Milemaker13

Its a funny little feature on some of the cars that stops the car on a hill from rolling backward. It seems unnessary, but it is nice once in a while. I thought WTF when I first heard. Then I went about trying it at hill stops n' lights. Mine works good. It is the same as holding the hand brake. When you press both the clutch and the brake pedal at the same time, hillholder holds the brake for you, alowing you to use your right foot for the gas instead of the brake. It helps on steep hills in traffic. Its kinda cool, if it works well. I'll keep mine! It goes unnoticed unless you intend to use it, then it is already there for you!

What do you do on the spots where it is rusted thru? Why used oil? Got a ton of that here. How hot do you get the oil?

Hey Gang, The loyale is getting some of the typical rust. I wouls like to stop or slow it down alot. The car only has 120k, still new! I heard someone mention something about a hot oil treatment. Sounds good, hot oil gets into all of the tiny spaces, prevents rust. Will this weaken already rusted metal? Has anybody ever heard of this before? I tried to search, but didn;t find what I was reading before. You guys don't like when I pull up old threads any way! So, any other good methods? Sand, repair , paint is OK for panels, but what about crossmembers, frame rails, unibody areas, shock mounts, ect? Hard to sand and paint. So let the hot oil soak in? What about spraying w/ WD-40? Some reason I fear rusted metal seperating or something. What do you think?

Too much info, Dude. Your friend probally wouldn't like it!

Heck yeah! My 92 has the stock 2 speaker system. Big 8 watt speakers with no cones left! Still works ok, its a radio. But I want to bump some Marly and the like. I really like to cruise around and "relax". A good stereo helps out. I am putting a pioneer cd player in. I had it and the speakers are currenttly being gathered from friends, ebay, ect! Can't wait:cool:

To actually mount the new radio in my 92 loyale, I took the old one out, and used the stock brackets on the new radio. They actually screwed right in almost perfect. To get the extra depth, I used the farthest back position, which then I drilled a hole in the bracket to use a 2nd theaded hole in the radio. It looked pretty standard, check out this option. For the deeper bezel, I will probally do something very similar to 2.7s homemade dash kit. See pic above! I will try to post a pic of the brackets I am talking about.

Thanks alot for that! Says fram USED to be good. Guess I'm livin in the past on the words of old men! Will swap my orange bomb for a NAPA filter.

Is this true?! I have been under the impression they were good, if not real good filters. I have always gotten the regular orange fram filters! You guys are sayin NAPA filters are good? DANG!

Dude, Thanks.

Is this stuff any good? Sound like it is real good. Has anybody ever used it? Any problems or miracles?

As has been said, stay away from the "high mileage" stuff, it swells your seals, and if you ever stop using it they will shrink back down and leak like a sieve. I have to agree here. Always been told not to switch to synthetic then back to dyno. This is probally a good reason for it. It makes alot of sense.

The tilt adj.- is that tilt the glass front to back or in and out of the car? I was hoping it would tilt the glass INTO the car a little (in towards the other window). If it isn't, I wonder if I could move the track a little. Bend it some? My door/hinge plates are tweeked, so maybe the only way will be to tweek the window track? I do have a chilton (or haynes?) , thats where I orignally got the idea to adj. the window. But you guys alway got the skinny on these tricky little jobs! Thanks guys!

Actually, I think I do need the angle adjusters. The height is not really the problem, its the angle. Like I said, the door got tweeked and retweeked. I think if I can nose the top in just a hair or two, it might just work. I would love to be able to get in and just close the door!

Where the heck did you read this one?! Can I list mine there too?

By the way, its usually safer to talk politics and religon then it is oil nipper Wow, that must be one HOT topic!!!

Hey Gang! When I got my 92 loyale, the drivers door was kinda tweeked. The pin had broke, and the dood swung too far open- thus tweeking the hinges and body, I belive. I made a tweeker bar and used it against the hinges, bending them back a little. This helped alot, now I can drive the car normally. The door closes fine with the window down (at least a crack). But if the window is up, the glass hits the weather seal incorrectly, causing a gap. What I have been doing is just roll the window down a crack, close the door, and roll the window back up. It sucks. To close the door from the outside with the window up (like at night) I actually just push on the window to shut the door. Being pushed in a little lets it seat properly. I read something about adjusting the window track, how is this done? Thanks a million!

Phone's ringin' Dude!

Hi everybody! Happy new year! What is everyones preferances on regular oil, and why? I tried to search this up, but somehow got nothin- maybe the system has a hangover!

Ha Ha! This is funny! You had me worried for just a moment:eek:

New pump? I have very good PSI on the guage, maybe its the worn lifters. If I continue to run it this way, is it going to cause engine damage? I've read about a supposed 10% decrease in total engine life, or something. Whats that on 300k? Not much! And as for the RTV I applied, I also read something here about putting rtv where the case split meets some bolts? Whats that about?

So, I got everything back together today. I put a new water pump and oil pump seals in there. I fired it up and it still ticks on and off just like before. When I put the mickey mouse seal in, I "lubed" it up with blue RTV. Any ideas why it is still ticking?

Thanks Grossgary! I figured as much. I'm not sure those other guys got my question exactly. You hit the nail right on the head! I left it off before I put it back on. I will look for a new pully, but for now it should be ok. I'd rather the belt rub a little than have a little steel ring become tangled up down there!!!:cool:

Do you think if I added freon with red dye in it, it would show up? Then, can I change the o-ring myself? Why not right?

Hey gang, I figure to determin if my AC is low on freon by jumping the psi switch out, and see if it will switch on. If it does, I will try this "freeze 12" stuff to recharge it. Now it will not turn on at all, I have applied power to the clutch, and it engaged just fine. Spinning it did not get cold. What do you guys think? It is a 1992 Loyale EA82 4x4 wagon, 5 spd.

I too put a tiny nick in my rotor, but did it when I broke the nut free on the pully. I deburred it, and you're right- it is so tiny!! However, you having been thru it already, I have to assume I will see that psi drop. Like I said in the other thread, I need that new pully because the inner ring has seperated anyway. Can I find a whole new pump already to go in?