porcupine73

Have you made sure your battery is good and fully charged? If it cranked for a long time or got drained when it was cooking the insulation off the old wire and then sat for a month or more it might just not have enough oomph in it. I would just replace the wire from the starter solenoid to your pushbutton, don't rely on the old burned taped up wire. Or try using a fused jumper wire, fused as close to the battery + as possible, then use that on the solenoid and see if it cranks normally. I did have a strange slow cranking type issue on my '96 before that I thought was the timing slipped or something funny like that, and it turned out it was something with the supply to the starter solenoid (I guess many people have put in an interposing relay from what I saw on other posts), but I just put the fused wire from battery + through a pushbutton from NAPA right to the starter solenoid which sounds like what you did and that works great.

The flashing 16 times means it has one or more codes stored.You'd have to find the procedure for that trans to get it to flash out the codes or read the codes out of it then see what they mean. Since it was working OK at first after the replacement and then started acting up later maybe check all electrical connections? Maybe something wasn't quite plugged in all the way and became unseated?

Possibly useful: Correct Axle Ratios CorrectInfo.pdf

I blew the 100 amp main before too. The big fat wire that connects with the ring terminals on the alt, when you unhook the alt, if those ring terminals touch ground at all it will blow that fuse. Belt dressing from what I can tell tends to work better on v belts, and doesn't work very well on serpentine belts.

Knock sensors are known to crack on those years. I would start with the knock sensor. When that code comes on yes it can make the vehicle stumble for a second like it's almost going to stall out then it will be very lacking in power. The ECU retards timing to the edge of its map as a failsafe which while great for reducing the possibility of knock stinks for power production. There may very well be additional issues with the plugs and/or wires or other ignition component. Just saw your last post. Flashing CEL is often for misfire.

I'm not completely sure but it sort of looks like it might resemble a radiator mount though 2005 is far too new for my fleet to have seen one haha.

If it's the cable, then here is the part you would likely need: 35151FA040 CABLE ASSEMBLY-SELECT LEVER list $58.38 http://parts.subaru.com/a/Subaru_1999_Impreza22L-AT-4WDOutback-Sport-Wagon/__6029502/SELECTOR-SYSTEM-SELECT0R-SYSTEM/G10-351-03.html And make sure to get a couple of 33058GA010 NUT-GEAR SHIFT . F-4WAT I don't remember if it comes with that. On my '94 I think it was two of that part, but from the diagram for your '99 it looks like maybe one and perhaps another part it says 'clip'. That is what you turn to adjust it so that when it says it is in D it is actually in D. In this area they are going to be completely rusted out. On my '94 I had to cut it out with a dremel because that threaded rod was so rusted. It might be available aftermarket I am not sure. Best bet for genuine is to order online, you'll pay far more walking into Northtown or West Herr to get it. I replaced it on my '94 it isn't too difficult. The sort of hardest part is getting it adjusted so that when it's in 'D' for example it is actually in D, and not N or 3, and not like 3/4 of the way in D but pretty much pret well centered in D. I think there's a special tool for doing that but I didn't use it. I just tweaked it about a dozen times until it was 'just right'. The way mine broke was I like to use 1, 2, and 3 often, and 1 and 2 were pretty hard to shift into i.e. corrosion in the cable or something. Well I forced it a little too much a few too many times and you could start to feel that it would move to say 2 but it was actually still in drive. Once it started doing that it only took about a dozen operations of the shifter for it to break. And it broke while I was on the way to work. So I just popped the hood and had the engine running with the parking brake set really hard, then I moved the shifter lever on the trans like you mentioned until it was in D, and then just hoped I didn't have to back up until I got to work. Actually I drove it that way a couple days until I could fix it.

Hi the transmission cooler hard lines where they connect on the AT are dripping pretty good now on my '96 Legacy Brighton 2.2L. I got the new parts from SubaruPartsForYou but was wondering ... how much fluid is going to leak out when I unhook these lines? I wasn't sure if the torque converter or something might drain out? Especially out the shorter line that has the ball and spring behind it? Any other tips for a simpler replacement? Thanks.

I remember in older posts some people said they would get the seatbelts from a Canadian vehicle (which did not have the auto belts) and use that. Many years had a lifetime warranty on the seatbelts but I don't think those years did.

I haven't heard of the fuel rails rusting through under the hood. Sometimes some of the short lengths of rubber hose under the intake manifold get issues. I'd say far more likely that the transmission cooler lines (if auto trans), rear brake lines, and fuel lines near the tank before they come up under the rear seat will all rust out first.

My '96 in NY I generally have to get the shop to do a drive cycle on it to set the monitors to get it to pass. Years ago I don't know what the shop I used to go to did but they never said anything to me about it, it just passed. The new shop looked at the bulletin but said they have to connect the ECU to the DMV's computer and it makes the determination and they can't override it so I've just been having them do the drive cycle and that gets it to pass.

