porcupine73

That's a neat video thanks for sharing. The description says Walt Biggers was the guys grandfather. The video is a bit weird but it's so upbeat, energetic and the connection between the two of them looks so strong and genuine I watched it several times. They have a bunch of other non-Brat related videos too. It looks like they moved to Japan to be missionaries in 2012 so I'm guessing they sold the Brat?

I used Monroe many years ago on a Ford Escort. The handling afterward would best be described as a 'wet noodle'. I like the firmness of the KYB GR-2's. One nice thing about using all new components is you don't have to disassemble the old struts assemblies, which when doing all four is a bit of a time saver.

Does it look all lined up if you shine a flashlight through before you drive the roll pin? I mentioned the 180 thing because it will slide on at two positions, but align perfectly with the hole in the stub shaft in only one position. If it's going into the stub shaft it sounds like it must be right. Maybe the type/brand of axle has something funny about it that it doesn't want to accept the roll pin in the opposite side. Only other thing I can think maybe is try driving the roll pin without the axle connected to the stub shaft, i.e. to verify that the axle does indeed accept the pin.

Shop price will be highly variable. If they use a pre-assembled strut with the spring and such that would be the minimum labor. No need for a spring compressor, just use this handy trick (just kidding of course the spring ties method is highly dangerous, I just remember seeing this pic somewhere years back)

Sounds good. What do you mean when you say new mating gasket, is that for the oil pump? The oil pump doesn't use a gasket, it uses anaerobic sealant or rtv such as permatex ultra grey.

Pull the axle off the diff stub shaft, rotate 180 degrees, slide it back on, then the pin should go in. I think what you're describing is the roll pin going into the axle but not into the stub shaft? If that's the case you cannot leave it that way. It has to go into the stub shaft. That said, the aftermarket axles I've noticed sometimes come with a roll pin that's 1/4 to 1/2 inch longer than necessary. If that's the case then yes some may be sticking out. Make your pin punch longer by finding the smallest deepwell 12 pt socket you can fit the pin punch into, then use some electrical tape to hold it in, then attach a socket extension. Now the pin punch will be nice and long.

If you can fit the bikes inside it should be fine. You probably already know it's really easy to remove the flip up rear seat so that the back seats lay down flatter. On my '94 I pulled the passenger seat too, that adds a lot of cargo space, with the passenger seat and back seats out the thing is cavernous. I'd say try to keep not too much weight behind the rear axle, I've noticed then the front end feel a little squirrely over bumps. Maybe it's just towing another vehicle that uhaul is picky about, I thought they wanted the tow vehicle to be at least double the weight of the vehicle being towed or something like that.

Right on. Here's a pic of that location on my 96 Legacy 2.2 under the matt behind the right rear seat but with AT:

At the minimum look to see if it's blowing bubbles in the overflow reservoir while idling after it's good and warmed up such as a test drive. Also is due for the timing belt if it was never done, which is possible.

That doesn't seem excessive. I forget what the guideline was for that era, I thought it was like 1000# without trailer brakes and 2000# with trailer brakes? Right u-haul would probably say you need an F-350 or bigger to pull that.

Glad you found the switch. It's sort of hidden away back behind the steering wheel. Often people bump it on such as when cleaning the car. It seems like kind of a weird switch to have, I mean do other makes have that kind of switch?

Hi. Could be something going on with it. Most likely not unlocking for some reason, possibly something flaky with the lockup duty solenoid? Maybe it then stalls, loses line pressure, and the TC unlocks so you can restart it.

Hi, have you checked the switch on top of the steering column? Sometimes that gets accidentally flipped on and then the parking lights stay on.

With enough time and money it can probably be repaired. It would seem like the aftermarket rebuilders would definitely be repairing/rebuilding them. Well or maybe I should say attempting to repair/rebuild them. Lol, some squeaky ashtrays though?

What's the idle rpm roughly? Not sure if this is relevant but just mentioning it since it comes to mind re: the unplugging #1 plug wire. I remember an old EndWrench article said something about if for some reason the ECU doesn't think it can reliably control the idle RPM, it will cut the #1 injector pulses.

This was a graphic I put together from an aftermarket transmission rebuilder bulletin. My '00 Outback never developed the slow to engage to drive issue up to 200k miles thankfully, but unfortunately a bearing or something in the front diff I think is going to be its demise.

I've only done three belts on the sohc. The only 'trick ' I noticed is that the left cam seems to need to be slightly ahead of the hash mark on the timing cover. When the tensioner pin is pulled, it then seems to rotate to align with the hash on the timing cover. With the genuine belt I don't think you can go wrong, the lines on the belt are exact. I believe the arrows are for piston position. It's dry enough that it could be an engineering joke. I think they prefer to have contests amongst themselves to see who can develop the most 'Subaru special tools'.

Could maybe do a compression test. I remember the old Endwrench article used to say that one tooth off it would start and run but would lack power; it claimed two teeth off it would not start. It had the details for the compression test but I forget exactly what it said, something like >180psig in all cylinders I think and not too much difference between cylinders. Did you use a genuine belt, or did your belt have the lines on it to line up with the hash marks? If not and you think it may be off, may have to count the teeth on the belt between the sprocket hash marks.

Does the ABS light turn off shortly after you start up the vehicle? From what you described one guess might be a wheel speed sensor, especially if it has a fair amount of crud built up around the tone wheel. At speed the sensor might detecting the tone wheel just fine but at really low speed i.e. just before it stops if it's having trouble reading the tone wheel, i.e. the pulse amplitudes being too low, it may be assuming that wheel has locked up and then the ABS kicks in.

'94 was ODBI it used the two little connectors under the dash to make it flash out. Mid 90's timing belt interval I think it depended if it had Calif. emissions or not. The 'normal' spec was 60k, but Calif. spec got kevlar aramid belt to get to 105k since Calif. emissions said something like nothing emissions related can require maintenance in the first 100k miles.

There's also the old 'acetone and ATF' penetrating oil, if there's any acetone or nail polish remover laying around, and mix in a bit of any automatic transmission fluid, supposedly it works fairly well.

Hm not sure if this helps but it says Home Depot in Parkersburg WV has Everbilt M7-1.0 x 40 mm Zinc-Plated Hex Bolt in stock, not sure if that's long enough though, 3 inches is more like 75mm. They have longer ones but the longest that says in stock for pickup is 40mm.... Not sure if you have Ace Hardware or Tractor Supply around there, both of those seem to usually have decent fastener selections...

Is the blower intermittent when on the highest setting?

Right on, not the arrows, the hash marks for timing. Hopefully using the arrows didn't result in any bent valves. If it still won't start after using the hash marks, maybe do a compression test to see what you get. Hopefully no valves got bent from using the arrows. Same idea on the cam sprockets,

When idling after warmed up, does it blow bubbles into the reservoir?