on every thing but head,intake,carb trick is to let it set up for 15-20MIN then fingertighten the boilts let set for another 30min or so then tork as needed but if your like me and didnt get the pushrod lined up the first time after doing the headgaskets its a pain to take off the "tin" i go with 1/8-1/4" bead that way even if the tin is warped you still get a good seal DO YOUR SELF A FLAVOR let it set up !!!!!!! i have seen too many people "goop" it on then slam it on and that could/will spooge out not only outside your block but inside as well witch i one of my buddys case in a VW it worked its way in to the lifters blocking the oil and killed the motor about 150 miles later away from his home one last thing on my EA81 my oil filter adapter plate leaks witch kind of sounds like what your talking about might want to look thier also i didnt find out where my leak was till i presher washed the block good luck in your hunt ryry