jon38iowa

I had my 2.5 non- turbo SOHC Engine rebuilt last week. It runs great, plenty of power, and is pleasant to drive. However, as before the engine is loud, sounds more like a truck(roar), though there is no longer any knock noise. My question is this: Is there a method for quieting this motor, at least a little. The exhaust is perfect (had it checked by two different shops). Would a new intake manifold make any difference and are there any upgrades available? Is sound insulation available for the the inside doors helpful? Would having the windows tinted with the a reflective coating make any real change? Thanks again for any info, this site is extemely helpful!

We are on the same page. However, I have already ordered it and thus might as well replace it ( though your suggestion is a valid one to stop the noise up).

It seems I have a cracked passenger side window gusset- Loud wind sneaking in, and this is strange since I don't use that side of the car very often(I close doors with the handle);I ordered a new one today. What have I got myself into, that is how much of a job is this? Does the entire door panel have to be removed? Thanks in advance for any pointers!

My heated seats are set up just as you describe, and believe me it made it a little trickier to put the seats back in. One more thing, I think the heated might have a designated fuse somewhere on the panel, just a thought.

If you do look in the console ( ya might have to take it apart), I would look for a pigtail connector. If you see two of these on the same cord, this would be for the heated seat controls. It probably is unlikely that your seats are heated, but the wires alone are enough to give me the impetus to inspect it.

I don't think you can tell by looking at the outside whether the seats are heated or not. Wouldn't be cool if you have them! Might just be worth a peak into the center console. I just took out my seats for recarpet. Wires are exactly as you describe and they obviously plug into the pigtail from subfloor.

1. You might check at the main Subaru web site for accessories, not that you would have to buy there, but it might give you food for thought. 2. I find the alignment a little fussy on Subarus. Last time I had it done it required two different shops. The first place did a fine job with a tempermental strut tower issue, however my steering wheel was off a little and they just couldn't get it straight. Shop number two was able to get right. I have had a least 10 or more cars through the years and never had this much hassle pertaining to alignment.

I don't think all 2.5s are doomed; You can fine quite a debate here if you check the search option. I just had my ' 99 rebuilt, and for the record it never has had (133k) a headgasket issue. My friend has a '00 outback, same experience no problems at all! Even if it is issue it seems to me that its not a deal breaker for buying a Subaru. I simply increase my maintenance schedule a bit: Add the stop leak if they recomend it, change the coolant at least every two years or sooner, watch my temp gauge, etc,. Someday it might leave me along side of the rode, but then arguably many other parts could also fail simillarly. Once I was I driving to work ( non Subaru) and everything was perfect, but then the car began to hessitate and moments later I was stranded on the turn pike (AAA is good). Alternator went out, no warning not even a glitch.

Hello: This sounds kinda fishy to me as well, moreover I had mine replaced with nary a problem. I am no mechanic, but it seems like they should be able to make it work; Back in the old days we used to use what was called a helia coil (not sure on this spelling)for strip out situations, but I don't know if they still do this or not.Good luck! John

I put one in my Forester last year. It doesn't make a signifigant power increase, but I think does run a little smoother. It is also fun to clean it once a year, as opposed to discarding the paper type.

I just put new wires on my'99- Napa ( high quality), and couldn't be happier. I think they even exceed the OEMs a little.

We are taking about a 15 year old car, a testament to how well they are made! Where are most American made cars of this vintage? I say the bone yard.

Thanks for th responce. I am leaning toward the tp method ( probably scotts brand) . Could you clarrify what you are referring to by eabp110's? Never mind, I missed your first post. 99OBW I respect your view point, however I no longer fall in the replacement car catagory. Not now because Subarus are so well made. Our weather here in Iowa is brutal, moreover we can have very extreme temperature changes(30'-60')within 24 hours (causing moisture fromation). My last cars engine (bought new) lasted only only 120K, body and interior was still excellent. In this climate I simply think the engine needs a cleaner oil. Rust is an issue, but I am a car nut and not only, treat(coat) the underside every year, but also wash every snowfall or its aftermath. So far my '99 shows no rust. Again in different local or under other circumstances(buying a new car every 4-5years), I would not spend the money on these by-pass filters. After I install and drive it awhile, I will be sending in an oil sample for analysis.

Usually when you hear of headgasket issues in involves the infamous early 2.5. engines.

I don't know if this applies to your Impreza, however On my Forester there is a small pull out box located on the lower left dash board. This pull box has to be completely removed to gain access to the fuse panel, strange isn't it.

If it is the idler pulley you are borrowed time, and I wouldn't drive it until fixed.

Lol, you definately don't live in Iowa.

Yes it is the toilet paper type; The amsoil sysytem looks easier to install (and does same thing), but since its more expensive to replace filters I am torn on which way to go.

Firstly I bought the car used (abused and once overheated) with over a 100K. It was good deal and I am glad because I've put quite abit of $ into it: Its had some body work, new factory carpet, wheels & tires, all new struts, and a lot was spent trying to eke out a few more miles from the engine, such as it was. The engine had a slight knock when I got it, however it ran smoothly and was liveable. Gradualy over time it became louder, moreover I tried all the quick fixes- having it flushed, seafoam, slick 50, valve adjustment, the entire nine yards, furthermore it really didn't help. It was so loud (not the exhaust) recently I had a headache by the time I got to where I was going! At my mechanics suggestion I decided to have it overhauled(133K). I am told by the machine shop the ring skirts "were horrible." I am hoping with good care it will last many more trouble free miles,moreover, I am told first hand these Frantz by- pass filters are worth it, e.g., American made cars from the 70's exceeding 200k trouble free. At any rate I am going to give a try with my now tight ( infamous) 2.5 engine.

I just had the ej25 SOHC engine rebuilt on my Forester; My question is this: Has anyone here used the Frantz (by-pass oil filter) on their Subaru, and is it possible to use it in addition to the standard oil filter? Note I change the oil religiously every 3k sometimes sooner depending on conditions. Thanks in advance for any advice. John

Mine is a '99 Forester, moreover, despite the high mileage engine problem, I Would buy anohter tomorrow! If he gets a '98-2002 year Forester I recomend going for the S model-All four disk brakes, heated seats etc,. John

Mine had this same problem for the last 25K. In my opinion it can run this way quite awhile before failure. Mine never did fail, but it was so loud I could no longer enjoy the stereo! By the way I did a fair bit of research on these Boxer engines, and here is what I found out price wise: A rebuilt motor around $3000. plus shipping Used (salvage yard) minimal warranty $2000.- 3000. Having yours rebuilt ( and all the work done) $4000.

If you really like the car, it could well be worth it, especaily since you can do the work yourself.

I was referring to the walk away price which could be considerably less then the $2200

You do not specify condition of the Body, interior, or suspension. Having a '99 myself here is my oppinion on value range: Excellent condition, minus the engine= $2500-3000 Average condition, but needs some work immediately= $2000-2500 Poor condition, needs tires, suspension work and more= $1000-1500 Just my two cents.