98obster

+1 or put crappy wheelset on-cause after 9 months without moving the tires will have flat spots. but I would recommend it be driven, mmm reminds me of: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4MxPoxxt7n0

I'm pulling a knock sensor cel in the morning-within a 1/2 mile of home-no noticable knock. I clear it and it doesn't come back until the next morning. don't know if the 92 has a KS. Maybe the e85 mix I'm using is the problem?. anyway I need to check continuity and probably order one-pretty important part.

I cannot overemphasize how convenient it is to be driving along and the cel lights up-look it up on the list of codes I have printed out-circle and put a date next to it and promptly clear the code with my Scangauge II. Who, as a Subaru owner (1996+), doesn't have one of these?

I'm in the middle of my 4eat flush. they say the filter came in '98-for the '99 models I presume. Conveniently, when I drain the pan, it is almost exactly 5 quarts. 1st and 2nd flush I filled it back up with 4 quarts of cheaper store brand ATF and a quart of Valvoline Max life. 3rd flush I am putting all Valvoline back in (5 quarts). I will probably do another flush and put in the last 5 quarts of Valvoline a few days later. I'm doing this over a weeks time. as for the plugs: small hands and small tools-mmm, what's the smallest torque wrench that you have?

what are symptoms of awd going? torque bind? CEL? handling? so, is it okay to flush the AT with new/different brand of fluid?

PDR is pure profit. the only justice is that techs succomb to arthritis after 9 years or so. but yeah, if the paint doesn't crack and depending on the size of the stone-paintless dent removal is the best defense against a salvage title.

awd rebuild=Duty C replace?

sad, but I doubt it's totalled. Northern and northestern CO has just been freaky so far, tornado, hail. I think everyone around here need 2 subies; drive the beater to work during hail season and garage your pride and joy. We're forcasted to get snow down to 8500 ft tonight in the northern Mtns.

131k on my 4eat. last flush 2 years ago-it's due. my question is, 2 years ago I had it "power flushed" with unknown ATF. Am I committed to power flushes now or could I the pump and dump method 4 quarts at time. can I screw things up by mixed the different brands? I guess I would just drive around a couple miles before I did the next dump. Thanks. Anyone use any conditioners in the 4eat? jon

let sit for a while drain oil til it stops refill with oil and keep track of how much you are adding (the filter holds about .2 quart iirc) check PCV, normal engine operation will push oil up the dip stick so don't go off that reading yeah, your car is laughing on the inside

your CEL does function, right? it maybe running rich b/c of an exhaust leak before the cat? "I could be wrong-but that's just my opinion"-Dennis Miller

first, please cease putting your nose in front of the tailpipe:slobber: no codes? you would think you would be throwing one. how about resetting the ECU? if you don't have a wet plug then the cat is maybe suspect. maybe injectors are clogged? how does it run, idle?

I just had the same problem. I ordered boot kit and a GCK axle on amazon (no core cost). I installed the new axle (quality seems good) and I will eventually rebuild the original axle. rebooting while still attached to the hub just seemed a pain since I don't have a lift or garage and would rather clean everything up right inside.

around mid 20s/high 20s if everything is running properly. it's AWD so it won't "coast" with the same efficiency of the lighter FWDs. I love my 98 obs in the winter but during the summer I'm keeping it between 2k-2500 rpm and averaging 33-35 on the hwy. lots of weight reduction also involved. good luck

