porcupine73

Excellent, just need to get some supplies. Notes to self.... OEM fitting to brake line hose is M10x1.0 (same as brake caliper banjo bolt) with a thread engagement of at least 8mm. OEM brake lines are approx. 4.86mm OD with the greenish coating. This means they are probably the 4.75mm od which is approx 3/16" od brake line which is very common. Not sure if the fittings use the what seem to be called ISO 37 deg. bubble flare, or the SAE 45 deg. double flare. Here's the mating surface of an old flex hose brake line: This site has some interesting info and possibly products of interest: http://www.fedhillusa.com

Just for fun I punched the part # into google and exactly one hit came up http://www.graphics.cornell.edu/~v/partnumbers.html 87022AA310 4EAT turbo cruise control unit

Not sure about cost, but it is a bucket&shim setup. So probably valve cover gaskets and spark plug tube seals and valve cover bolt washers (valve cover gasket kit), plus however long it takes them to do it. The shim kit I think has like 94 shim sizes.

Hi courtesy of https://www.subarugenuineparts.com/oe_parts_cat.html it just says 'IGN WIRE SET 2.5L' Lookup at http://www.subarupartsforyou.com says for '98 2.5L SOA430Q122 WIRE SET, IGNITION FOR 1998-1999 LEGACY OUTBACKS ALL

Hi. What brand spark plugs and what brand spark plug wires were used? I assume the clearance was tight on the valve that was replaced. There are an assortment of 94 shims available to adjust the clearance on that bucket&shim style lifter.

Sounds good! I just noticed the smell in my '96 today but I just replaced the axle this weekend. That's what those pics are from. Those pics are fresh out of the box from this weekend, I've never posted those before. I have posted my '00obw pics before though, I used an MWE axle on that one which worked fine; thought I would try an OEM this time seems to be working well too but is like twice the price.

Hi. I have a '96 with the 4eat too. It calls for Dexron IIE/III. You won't find fluids saying that anymore though since Dexron is a GM spec and they are not renewing licenses for the older Dexron forumulations anymore. So you have to look for a product that might say 'also for applications formerly calling for Dexron II/III etc'. Or you can use the newer Subaru/Idemitsu HP-ATF but of course that's going to cost more......

Sometimes before the boot completely rips open it will just spew a little grease and the initial tear is not obvious. Sometimes on a poorly rebuilt axle the grease can leak around the boot band clamps too. Also unless you spend some time wiping up all the grease that spewed from the first break, the smell can linger for a long time. Even if you do wipe it up it still smells I have noticed because some of the grease gets in between the cat heat shields and stuff where you can't clean it out. It took a few months to go away on my '00obw even though I wiped up the grease. Yes that is a unique smell.... Also have you looked at the other axle, maybe one of its boots has split? I just had that boot tear on my '96 and replaced it with a Subaru oem reman axle...all the grease all over the cat heat shield is going to smell for a while.

Also possibility of air trapped in the system, though I don't think that would give the symptom you are describing....

Yes rock on white wagons FTW! My '94 L: A lift option might be Outback struts&springs.

For anecdotal evidence I can let you know how my two Subaru reman alts fare. First is for '96 Legacy, been running for ~2 months seems to be ok so far (had a napa in there when I bought it). Second is for '00 Outback, not yet installed, original suddenly went to 16V output.

I found some more pics of the H6 timing chain stuff in an endwrench article:

Well, new gen sohc '97 and up anyway. The dohc 2.5L '97+ I think has the bucket&shim style lifters with 94 shim sizes. The '90 Legacy 2.2L has the hydraulic lash adjusters. Actually that engine probably has the large HLA's.

Oh that's cool. Maybe they bought like 10000 of them at once and got a good deal on them. Do they come in the little baggie with the Subaru part # and stuff?

haha o man I hear you on the Sears thing. The last few years their right after thanksgiving sales have been pretty amazing. Like half the price of the best sears sale price I've ever seen on certain items. However their web site crashes from the load. I've ordered after the fact and explained I tried to order during the sale but the web site crashed (which it did), and then like two months later get a refund for differnece in the sale price. Exceleent!!!

