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My 85 Brat started and ran a month ago, then it sat for a month. I tried to start it, the engine would maybe 1/2 turn over with each try. Things I did Replace battery with a proven strong one. Clean battery terminals, and cable clamps, clean engine ground connection, clean positive cable connection at starter. I can swap parts with my healthy 1984 GL! What should my next step be?
1988 DL Coup won't start.
Casull posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...Howdy, My Subaru won't start all of a sudden. I am new to this car, so bear with me. I will explain what I have observed. Upon turning the key to a point the lights turn on the fuel pump in the rear makes a "Rrrrrrr... Rrrrrrr" Sound with about a one-and-a-half second pause between sounds. This happened before but the car would start and then there would be a constant "rrrrr" sound. There was a situation not so long ago where I cranked for a while longer than I'd like to, and it did start. The fuel pump and fuel filter look brand new. But my first assumption to this point is that I must have been too low on gas and they got gummed up. However, I must consider than the sound is normal. Again, I'm a newb. Did a firing test. Definitely firing. Suggestions, ideas, knowledge? Update 1: After letting the starter attempt to do it's job for about five or six seconds the car did start and does start every time after. However, I do not know if that means the problem is somehow solved. The idle itself on the first rough-start was fine, but became more adequate all of a sudden with a higher RPM. I will be doing a cold start soon to see if I experience the same difficulty. Update 2: I let the fuel pump oscillate two to three times before attempting a start. After actually running or being on a trip it starts right away. The short (if there truly was one) is also gone. I have not experienced difficulty to start anymore. I assume it was dirty fuel causing inadequate pressure. But really, I don't know.
Ok, been hotwiring 99 legacy more than a year without any problems. I was using a light switch for the on/off and a springy button thing to engage the starter. It all worked well, and was simple for my gf to use as well. Then I found what i thought was a really cool new switch and button combo that would both fit well and look much better, so i took the light switch and button off and thats when things went south. I got sidetracked doing something with my neighbor, and during this time while all the ignituon wires were just hanging free, my gf decided she needed to drive to the store. I heard her yell and saw the cloud of smoke come from under the hood. The big wire connecting the selenoid to the starter had fried - all the insulation was burned off and after it cooled down i taped that wire back up but it was clear the starter was done. So i got a new starter, and now when i try to start the car it sounds like somethings not engaging. Theres no cranking sound, just a constant sound like things are just rotating. The cars been dead about a month now and i dont know what to do. I thought the starter may not be turning the flywheel but it is. I also cleaned all the ground wires i could find , had both the starter and alternator tested, and made sure theres spark. Its the weirdest sound trying to start it, everyone whos heard it says the same thing - that theyve never heard that before and that it sounds like somethings not engaging. I dont know what to do please help
1992 Loyale Timing tricks/secrets
inkedmike73 posted a topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...I think I am almost there to getting this 1992 Loyale back up and running. I had diagnosed this engine as a broken timing belt and it was. The Driver side belt was majorly broken. However, I got the new belts on and the timing seemed to be weird and I can't get it to fire up. The pass. sides seems like it is firing but the driver side is not. It's getting spark and fuel and compression. but no combustion. Per Chiltons guide I lined up the dots to the top of the timing backing and the crank sproket dot up as well. but the driver side 2/4 is fouled by fuel, well cylinder 2 is. I didn't check c4. Compression is abour 150 psi and holds. (no leakage) Chilton siad something about applying pressure while setting the timing belt, but if I did that then it would not be on it's mark. So is there anyone out there that has done this repair and knows the exact thing to do to make sure this thing is in time? I've made sure that the engine was at TDC beore I aligned the cams. Thanks for your assistance! -Mike
Hey all, The title is incorrect. It should read "cannont turn Counterclockwise"... I have been working on my swap (1993 EJ22 into 1992 Loyale), and have run into a disheartening problem. I had a hard time getting the motor to line up while putting it in. So, what I did was loosen the clutch pressure plate (PP) bolts. Motor went in with no problems. This is where my stomach kind of dropped.... I put a socket wrench on the crank bolt in order to turn the flywheel so that I could tighten the PP bolts. Well, I made it about 1/4 revolution (counterclock-wise) before it siezed. Tried a little extra pressure, but I'm pretty sure It'll just undo the crank bolt that I've already torqued... I can turn the crank clockwise with ease. There is one point at which it feels like it drags on something slightly, but it'll still turn (clockwise). The only thing significant that I did to the motor, was recondition the heads, and replace gaskets. Do I need to pull the motor back out? Why can I turn it one way, but not the other?? Thanks, Greg