86BRATMAN

I think it should be donated to the East Coast Subaru Foundation. That way instead of another one biting the dust. It can recieve a wiring transplant and live on for another few years in the land of the old school deprived.

You can get a 1996 5spd Outback with the ej22. Only combination of the rugged looking outbacks that you will find it in, unless it been swapped. No more torsion bar suspension, or adjustability these days. Full struts all around. A very much more refined ride than what you once had.

Congrats D. Its about time you got her... Now... How mad were the parents?

I'm afraid that the only thing staring at you when you take off the door panel is the crank rod, and a bunch of metal. You've still got to take the window off its track and swap out the whole thing. I'd rather pull the window out so it doesn't get broken.

Oem Subaru ej20 n/a pistons.

He was talking about the n/a ej20. Those do exist. And will swap directly into place of an n/a ej22.

As it comes time for the window regularor swap. I just want to say good luck and we're all counting on you.

Why would we want to spray something that conducts electricity good on our arcing spark plug wires?

I think the short ram style would workout for you better, just because of the way the cai would fit. From my experiences, the cai is perfectly safe. It really comes down to what you can feel safe about. I once had a cai on a 94 integra gsr, lowered 2.5 inches, and I had to drive through a bad downpour, and ended up going through standing water without realizing it. I made it out ok. But I think the hiney bit a hole in the seat...

That will do fine... To further prove my statement of the RS intakes fitting the picture ther is of a blue RS car, lol.

The installation of a cold air isn't that more involved than removing the snorkus from your fender well. And they do provide better, colder air in the real world than a shorty. Dyno results don't reflect the on road, real life effectiveness of a cold air intake. Good point Nip, I think it is unoiled from them.

I didn't want to mention this type intake for a MAF equiped car. Because we all know what can become of that equation. I don't believe the cold air would suit you either because it is designed for stock geometry. And well... Thats why your stocker doesn't work.

Just don't plagerize it... Your teacher may read end wrench...

You'll have to either get custom, or modify the headgaskets. And then you run into the problem of the ej22 heads pumping the compression way up when put onto the ej25. You'd need aftermarket pistons for that. I've got a spare ej22t shortblock that I'd let go pretty reasonable to a good home if interested pm me.

IIRC from the pics it was still unibody, no subframe in the rear. Just made the hangers and reinforced them onto the subieframe

Now come on guys... Big hoes need attention too:grin:

Nope, n/a ej22's are all open deck. You can stick one in there, but I would recommend at least putting a set off ej22t pistons in there. They can hold about 300 hp with those pistons and the right tune. Best illustration of block difference that I know of. http://legacycentral.org/library/literature/deck.htm

If you are looking for a cheap price and still a good product. www.cosmoracing.com would be a place to look. I got one of their intakes off ebay for my friends late 01 RS a few years back.

I'm not saying its something to laugh at. But you know what I mean.

You can use any of the intake options availible for an 01 2.5RS. Actually you can go up untill they started back with the MAF sensor and you'll be good.

Absolutely none of it. All you'll need is a philips head screw driver and a 10mm.

WRONG, WRONG, and WRONG... n/a ej20 will bolt directy to the ej22 exhaust the ecu will run it fine. people are running ej25's off stock ej22 ecu's everyday... wiring... use the original ej22 wiring and sensors, there will be NO problem.

When did 14's become retardedly fast?

Timeserts will be more expensive, but they will last longer than the factory aluminum thread would thing about. Providing you do it right.

Yep, that cruddy old, probably rusted together heat shielding has to come off... The bolts were so badly rusted that I had to cut it all off after I pulled the motor for mine.