Yes there is a vent and if you severely overfill it, it will drain out the vent (I tested it accidentally haha). The vent hoses for the front diff and the auto trans are next to each other. Overfilled isn't ideal but I think the car will deal with it.

Based on how you described that even after you got it started moving the shifter didn't make the car move it could be that the shifter cable snapped. I had that happen on my '94 though it gave some warning. If you were able to manually move the shifter thingy on the side of the transmission then I think it is likely the cable snapped. When you move the shifter in the cabin, does it have pretty much no resistance to moving? Right the autos don't have a neutral safety switch per se (that's what Subaru calls it on the MT's) though the autos do have a position switch and right it will not engage the starter unless it thinks it is in park or neutral. Same with the shift interlock solenoid, unless it thinks it is in park it won't release the interlock when you press on the brake (and hence you cannot get it out of park as you mentioned without sticking a screwdriver in the little slot or doing what you mentioned).

Depending on other factors I have heard others say $1000 can buy a lot of oil. If it's not driven a lot or finances are tight at all some might just buy inexpensive oil and simply keep it topped off. Junking for parts for $300 is a bit of an odd suggestion since I think you may be able to get more than that just driving it to a scrap yard. If it's got aluminum wheels those alone can be scrapped as clean aluminum if the tires are off them.

I was trying to see how much treadwear would impact it. Figuring 4mph slow at 55mph would be about 7.2% slow. With 225/60r16 tires it looks like it would take nearly an inch of treadwear to make it that slow. So not likely treadwear unless it's say super swampers that have been run down to slicks haha.

Right on plug wires or possibly coil pack are prime suspects. Sometimes if you get it in a dimly lit area and watch under the hood while cranking when it won't start or when misting the area with a spray bottle of water you will be able to see the blue spark arcing off a plug wire or the coil pack. In an emergency if you can wrap a couple layers of electrical tape around where you see the arc that may get you through until you can replace the faulty component(s).

Well let's see what Joe says. Cars101.com says '95 LSi had power assisted 10.2" front disc, 10.5 rear disc, ABS, 4 channel Assuming you have a 98 Outback Limited per upnorthguy, Joe says that had Brakes: 4 channel Anti-Lock Brakes. Heavy duty 10.7 vented front disc with dual caliper pistons, 10.5" rear disk. So assuming all that info is correct, if your brakes are shot and you want to use the components from the '95 it's not ideal because the '95s being single piston and smaller rotors but it should bolt up (using the '95 front rotors). The only real bolt up concern is where the brackets bolt to the bearing housing, and that seems to be the same on similar era Subaru's it's just the brackets and calipers and rotors vary. (And obviously if going to bigger rotors do the wheels still fit). Or maybe if the '95 front calipers will mount to your existing caliper brackets then you could keep your old rotors.

I might have an extra oil pump o-ring and one or two of the cam o-rings that I probably would never end up using that I could give you if that helps. It would be Saturday Jan 17 at the earliest before I would be at the place I have my parts stored. I think I have those parts in there but I wouldn't know for sure until I dig through it.

Neat, it looks like even Amazon has that TCS45919 kit http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=TCS45919

Do you have a dealer nearby? Online the o-rings go for about $2. Or do you have any hydraulic supply places around such as Parker? Or last resort might be something like Grainger.

These were the o-ring's I used for 2.2L

Yes the cam 'cap' comes off, on the left hand (driver's side for LH drive vehicles). The o-ring is in there. It can become an oil leak source so it's pretty easy to replace while doing the timing belt and cam seals anyway. The right hand o-ring is on the back, it can be harder to get to, on my '94 it was easy. It might be easier from underneath the vehicle I'm not sure.

It uses a metal gasket with no silicone. right, '95 2.2L would be non-interference. Could do the left hand cam cap o-ring. The main one of concern is the crank pulley. Originally it listed only like 70 ft-lb or so and a lot of them loosened up which then messes up the keyway for the crank sprocket. I think most people go up around 130 ft-lb, it's a pretty stout bolt. If you're in a rust belt area or the vehicle was in a rust area be prepared for extra time to get the old bolts out. I.e. the timing belt cover bolts, crank sprocket might be rusted on the the crank, things like that.

Oh ok thanks I never realized knock and ping were the same thing. Hm maybe I better put that sensor back in. C:\Users\porcupine73>ping knock Ping could not find knock. Please check the name and try again.

I had replaced the knock sensor in my '00obw with a resistor for a few years. I was running 91 all the time (mainly since it was ethanol free). It never seemed to knock but it definitely pinged, mainly when it was hot out like you said and at low rpm's.