porcupine73

Oh ok, well that's cool that it helped. You should be fine in this case. Behind that rubber flex boot thingy is the piston, and inside that about 1/3" inch is the piston seal. Unlikely any pb blaster got into the brake fluid. On my '94 I had a sticky caliper. I pounded the piston out with a punch through the caliper bolt hole. It was all corroded and stuff well into the piston beyond the seal. I cleaned it up with extra fine emery cloth, cleaned with brake clean, poured fresh brake fluid over it, and reassembled with the reseal kit.

Oh sorry man, I though you removed the brake hose banjo and shot it in there. At least that's what I did with kroil. Fortunately I had a caliper reseal kit onhand. The brake fluid does to a degree circulate. There's fluid going into the caliper when applying the brake. And fluid leaving the caliper when the pads get knocked back by the rotor.

Hm..maybe it's the crankshaft sprocket that's off. I noted several marks on my 2.5L. I had to pay careful attention to the diagram in the service manual ot make sure I had the right one..... The weird thing is the backfire, which makes me think maybe the intake valves are not completely closed when the cylinder fires.

Oh good point. You don't want any contamination in the brake system.

Awesome! I'm going to have to try it. Normally I use kroil.

This is the piece where the strut mounts with the studs to the body. Sometimes they rust out and rattle around. Could be other suspension issues too.

Hi. I have an '00obw too. DTC P1490 - THERMOSTAT MALFUNCTION Thermostat stuck open Now this may seem odd, but the first question the procedure asks is.... Are there any other codes present as well? Check radiator fan circuit. Does radiator fan continuously rotate for more than 3 minutes during idling? If yes, repair raidator fan circuit. If no, replace thermostat. Highly suggest new OEM thermostat and new gasket and new coolant - use Subaru OEM coolant or flush several times first with distilled water before switching to something else such as Zerex G-05. edit: don't forget the coolant conditioner/stop leak/holts radweld

Cool. Maybe it also had to do with resetting the ECU? I saw an article on EndWrench, forgot the years impacted, where if the battery was previously disconnected for only a short period of time and reconnected it could have a poor idle?

Sounds like maybe a strut mount. Otherwise check for loose components and give the rear suspension a good shake down, no broken springs, etc

It sounds like your timing is off. I'm not sure about the 1.8, but the 2.5 and I think the 2.2 have various markings on the cam sprockets. There are arrows, which I think is piston position - this is *not* the mark to use for lining up timing. There are dashes also which I think are the timing alignment marks. Otherwise try compression test and see what you get.

Oil FIlters: H-4 Versus H-6 Engines Also check out Filters: Excluding Undesirables

Hm...yah I wasn't sure what you meant by first and second filter?

Were they maybe not closing all the way or something stuck on the seats or something?

Depends on what you're trying to do. If you want the outlets hot all the time, just wire them directly to the battery with a fuse(s) as close to the battery as possible. You can tap into the hot wire for the existing outlet, but then all the outlets will share the same fuse; probably 10A or maybe 15A. So you can't run some power hungry inverter and a TV and an igloo cooler all at once.

I think if you cut it off the shank of the bolt will be stuck in the hole right? A couple ideas: try to get the bolt to turn like impact wrench or whatever while soaking it with your choice penetrating oil, beeswax, etc. Maybe beat on the other end while turning it. Also if you can somehow get a slide hammer on it that might pull it out.

They are smaller, but they have more media surface area. Plus they may very well be using synthetic/glass filter media rather than the old tech cellulose. The newer media is more efficient as well. Yes if you get a good glass media filter that has more filter surface area you could use it longer. Generally the glass media filters are recommended for 1 year max; cellulose 3-6 months max (because gasoline in the oil will deteroriate the media). There's an article on EndWrench about this. Like the H6 filter can be used on the H4 but not the other way around. If you want i can see if I can find it.