Haha right on! Even 'sale' is optional if other excuses are available.... thanks for the tip about using the stiff wire to route the brake line path before bending the line. Good idea! I have a tubing bender, haven't bent much tube though.....

Yes I know I have seen where soob has said the H6 timing chain is 'good for the [useful] life of the engine' but didn't say the mileage. The limiting factor there I think is the water pump. Also I think soob went timing chain on the H6 to save a little space.

Right on, just to be clear, Subaru OEM parts can be had only from Subaru dealers. There are tons of places online and even locally including your local autozone pepboys etc where you can find aftermarket parts.

Great thanks for all the info everyone! Two questions.... (1) does anyone know what the Subaru brake pipe internal diameter size is? like 4mm 4.5mm, etc. (2) Per that flaring article linked earlier, does anyone know if the Soob brake line fittings are the 'bubble flare' or 'double flare 45 deg'? Thanks so much!!!! I am feeling a lot better about being able to do this. I need to get the flaring kit, supplies etc....just what I needed another excuse to buy more tools!

Maybe you found yourself on the 'persons of interest' list!!! Yes SUBARU wagons FTW! SUBARU Wagons unite! Round up the SUBARU wagons!

When you buy your parts from Subaru dealers selling parts online, try to buy more than just a pcv valve. I mean just to ship anything by ups these days is at least about $5-6. Order maybe two pcv valves, some air filters, a fuel filter, etc., rather than placing small orders frequently place larger orders less frequently. My suggestion is find a good Subaru dealer selling parts online that is geographically close to you, that way it takes maybe two days to get your parts if they have them in stock (a good parts dealer will stock the common parts), or maybe three days if not in stock and the dealer is near a Subaru RDC - regional distribution center.

I think the 105k timing belts use kevlar aramid or somethign that makes them so durable. I don't see many posts about the OEM belts breaking before their time? I think the 100,000 mile thing was originally due to Calif. emmisions saying the vehicle couldn't require certain kinds of maintenance/service before 100,000 miles. Some mid 90's-ish 2.2L soobs say 60k mile/60 months timing interval for the non-calif emmissions version, but 105k/105 months for the calif emmisions version.

Parts store rebuilt alts are junk. Yes ok so maybe you get a lifetime warranty but it's still your time, trip to the store, and possible vehicle downtime every time it fails. Many parts store rebuilt stuff gets only the faulty component replaced and maybe a few other things, gets cleaned up, tested and then sold. That means many parts in there can go untouched. See and in this case the OEM reman part from a Subaru dealer who sells parts online would have cost less than the parts store alt. 23700AA34ARA ALTERNATOR ASSEMBLY REMAN FOR 1995-1999 LEGACYS, approx $130 from Subaru dealers selling online (price includes ~$30 core charge).

Anyone need any pictures for this thread? some can be clicked to enlarge thermostat comparison metal oil separator upgrade oil pump is at the front of the engine between the block and crank sprocket in this pic it is behind the crank sprocket and has the red/orange colored crank angle sensor on it oil pump - can see the brown colored front crank seal in this pic Yes after removing the oil pump, make sure to loctite these screws on the rear. o-ring part # is different for certain engines. One appears to be just a normal o-ring, the other is a slightly flattened o-ring with a ridge on it. oil pump removed and o-ring location

The wheels won't spin freely like a bicycle tire. It should spin fairly freely and smoothly and if you give it a good twirl it should stay spinning for a little bit after you take your hand away. If you give it a good push and it stops immediately when you take your hand away then maybe something is hanging up. Yes the caliper guide and lock pins are common places where it gets hung up, as is dirt/rust in the caliper brackets making the pad ears stick in place. Sometimes the calipers themselves sieze up with age or if water gets past the rubber boot over the piston.