Rooster2

As Mikeec03 stated, the crush washer used on the oil pan drain bolt can be re-used multiple times. I have always changed my oil, so am confident on this subject. Crush washers can be purchased at the dealership parts department for little money, if and when needed. I, too am not confident that the oil change guys at Walmart can be trusted. They don't hire the smartest people at Walmart, so be aware they can make mistakes. The oil changes shops do a decent oil change, but always try to sell you things you don't want or need, like new wiper blades, or air cleaner filter. I usually tell them I am going to be trading in the car, and don't want to put any money into it. That gets them off my back. Well, saying this is true, but in reality, I won't be trading in the car for another 5 or 6 years, so it is not telling a lie. .

What does the amount of the tax and penalty come to?

99 and 00 models are known for tranny "delayed forward engagement," If this is your problem, there is an easy cheap fix, and no need to replace the tranny. If so, respond, and I will be glad to advise the solution.

Thanks, gotter done. It wasn't the easiest thing to figure out.

Yes, I see two screws on each side down low, but can't figure out how to get a screw driver on screw heads. The bottom edge of glove box door is in the way. I tried a "Z" shaped screwdriver, but no luck with it.

I can't figure how to remove the glove box. I removed 2 screws from the top, but now I don't know what to do. I figure someone here is smarter then me, to give me good directions. Thanks................Rooster2

Good idea..........when I pulled one from a yard, the glove box was already pulled, so made for an easy pull. I will do that later today, when it warms up a little outside.

Thanks to all for the help, especially to Gloyale. Your description of "The resistor block is in the Ducting, between the Blower and the Evap core. rectangular 4 pin plug", was precisely the info I needed to find one in a wrecking yard. Otherwise, I would not really know exactly what I was looking for. Resistor unit I bought was from a 98 Impreza Outback Sport, but figure the resistor unit is interchangeable with a Legacy car. Now to install it.

Thanks guys for the advise. As I posted earlier, I have an HVAC unit that I can install. It appears looking through holes in the plastic housing, that there are copper windings attached to the fan speed rotary switch shaft. I can swap it in to see if it fixes the problems, if not then I search behind the glove box - but toward the centerline of the car as advised. Thanx!

Thanks Texan for the link. I am not sure what I am seeing on the link diagrams, but looks like it may be built into the dashboard HVAC unit. I happen to have a replacement unit handy, so may install that unit to see if it cures my problem. Thanx!

My heater fan motor will only operate on fastest speed. I think the problem must be in resistor cluster. Where is this located?? Is it built into the HVAC controls in dashboard?? Thanks for any help.

When Advance checked the output of the alternator, was it about 14 amps?

A little extra oil won't hurt anything, if just slightly above the "full" mark.

Yes, PO420 code could come a fuel leak. I wouldn't be surprised if the leak is at the fuel filler pipe, where fuel is pumped into the tank. I had to replace both on my 98 and 99 Outbacks. That filler pipe starts leaking because of rust, when wet road crud gets trapped between it, and the plastic covering shield that surrounds it. Suggest removing the plastic shield to inspect the condition of the fill pipe for rust. Both of mine had severe rust spots that allowed gas vapor to be released. This was the cause of my PO420 code, as the vapor leak was not allowing proper vacuum within the fuel system. When replacing the fill pipes, I did not replace the plastic shielding. Replacement fill pipes can be ordered on line. Suggest you drain and fill your auto tranny three times with new ATF. All the drain and refills are needed, as only half of the ATF can be drained at one time. The repeated fills does a good job of replacing old ATF.

another thought.............there may be an accumulation of old tree leaves and crap that can find its way to the motor and squirrel cage on the inside of the firewall. I thought I had a bad motor, but turned out to be an accumulation of junk. It is worth checking it out

Yea, I can sense that on my two Subies. I have always felt that it is normal.

On an 08, there is some potential of external head gasket leaks. External, in that the coolant leaks out of the engine in small quantities. So, look for coolant leaks under the hood, and when up on a lift. Only danger is eventually running low on coolant. Also, while up on a lift, check for rust. I imagine Buffalo uses a lot of salt on the roads during snow season, so rust is a problem on all cars in your area. Subarus are not prone to rust, but constant heavy doses of salt will rust all cars. Other then that, Subarus are trouble free. Any future work of replacing belts, starter, or alternator are easily accessed under the hood. Only difficult job is replacing spark plugs, but that is not done often. Subaru owners are very loyal to the brand. They have an excellent reputation of not breaking down. They are easy to maintain, and have a great safety reputation. Welcome to Subaru!

Front seats will not interchange, as Forester seats sit higher off the floor vs Legacy, but I have heard of guys moving the GT cushions onto a Forester seat frame successfully.

The 99 and 00 Leggie models are prone to AT sticky valves, usually with delayed forward engagement problem, when shifting from Park to Drive. That doesn't seem to be your case, but adding 15 oz. of Trans-X could help the shifting. Add last, after 3X ATF drain and fills.

I replaced CV axle on my 98 OBW. I bought a completely new axle from Advance Auto Parts, sold under their in house name labeled Car Quest. Cost about $65, and yes it is manufactured in China .I bought the same axle for my 99 OBW over a year ago, and it has performed great.

Don't recommend pulling out the A/C gear. Just minimal weight loss, and minimal increase in fuel millage is not worth the work involved. Better to work and time on the A/C system to get it working again.

Been a while since I have replaced mine, so my memory is fuzzy on particulars. I do remember removing trim pieces around the climate control and radio. You may have to remove the ash tray to gain access to the trim piece screws, but can't quite remember. Once trim removed, there are 4 screws you remove to be able to pull out the climate control unit. The thermostat cable/wire unclips for complete removal.

+1 on controls getting gummed up. Using the cup holder, puts any drink spills right into the buttons on the climate control. Sugar from soft drinks really gums up the works. On wife's 98 OBW, I repeatedly freed up stuck buttons with windex, wiped away with paper towels. After a while that didn't work, got a replacement from a yard. Pretty easy to install. I have seen replacement units on ebay. I think replacing the unit is prolly the best way to go, if cleaning doesn't work.

Thanks.......................Rooster2

Yes, I have heard of this. The oil does stop oxidation (rust), However, it is really a messy, but like said........sure is cheap!