Milemaker13

Wish I had a metric scale so I could measure the actual belt width. I have the same width as the orignal, I'm sure that s right. I just put back on the orignals, because the stores are closed here. They are working great. Need to be changed, but still OK. That cheap ************ sucks. I'm gonna find new goodyears tomarrow.

So, I should probably try to get brand name belts? These belts did seem to have stretched already. Like I said, I am out of adjustment. If that is true, 15 mm wide and 38.5 and 45 inches- then I can just specify that size right? Or go smaller using the same format or "code". Whatever I want? Thanks

I replaced my v belts on my loyale recently, now they are loose and squeeling.and I have no more agjustment. They are too long. When I got them the AZ guy had trouble finding the right size. Orignally I had mitsubishi belts #73036GA120 and #73036GA130. The guy gave me 1 duralast #15450 and 1 kelly-springfield 15385. Are these the correct belts? The lengths are 110 cm and 98 cm, respectivly. I wonder if I needed thicker belts? Or just shorter? The new belts also have the numbers 11AV1145 and 11AV0980 on them. Thanks guys!

Hey , anybody got a secret subaru wave or nod to share? This girl here wants to know... Shes got a '02 outback sport. Of course, I'm in the Loyale.

They will be soon!

Right, I have a 84 2wd 3at gl sedan that isn't worth $20 to most soob guys and girls. But to some dude on the street here, its a running car that drives nice. Its woth $500 here. Probally dump it for 3. Uninformed buyer here is going to be your best shot. 4x4 soob that looks nice and runs good. Regular people will like it more that the soob community, I think.

That brat looks great!

Do you have enuff coolant in the system? What your describing is weird. If you thermo is new, your temp guage shows cold and you are blowing cold air I would say you might be low on coolant. Have you checked the coolant level in the radatior? The blower being finickey is probably jsut the resistor block or the switch. Does it work on high? There is no resistor for high, so it should always work unless it is totally destroyed. There should be no relay for warmup (you are able to blow cold air at first normally - B4 the car warms up) Also, you should look into the temp. sender on the engine. It goes bad sometimes. I got one new for about $5. Your heater core should be fine unless you smell antifreeze inside the car (its aweful!)

Yeah, fix that leak! Maybe around the windsheild or cowling. I'd try to dry out the board also- no harm in trying. Was the car running ok before you discovered the wet ECU? I second the notion of other electrical corrosion under your dash- check it out

Dude- Those plates are SWEET! You did all that work yourself? Looks like you laser cut those plates (or very steady hand with a plasma torch) and definatly had a press break to bend 'em. Very very nice. Heck, think about producing a basic set and sell them worldwide. You know that we all would snap them up! PS- Hows the Leone handle over there? (I know the awnser!)

My 92 Loyale 5 sp does the same thing once in awhile. Seems like if I turn off the lights (which are usually left on) the dash illumination sometimes won't turn back on. Once it came back by it self suddenly, once I turned the car and lights off, turned the lights on while the car was off, then started the car and the dash was back! Strange. I assume a flaky switch or possibly a connector. Unfortunatly, to find it now is nearly impossible- given its intermittency. I fear it will have to get worse before it gets better.:-\

Real good thought... I willdefinatly have to check that out. Who knows!

Yes yes- in check. Thats the route I want to go. This car was $400. Runs awesome, drives even better (you know). I just want the body to last almost as long as the drive train. I will try this method next time I change the oil.

The car wants to get high when ever that code comes up. I suggest pulling to the side and getting chinese eyes!

What does your temp guage say? Does your heater blower work at all? On high? In my 92 loyale, the blower works weather the car is warm or ice cold. There is no temp. relay controlling the blower. Maybe someone put one in thinking it would improve heating. If your car is not heatin up, check your thermostat. If your blower motor doesn't work, it might be a fuse or the resistor block that provides slow blower speeds. I think it is behind the glove box(?) Search up heater blower resistor, you should find something. I say replace your thermostat to start with. Its real easy.

This car starts and runs fine. The guy said it wouldn't go over 45mph? After letting it idle for like 20- 30 min, the ECU light was on. What is my first step in finding the fault? 84 gl 2wd sedan. N/A carb. 3 sp auto.

I agree. But stuff that is not just rust holding rust together, that should be fine, and bye- bye rust. Right? messy, but solid old school tech.

Tell him to trade the 4 runner for a beat up soob. He could probably con some unsuspecting soul!

I kinda thought about this too. When I change the oil, its hot. So if I pour it right into a sprayer, I can spray the rust and underbody some right there w/o warming the oil some other way. What does anybody think about the oil causing seperation of rusted metal? Sounds funny right? But I think it can happen, perhaps with any penatrant.

You can buy cosmoline today in spray cans from industrial supply places. I know we have it over in the machine shop. But I don't think it will stop rust. I think it protects new metal, like dies and gun barrels.

Lets all simmer down a bit... and go with a Loyale. Great commuter car (MPG, roomy enuff, no worries), will tackle any on road snow condition with grace and ease, and gets down them gravel roads no problem!

So true.

Soobs are the best, BUT- Its the driver, not the car. I drive the 92 Loyale, they drive everything else. Why am I always out front?

I think we have a winner!!

92 Loyale 5 sp. 121k- mostly orignal. Still fresh!