1) make the legacy as attractive as possible to sell it. 2) find and buy the car you want-Forester Foresters (Impreza based) are the tallest Subaru-that's why I put 2000 Forester strut/springs on my 98 OBS: I don't know about lifting legacies-sounds like you've done some homework though. I guess you have to decide where you want to put your money- put it into a '96 legacy that after you mod, lift, etc. you may not be able to get your investment back (it's yours till it dies basically) or sell the legacy now while you can (assuming it's in good shape and the engine/drivetrain is basically tight) and find your Forester. see http://www.cars101.com to see which Forester (2001) you want. For off road-I think the auto trans does a better job I think the decision is easier if you are looking at a Forester right now that you might want-do you have to sell your Lego first before you buy? Basically, save your money to get the platform you want and then you can go to town on that. I don't think lifting a Legacy will be equal to Forester and may be more costly than your down payment etc. just some thoughts but it's always good to be grateful for what you have now. Perhaps your struts/springs are tired and just getting s newer used stock set would help. I also applaud your willingness to keep your Legacy and make it work but if you want a Forester then by all means get one-if you want great gas mileage get a honda civic.

Unless you can confirm recent maintenance you should gradually replace all fluids; Tranny, rear diff and front fluids, power steering (AT), radiator, etc. Yes, fresh A/T fluid is red but shouldn't be too noticable on dip stick-a flush in probably in order for peace of mind sake. I doubt the resistor is unplugged or an issue. some have unplugged it to give harder and firmer shifting (in all gears). I did it and got a CEL so I plugged it back in. reset the ECU (disconnect the neg. battery terminal and step on the brake to drain capacitors and give it 10-15 minutes). I believe this will also reset the TCU. 1) check level 2) ecu reset 3) get flush 4) see #3 Also, starting out from a stop just try to drive the car normally applying consistent throttle to allow the TCU to re-map shift points. Also, something I have recently found. check the PCV valve or better yet just replace it. my shifting was noticably improved-don't know exactly why though.

is this the case only when cold or does it shift better after warmed up? Well, you are experiencing the 4eat at its finest. It's very robust and believe it or not, there is actually less wear on the clutch plate this way than a smooth shift experience. if you aren't throwing CEL codes (excessive shift shock) then you might look at your AT flush interval (~2 years) depending on your driving. Also, I actually believe that applying a constant foot on the gas may be less confusing for the TCU and after time the 1-2 shift may smooth out some. bottom line, I don't think you're experiencing anything unusual from what you've said. Edit: the shift resistor is the long aluminum thingy mounted anterior on the passenger strut tower (below all the other stuff). it has one connector to it.

How does tire pressure affect circumference? OCD? who as a subaru owner isn't ocd about tires and tire pressure-I check mine once a week at least. Mostly to make sure the rears are equal-the rear diff likes it that way. Also, I'm thinking it is more important to have left and right tires being the same circ. than front to rear?

replace PCV valve

^^^ Are the Ebay "master timing belt kits" the real deal-i.e., OE correct part # etc. seems like $200 is reasonable for the kit.

edit: deleted-damn server crap really pissing me off-reply posted but took me to 404 page. wtf?

IIRC, Colorado has (sells) more Subies per capita than any other state. But, in Colorado, Utah or Washington, Oregon a subie mechanic could write their own ticket.

Any problems with this kit on the 98 imprezas 2.2 sohc? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-1996-Subaru-Legacy-Impreza-Master-Timing-Belt-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33625QQihZ013QQitemZ230209464301QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

if the engine is tight (no oil leaks) and the hopefully the timing belt has just been replaced, this is a good one. cars101.com describes changes including improve auto tranny (i hope it's auto-very robust and dependable). the 99 also had the improved roller legacy wheel bearings which are less pron to failure and one less expense on your new purchase. 71K? this car easily has 150k left or more. buy it unless they're asking 10,000 good luck

Hondaslayer, my inspiration. got hold of a set of 2000 forester strut/springs. Kept the forester tophats because they are much bigger and quite frankly are made for the taller assembly. but it required a slight drilling and slotting of the rear strut towers. finding your swap set is like searching for the holy grail. mine have 94k on them but rides like a new car. if you can buy 2 set-it will be cheaper and last longer than 1 new set. [/img] I don't think I'll be changing struts for the seasons-this is the OBSter now. fyi, check with auto brokers-they have parts cars galore and sometimes you get lucky. Jon