86BRATMAN

The main 4wd indicator switch is on the lever inside the cabin. you should have a reverse switch and a low range switch on the transmission, it's been so long since I've laid eyes on one. But I think that's it.

pm'd you.

I'll send you one for cost of shipping to try, if it fixes it you can pay the remainder of what we had agreed on for the ecu.

DL models here had single range 4wd, as well well as other DL models of the ea81 cars, so it's probably been swapped at some point in its life.

The mode door actuator is the electric motor that changes the settings on the heater box itself. Its way up under the dash at the top of the heater box itself. I can snap you a picture of the piece this evening after work. I have the dash out of my second 97 legacy so the actuator is in easy view.

Either soda or other spilled drink has gotten into the control unit or you have a bad mode door actuator. There was a thread in the last week or so about cleaning the buttons.

95 and maybe 96 have the 140mph speedo, and 97-99 have 120mph across the board, difference being ej25 equiped cars(whether outback, gt, or lsi) got red indicator needles, and the ej22 cars got white needles. The wiring in the dash makes no difference, it just sends the signals.

Looking at that pic, that's under your outback isn't it? If I'm not mistaken the diff mount nuts and bolts will all be 17mm, and the driveshaft to flange are 12mm. If those back ones don't play fair you could always try a trusty old pipe wrench on them. And lots and lots of pb blast or kroil.

You absolutely have to do a dedicated thread lost brat, I have always wished they'd made a brat on the 95-99 legacy platform, best of the best. Are you going to try to integrate the rest of the Legacy body lines with the brat?

Weighed one of the old school 3.70 lsd units when I was selling it a few months back, 65lbs wet. not the heaviest thing in the world but definitely awkward to deal with on your back.

His was driver's side, and was a front transmission crossmember bolt, used a hole saw, can't remember the size now. But we took many, many measurements to make sure it was in the right spot. I'm going to have to do a rear trailing arm bolt sooner or later on mine. I'd be afraid to say where the one you're after is going to fall in the cabin Gary, those things are far up. If it was me, I'd almost consider doing it from underneath and welding a new nut in place and plating the frame. Looking at my other 97 with the dash out, it appears that the bolts you're after will fall under the ac condenser, way up there.

I can't tell you how damn scared I was of cross threading those bolts when I changed out my bushing a few weeks ago, they are ridiculously far forward, the manual transmission's crossmember bolts end up right under your feet in the cabin on the up slope of the floorboard. If that helps give you an idea of where these may be, had to do the floor cutting in my friend's GT.

double post, sorry

Crank is off, not really hard to do timing these things. That's one reason it's important to turn them over by hand a few times after the tensioner does its thing. I completely understand the o2 sensor being in the way of the timing cover after the exhaust redesign on the 06 cars.

You can use a knuckle from 90-99 legacy, 93-07 Impreza (as long as it's not 06/07 wrx with the 2 piston rear brakes or sti), 98-08 Forester. All these have the same basic knuckles, with variations of abs sensor type and disc or drum brakes.

I told OP there is for sure a fwd ea82t wagon and a fwd xt6 that I have had hands on, just need to verify that the arms are in good shape. Hopefully we can have him back on the road again soon.

I've always been told to recheck the lugs after 100 miles on aluminum wheels, hopefully it was something that simple.

If the weather holds I'll be going to this same yard Saturday if the weather holds. Let me know which side you need and I'll check them out.

I know where two or three 2wd's are in a junkyard up here. Not sure what kind of condition they'll be in.

Axle failure.

Never a bad idea to check the clearances. But with that particular engine it will be a pain to actually adjust them, not to mention it will involve some math to figure out the replacement shim size due to the way this engine is set up.

pay close attention to the connector when ordering off ebay. There are two different plugs I've seen used on 97's. One of which will cost you around $12 shipped the other $9 shipped. I've ordered both in the last two months.

Honestly I'd feel better for shipping purposed to just sell you the whole cluster. Just pm me an offer.

Had to clean the switches on my mom's old 98 almost every other month. Either from one of her coke cans or one of dad's coffee cups. Did almost exactly as yours. I got them to finally start being more careful when one of them fried the stock radio.

On your wagon with just a straight Forester strut swap you'll end up getting a decent lift, but the front will sit slightly higher than the rear. Not enough to hinder performance in any way, but it is noticeable to look at. My sedan on Forester suspension sat roughly half an inch lower in the rear, the wagon being heavier would a little bit more "saggy"