Virrdog

You will save a TON over having a dealership do it. Vented rotors is what you want. That is not slotted or cross-drilled, so no worries.

Depending on how bad they are messed up, buying new studs from the dealer is probably cheaper than getting the die. I just did this on my '89 GL Wagon with a messed up stud. New stud and lug nut kit was like $2.

Yeah, outback sport is probably not what you are looking for. And this looks like a pretty good deal. I like older cars because most of the problems have already been fixed (hopefully )

Engine management and better flowing muffler will be your best bet for power. Suspension bits will make the car feel a LOT sportier, but it won't help you up a steep hill.

There was a member on here that had a Legacy who's engine had been replaced with an EJ18... He didn't really notice except that it got exceptionally good gas mileage.

I noticed this when doing the rear shocks on my wagon. I was thinking of shooting grease back there or something so the bolt tips wouldn't crud up.

And this is where I come in and remind everyone again that getting fresh or Group-N transmission mounts will help out also. All my symptoms practically disappeared after changing the mounts and putting in fresh regular tranny fluid. :cool:

Have you had the OBS on narrow dedicated snow tires? It seems the GL's are more likely to seem more capable in snow because of a couple of things: factory clearance is high, low hanging plastic plow creating content is low, tires are naturally narrow with 13" wheels, and dedicated snow tires (+wheels) are very cheap to come by in said 13" size... and not to mention lower power feels like it equals more traction. But my sport sedan with the correct tires rocked!

Looking at what they do phenolic spacers would be the only thing worth really getting for a NA EA81/82.

Big question... do you track your car? If not just use the OEM brake pads. They give you the best of all those worlds. Seriously. If you track the car occasionally at a road course (the OEMS are still fine) but a slightly higher operating temp pad like the Hawk HP work good, too if you have stickier tires. If you say you drive your car hard enough on the street to need a better pad, I'll just throw some rolly eyes and walk away from this thread. If your pads are aggressive and you drive them on the street, you will never heat them up to their proper working temperature and you will eat your pads & rotors alive. Take a browse through here to get some really good info: http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/tech_white_papers.shtml

Both systems with the same snow tires = near dead even. With 4wd you have very consistent grip. It will understeer understeer understeer all day. The downside is you have to know when to put it in and there are rare circumstances where you have in-betweener roads that won't really let you use 4wd without binding up stuff. With AWD you have the extra traction all the time without having to choose it. The downside is the traction is not quite as consistent. This is worsened with the extra torque from the turbo EJ engines. You can go from understeer to oversteer and anywhere inbetween depending on where the torque is going. So bottomline, AWD is easier for donuts. With snow tires either system works just fine in the deep snow. P.S. - I learned this from personal experience. I would have sided with the 4wd (<-- I've owned many over the years) until I drove my Legacy last year with studded snows. I slowly drove through 15" compacted drifts like they weren't there. Whereas my 4wd wagon with all-seasons would struggle to accomplish the same thing. But no worries, both are on studded snows this year.

Looks good.

Where in Tennessee is getting that cold? But yeah, idling a carb engine for a long time can definitely affect your mileage. You probably won't be able to find out your real mileage until next spring, when you stop the extra idling and they stop pumping the crap winter gas.

N/A = SB8004 Turbo = SB8005 Regardless of what GCK's application guide says. And when I got mine, the application was listed correctly on the box. :-\

I love comparison pics! Which would you rather have in your car?? This shows the rubber gaskets also.

Just be carefull not to drive the car more than 88 mph!

Nice! Now you just need to find a newer Audi that's been wrecked to smithereens (all aluminum one like the A8). You might need a bigger fire, though. That would be one big pile of smelted aluminum!

You might want to check it out on sites with lots of Auto-x'ers, but the V700 is probably a LOT wider than its indicated size kind of like Hoosiers (where a 205 might be nearly as wide as a 215 in a different brand, etc.).

https://www.innovativetuning.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=1221

Just replace it. It will feel like its made out of Nerf material. Group-N tranny mount you can't even flex from standing on it (at least I couldn't with my massive 150 lbs).

Just another possibility it could be the bearing on the input shaft. If you pay close attention you can hear it in my Legacy, which has 201k on it. As long as clutch operation stays normal and the noise does not get tremendously louder... don't worry about it.

Umm... Not familiar with rally cars driving in the snow I guess... That snow is packed, and he had studded snow tires. But yes, it would be hard to drive through 4' deep powder. http://www.rallysportmag.com.au/home/index.php?option=com_...=2

Ken Block = New Dukes of Hazzard w/ a Subaru.

Ding ding ding! This is the issue the overwhelming majority of the time on the BBS. I have experienced it several times, also. Check to make sure the brake fluid is not a fraction of an inch below the full mark when it does this. Generally, you do not want to keep adding brake fluid as the light is usually an indicator your brake pads are low and the extra volume needed to push the pads lowers the resevoir. But in this case its ok as long as you check your pads on occasion. :cool: Also try jiggling the float inside the resevoir and make sure it moves smoothly.

http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=BOR&MfrPartNumber=D559&PartType=193&PTSet=A