bendecker
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Everything posted by bendecker
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I like the plastidip idea. Thanks. I've also thought about side molding for the same reasons that you mentioned. Also, the more I look at it, the more I think thinner with side molding might have a more streamlined look.
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Details #2: The front is held down by two fabricated gutter clamps and some 3/4" polypropelyne webbing with a plastic tension piece and stainless steel hardware: I got the plywood to curve by cranking it down and lightly spraying it with water from a spray bottle for a couple of days in a warm garage. It holds its shape really well and will permanently stay that way once it's been glassed. I also did an angle cut from the front to back. The goal was to make it as wide as possible, but have it transition into the roof with a cleaner look: I'm also toying with painting large letters across the front that say "SUBARU" or "BRAT". Comments...? Ideas to improve it? Does anyone else have people ride in the back of their Brats? Thanks for tuning in...
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Details #1: The deflector is made from a 2-foot by 4-foot piece of 1/4-inch birch plywood from Lowe's (really nice stuff to work with). It's clamped in the back using pvc conduit clamps to a Yakima 1A roof rack that, in turn clamps to the gutters. There are only two pictured, but I've drilled holes for 4 and will use all of them once it's fiberglassed and painted: The spacers are 1/8-inch Baltic birch plywood left over from a cabinet project. They allow the dam to lie flat on the bar with room for the tops of the towers:
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My kids love riding in the back of my '81 Brat, especially when we go on adventures in the desert. Unfortunately, kids grow and their heads now poke up over the roof if they sit up straight. On our last trip, this was a problem -- they got pretty uncomfortable at speeds over about 40mph because of the wind. So... I started thinking... and a project was born... The DIY Back Seat Wind Dam! It's still in process, but has pretty much settled out as far as design goes (although, I might round the corners so it looks more like commercial ones...) On the to-do list is to fiberglass the plywood so it's completely waterproof, sand it smooth, and paint it either white or black (opinions?). It will look far less redneck when done, I promise.
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Did anyone else check out the "Making Of" video? It's awesome too! These made my day :-)
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There is a thread about a 1981 Brat in Rancho Cordova, CA in the Junkyard sightings forum that may have the part you need on it. I suggest a request to pay for the part, shipping and some extra for the "beverages while wrenching" fund and you may very well get your handle: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136634-81-brat-ranco-cordova-ca/
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bendecker replied to Gnuman's topic in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVXOur '96 Legacy wagon failed at idle too (they had the gall to call it a "gross polluter" ). It was a single bad O2 sensor. I didn't replace it myself, so I don't know exactly what was involved, but it wasn't expensive. It passed with flying colors after that. BTW, our's is a young pup -- only 240k miles.
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Perfect. Thanks for your replies!
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I used silicone. It releases really easily, but is expensive and tends to warp over time if you don't keep an original in it. You can crank out a lot of parts quickly with it, though, and it's really easy to work with. The detail is so perfect you can see lettering and even really minor scratches that were in the original. BTW, I got motivated and just added some more pics of parts I've made, including the plastic parts that go between the back headrests and the vertical pieces they slide on.
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Thanks for the note. That's definitely the cheapest solution, but I'd still like to have a set of unmodified hubs in my backup stash. Anyone....?
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Quick question for the gurus: I'm starting to look for some front hubs for my '81 Brat to drill for the 6-lug conversion (I want to keep the stock ones around to be able to change back). Are there any particular years that interchange and, more importantly, are there any years to avoid? I saw a listing for some on ebay, but it says they will only fit 78-79. Rear hubs are still readily available new (albeit expensive), so I'm only in need of the fronts. Also, anyone have a set that they might be willing to part with? Thanks! -Ben
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Nicely done. I don't remember the details, but I spent a TON of time on it and definitely had trouble getting the bottom piece in.
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If you find one that is dented or bent, you can take it to a good bumper restoration company. They will straighten it out and re-chrome it for you. The last time I had this done it as about $150.00. However, if you go that route, be sure to paint the back of the bumper with something like SEM Rust Shield. When they re-chrome, they etch the heck out of the back of the bumper and it starts to rust much faster than the factory original. A good coating of Rust Shield helps slow that waaaaay down.
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I looked forever for them with no luck. Several people said that Gen2 inserts (which are metal and much better built, but still pretty darn thin!) would work, but they need trimming. Well... they kind of work... The vertical sides went in just fine. But the curve is different for the top and bottom pieces. Expect some buckling when you install them if you go this route. It's better than nothing, but certainly not perfect.
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That is one nice looking subie! Well done
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Gen1 water pumps make an awful lot of rattling noise when they are on their last legs. It sounds like the engine is falling apart. Luckily, they are really easy to get to and it's a pretty simple repair. I remember the first time I replaced one, the dealer wanted over $200.00 claiming it was a several hour job (this was back in the late 80's). I had never done it before and it took 45 minutes and the part at the time was $40.00 or so. As far as the shifter goes, I've replaced the bushings in two older subies. It's very normal. The rattle is a very high pitched one that, in my experience, would stop when I would grab the shifter handle and put some pressure on it ala going into 4wd. I wouldn't be surprised at all if the bushings are no longer available, but with some creativity you can probably make a replacement from parts readily available at a good hardware store. I try to find nylon bushings (which I recently modified to fit on my tailgate) or, the cone washer idea from ls650v sounds like it did the trick. Alternator note: mine went bad once and the fuel pump just stopped. Dead in the water. It never dawned on me to jumper it. Great idea! Good luck.
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I know THAT feeling! LOL. The bed of my Brat is the "temporary storage" place for all things that don't want to be put away right now by all members of the family. It takes me a 1/2 hour to put it all away anytime I want to drive her! -Ben
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Just picked mine up! I would love to see a Gen1 design, if you're ever so inclined. -Ben
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I don't know how bad it would be, but I did it a few years back and have had no problems. I used a dremel tool. It took longer than I originally thought, but worked. Even with the bigger holes, it was still a beast to get a couple of the bolts back in. No leaks yet!
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The NOS factory built carb has been installed and my Brat is purring like a kitten again. There were a couple of plumbing changes that needed to be made -- specifically a couple of vacuum ports that needed to be plugged and one hose needed be lengthened. Pretty simple stuff. In short, success!!
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Great tip on the model paint. I've been toying with the idea of touching up my emblem as well and your's looks really good!
