porcupine73

Skip had a failure where the single row bearing was in the spot for the double row bearing. Subaru now ships the double row bearing for both positions. Not sure what some of the aftermarket kits are using. Someone posted a pic of a kit recently and it looked to me like both smooth idlers were single row but was hard to tell.

Ok yes here it was Crankshaft and Camshaft Reluctors http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/Crankshaft.pdf

The water pump you got has the nozzle for the bypass return though doesn't it? I believe that's how that oil cooler plumbs in, one line goes from the heater core and throttle bypass return and the other goes to the little nozzle on the water pump, replacign that short length of hose that is normally there?

I'm pretty sure there was a note on endwrench somewhere about this, the cam sprockets being different and the ECU doesn't like it if it doesn't see the expected pattern from the cam position sensor.

That plastic thing removes pretty easily, I had it off on my '00obw before. Depending on the dent the heat gun/dry ice method might pop it out.

haha yah it is surprising sometimes that is for sure! How they can't correct these issues is beyond me. I mean on newer vehcies yes ok maybe htey havne't had feedback. But on a '97? I mean could you be the first person to buy inner bearing seals for a soob from them and then have issues?

Actually you said ones that don't cost an arm and a leg. It's just some I remembered seeing that ARP makes before.

Have you checked out ARP?

You might be able to use a piece of PCV pipe cap or somethign. One of the oil filter cap wrenches from that Harbor Freight set just happend to be the right size. Or maybe take the new seal to auto parts store to see what matches up? The hardest part actually was getting the old seal out. The new one went in prety easy. Since it is to seal against the dust seal on the axle I woudln't drive any further than the orignla was in there. hehe my pics are all old, I just keep reusing the same ones over and over I haven't had new pics in at least a year.

Maybe one of your door pin switches is a little dirty or something.

Sounds good, I did that inner seal when I did an axle before too. You would need one heck of a large socket for it though. I found one of the aluminum filter wrenches from the HF kit was the perfect size though at least for this 00 outback.

Not sure it would be forcing against the end of the axle shaft which is just steel or cast iron or whatever it is. It does seem that with the forcing method though it might start to push the axle stub out of the hub but the hub might still be stuck in the bearing housing? Until the axle can't compress any more then it might be putting lateral force against the joints?

There's a good article on endwrench about Subaru ABS. It shows all the different types and how to get the codes from each type. Let's see...says 1998 to present Forester — type is: ABS 5.3i it says for 5.3i On-Board Diagnostics Using on board-diagnostics is very similar to the ABS-2E system. Three trouble codes are the limit of memory retention with the newest code being displayed first. Accessing of trouble codes is achieved by first turning off the ignition switch, then grounding terminal 3 of the 6 pole service connector B82 located above the accelerator pedal, then turning on the ignition switch. The codes can be viewed on the ABS warning light. The trouble codes for the ABS 5.3 system are the same as the 2E system with the addition of trouble code 29. This code will be generated when the speed of one of the wheels is 1.25 times faster than the others for at least one minute.

It should be there, but, if it was never used, they are sometimes covered in electrical tape and kind of wrapped into the harness.

I removed my soobs plastic thing and inspected the filler pipe and painted with bbq paint and then sprayed it down with rust protection coating. Mine all have rust on them but doesn't seem to be too thin (yet!). Many of my family goes to Ontario once a year to get rustproofing done at http://www.Krown.com You can't get a lot of that stuff in NY anymore since NY doesn't like VOC's. Driveway sealer, etc, all water based now in NY. So people go to OH to get the stuff that actually works.

I have no idea if this would work, but is something I was thinking about in case I ever needed to do it.... how about an old brake rotor put on backwards, maybe with a few fender washers in the middle hole with the slide hammer screw through the washers?

There is a little play on the camber bolt. I usually push the bearing housing up as I tighten the bolt back as that is how it would be if the wheel were on the ground when the bolt was tightened (i.e. on an alignment rack). If you have a fairly level garage floor or other surface, checking the camber with a short level against the wheel is pretty easy. I'd say that can be accurate to within 20 minutes (20/60 or 1/3 degree). I check my toe with the strings method. Once you have marked your steering wheel center doing the toe with the strings method is not very hard. Are these as accurate as the laser racks well maybe not, but I think some amateur racers use these methods at the track. After doing it a few times you can check the camber and toe all the way around in just the time you would spend waiting at a shop to do it. If you have to make adjustments it takes longer because you have to back the car out then pull in again to let everything settle into place and then replace your strings.

Right, 2mph or less[b/]. i.e. if the vehicle is stopped/not moving (0 mph) then you can enter sequence control. (this is probably the safest time to do this job, though some people might try to do it on their way in to work to save time along with eating a donut drinking coffee combing their hair talking on their cell phone while tying their shoes), Oh you'll know when it enters sequence control. It will sound like a strange music coming from the hydraulic unit, all kinds of buzzings and such. It's pretty neat. Be careful not to be overtaken as it sounds like the Sirens to a forlorn Subaru sailor.

Once you get that plastic cover off, you'll see she's right there.

Yah the trick might be the sequence control while bleeding. It is fun putting it in sequence control too because it almost sounds like music as it cycles all its little valves and the motor is running in there.

Not sure, probably want to do your homework first. It seems I remember seeing some posts where the engines are not necessarily plug and play electrically (sensor types etc). Also maybe has something to do with various emission requirements? A main thing is...if you had EGR.

What's AM? hehe just kidding. I don't know esp if it is an aftermarket unit. They might not be putting much $ into the AM sections these days. AM has always seemed to be more picky and hard to tune in and get it to stay tuned in. If it's a problem that is just starting, maybe somethign is going wrong with the unit. I think the AM section just uses some internal ferite core coil thing for reception rather than the external antenna. Did you have your windows tinted recently? There was something about some soob radios getting static when the rear defroster was on but I forget the details.

Hm, did Forester ever go to rear multilink suspension like Legacy and Outback did around 99/00?

The antiseize comes on there just like that on the genuine sensors. The bluing looks a little more than usual maybe but how's the wiring and connector look? The dealer probably wouldn't knowingly sell a used sensor, but you know some people, they'll buy a new sensor, clean up their old one and put it in the box and try to return it.