porcupine73

Is this an automatic or manual transmission?

Do they both have or not have EGR?

Hadn't thought of the chaser. I think even pepboys has the lisle thread chaser, it's tapped for the common spark plug sizes maybe one of those matches the o2 sensor thread. If the o2 sensor feels way too loose in the hole then maybe it is stripped out. Maybe some fiberfrax would do the trick, this place is near my work http://www.fiberfrax.com/

There is the whole 'can' and 'should' thing. There is no adjustment that 'should' be made. The ECU has a control loop acting on the IACV based on idle rpm.....so unless it shuts the valve or opens the valve as far as it is willing to go and still can't control the rpm at the setpoint then the iacv 'adjustment' should be the issue. Thoguht they sometimes get gummy and sticky and don't open or close properly of course. Not sure how seafoam in the fuel tnak would help with that though since the fuel does not pass through the iacv. There is a recommended procedure for cleaning it on endwrench (at least for the speed dnesity based setups but the same basic idea applies to them all except drive by wire of course).

Well the helicoil is kind of a pain because you have to drill out the hole to a larger size, then put in the helicoil, not impossible, but more work/skill required than jb weld for emaple. Helicoils can be surprisgnly pricey too.

Is the differential output shafts sometimes referred to as stub shafts? these things?

http://www.porcupine73.com/endwrench/Diagnostic Trouble Code P1507 DiagTroubSum04.pdf

Hmmm.mhmmmm..mmhm...well if you're looking for a fast fix (vs something like a helicoil), it'll have to be something that can withstand high temperatures like at least 1000F I'd say.......not sure if teflon tape can withstand that.....maybe some kind of nomex packing or something like that.....there are thread repair kits that are sort of like jbweld but not sure what temp those can withstand.....loctite maybe but loctite is not relaly intended to bridge gaps which is what you have.....

hehe yes, the valves closed things I see in a lot of single cylinder small engines for generators, wackers, etc. It says to pull until you feel that it is on the compression stroke. Guessing there probably isn't a position though on the soob where all the valves on all the cylinders are closed. But stuffing the intake and exhaust ports with an oily rag could at least help keep moist air from comin in there.

Nice pics! Wow Blu is really well polished, esp in that last pic very shiny

Yes I have had issues on '00obw with the little tabs for the bulbs not mkaing good contact (making me think bulb was blown but it wasn't). DRL on that era is high beam bulb run at reduced intensity (via PWM pulse width modulation at the DRL module. PWM is also the modulation method the TCU uses for the auto trans solenoids).

Since it's out of the car, I'd be putting some LC20 in each spark plug hole and then turn the crank a few times to spread it around in the cylinder. Stuff an oily rag in the intake and exhaust ports. Not sure if there is any position like this but leave crank in a position with the most possible valves closed. Before the enigne was removed, it should have been run with gaosline with a stiff does of fuel stabilizer to help prevent gunking up of the injectors.

Yes this is proper dash illumination on a '96 legacy (brighton) when moving key from acc to run.

Did you have a chance to check that B22 connector?

Also, if replaced with an aftermarket unit, that might be worse than the well-used original part. What's some other tips....keep fuel filter changed regularly to prevent excessive restriction for the pump, which makes it draw more current, which makes it get hotter... and some people say keep enough fuel in the tank to immerse the pump since the fuel can kind of act like a coolant for the pump then?

It's was made by K&W which was bought by CRC about 10 years ago. http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=402132&S=Y Looks like parts america carries it. http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductListSimple.aspx?Category=2129

Yah I gave up on the pinch bolt....I could not budge it without fear of it snapping.....which has happened to many many an individual. Undid the strut to bearing housing bolts instead and checked camber afterwards. How's about a bunch of pics? this is from my '00obw job with an MWE axle:

haha you are not kidding. I have had places throw all the parts, hard heavy parts like strut springs and delicate parts like oxygen sensors into a box, ZERO packing on the bottom, and then throw some craft paper on top as if that is going to make it all better.

Yes good results here too, I like they keep common parts in stock and I am only 1-2 ups shipping days from them. The only issues I've had is when I order part in the 'comments' field that I can 't find on the site sometimes I don't receive it, like the part # is hand written on the order but whoever is packing the order doesn't notice it or something. A big plus in my mind for them is they do NOT use that blasted trademotion.com software thing. That thing just plain stinks. They have their own setup with, get this, OEM Subaru part numbers!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :thumbsup:

hehe...remove very carefully. If it's really siezed in there might need heat and vise grips to get it out. Then inspect the pin and bore. The pin can be replaced, but if the bore is corrdoed then that can be trouble. Let's see what picds I have on file....... and the new purple ceramic...don't have a pic of that yet.

haha..hm maybe you did do something to tick off pilladaes

haha whatever you have that is destroying the knock sensors is destroying them everywhere it is not at all an uncommon problem. The only sacrifice required is money to purchase new parts muhahaha. I think the constellation is pilladaes or something like that isn't it?

Yes I usually just wrap a shop towel around the hose before removing it. It does spray a little but it's not like a gusher. Another way is if you can find the access port under the rear seat/cargo area and disconnect the connector there while running that works pretty well too. This is what the connector looks like on a '96 2.2l anyway....