The MAF is mass air flow sensor. If yours has one you'll see it in the intake tube shortly after the air filter. It has a heated wire and a sensor wire and tell the ECU the mass of air flowing into the engine. Not all Suby's have MAF's; Subaru and other makers switched on and off to other methods including using a MAP (manifold absolute pressure) since it's less fussy than a MAF and I don't know it might be cheaper. Anyway, sometimes oiled air filters can 'release' some of their oil into the air intake stream and it builds up on the MAF. Then this oil kind of acts like an insulator to the heater and sensor wires and results in an erroneous reading. This can happen over time as small amounts of oil get released. You could try a MAF cleaner, but please don't touch the wires with a qtip or anything. However, the air filter may not be causing your problem. If you can get that code read (hopefully it's one that got stored in history if the CEL isn't on right now) that would probably go a long way to figuring out the problem. There are lots of other things that could cause these symptoms.

Do you at least here a click? Does it work if you hit the starter with a hammer? Sometimes the contacts go bad. Sometimes it's other issues like neutral/park/clutch switch etc.

Does your vehicle have a MAF? Sometimes the oil from oiled air filters will get on the maf wires and cause issues.

Provided there aren't other issues with the engine that could be causing knock, it shouldn't harm to relocate it. I wrapped mine in bubble wrap and grounded it with a big alligator clip about 8 months ago and the car is running great. I've been using premium to help reduce chance of knock due to fuel octane being too low. Sometimes combustion chambers and stuff get all coked and carboned up thus effectively increasing the compression ratio. There was an article about this on EndWrench I think. This can cause slight knocking resulting in retarded timing. If you have a scangauge, you could hook that up and see what kind of retard you're getting when you have the issue. Oh, does your knock sensor have a crack in it like this pic (this item should look familiar to one of the posters in this thread...)

I haven't heard of the 'half moons'. My '00obw 2.5L I'm pretty sure doesn't have the cam cap o-rings, at least I couldn't find them. I know both my '94 and '96 2.2L's have the cam cap o-rings; the RH one looked like this on the '94. It was leaking and the old o-ring was rock hard. The new one was nice and supple:

If you do decide to go with just the aftermarket cooler and bypass the in-radiator cooler, go with a big enough cooler to take the load. Just as an example, Perma-cools instructions tell you what their minimum size cooler is for various kinds of vehicles if you desire to bypass the in-tank cooler. Nobody wants coolant in their ATF. The in-tank cooler to a degree acts like a temperature buffer. It can help warm the ATF when it's cold and cool it when it's hot. Also, there is an OEM Subaru ATF cooler kit available if you want to go that route.

That's going to be a tough one. It's hard to find a good transmission shop. I would avoid aamco and those kind of places. Maybe someone in your area knows a good place. If you can find a known good used one that might be a way to go, though I know you already had one put in....letting those places do work on the internals is questionable unless they're a good solid reputable place.

Hi ElectricSunset and welcome. Yes, air in the system can cause the temp gauge to show hot when the engine doesn't seem hot. The coolant temp sensors are in the coolant pipe near the top of the engine. Typically this is an area where air in the system may rise into. Depending on how much air you have in there, it can get very hot as it contacts the heads, etc. Replace radiator cap. It isn't that expensive and these do build up gunk under the parts in the top and it doesn't seal correctly sometimes. Make sure radiator neck where the cap goes on is clean. For a few trips when the engine is cold, try checking the coolant level before each trip by removing the radiator cap. If there is any leakage anywhere in the system, the vehicle can't pull coolant from the overflow tank back into the system. Also it can be somewhat easy if you're not careful to trap air in these systems. There are many posts on here about how to refill the coolant and get the air pockets out. If the coolant was changed not too long before this hot temp gauge issue, it could be air pocket in system. Oh yah, if there is exhaust blowing into the coolant this could happen too.

Sometimes if the contacts are just starting to go bad, if you give the starter a few taps with a hammer (use your small hammer - save the big hammer in case it still doesn't work). If that works, could be the contacts as mentioned.