Gloyale

Assmebling fresh case halves, yes, use a new one. But not in cases where "the engines out so I might as well" if it's not leaking......I leave it alone. If I do HAVE to press one in to an assembled block, I use a 3" ABS end cap(about 3.5" in OD) as a driver.

I disagree. Fabbing shifter and crossmemeber to fit precisely is not easy. And buying another trans, EJ flywheel, and a new clutch.....will cost more than an adapter and redrilled flywheel. To each there own.

You don't need to get anything else. Drop the 2.2 and it's matching y-pipe right in. Are you worried about the EGR CEL? it has no effect on how the car drives. Heck, have you even looked at the 2.2, if it's in a automatic car....it could have an EGR. They don't have Emmisions in your part of Wisconsin do they? I thought that was only in the bigger cities like Milwaukee, Madison, etc...? Y-pipe is a bolt on affair. No need to swap any heads, intakes, anything. Just drop in the 2.2 and the y-pipe. DONE

4) you use the 2.2 intake. 2.5 intake won't bolt up. 5) Because you are using a similar year range donor 2.2, in your case it should be plug and play. If your 2.2 does not have an EGR, you will get a code for that, but otherwise no issues and drives great. If you were using an OBD-I engine (90-94), you would use the 2.2 intake, but you would remove the 2.5 (engine side) wiring and throttle body , adn transfer the wiring harness, and Throttle body from the 2.5 onto the 2.2 intake.

Adapter plates are fine great. Hundreds of guys use them. You can get them from ranging from $100-$200, or make one. And the flywheel can be hogged out with a dremel and a carbide bit in about an hour. From there, zero modification to the car. Seems like the easier, tried and true, bolt in way to go.

Interferance. However, I've seen a few that have broken belts, right at start up or light throttle cruising with an automatic......that survived. (Manual trans driving at speed will turn the engine after belt breaks:mad:) It may be worth it to hang a belt on it and then do a compression test. Might of got lucky.

I don't think he's disagreeing with the law, Neither am I. I think what he means, or at least what I meant.....is that with the small change in numbers, it adjusts the equation only a bit. Pedal travel is shortened, but pedal effort required to produce the same force at the wheels is still within the real of what a human and a Vac booster can do. The resulting stiff pedal feels good to some types of drivers, and I think makes brakes quicker to respond, easier to modulate. It's similar to a short shifter mod. Quicker shifts, but with less leverage requires a stronger hand. Some people like it, others find it rough.

In the trooper that bearing goes with a carrier piece, that should mate up to the EA82 clucth fork. when I suggested the bearing, i thought a new one would include the carrier. could source one from a wrecker?

Pull the inspection covers and verify the timing belt first. burned valve would be an all the time thing, not occassional unless it's just starting.

I agree that inspecting the condition of the cone washer, and cleaning up any burrs or lips on it, is important. BUT.....I have gotten MANY remaned, and even more "new"(china) axles that made clicking noise out of the box. I pulled a few of the bad ones apart for inspection. Not just EA ones, but some really bad EJ ones too (had to try 5 axles by the time all said and done with my mom's H6 outback.) No cone washers on EJs so I am sure that wasn't the issue. Worst 2: 1) inner joint had 5 balls correct size, and one visibly smaller than others. Noisy as a one man band. (EA81 "new") 2) Inner joint had an EXTRA 7th ball rattling inside "under" the joint inside the cup. Made terrible clicking, and bangs when the suspension compressed. (91 Legacy, reman)

Not sure, but I think you're 87 GL-10 would be MPFI, not SPFI. Look at the top of the thermosatat housing. If there is a little black unit with 2 wires coming out the top....it's MPFI.....and that little black unit is you're IAC valve. Check that it's connector gets power when running. Check the hoses going to and from it for cracks. You can even remove it and clean it out....test it with 12v and watch it move.

Uhh... have you done it? I've driven an EA81 with a legacy master. Stops on a dime, way better than stock. It does increase the "stiff" feel at the pedal.....Perhaps if there was no booster, and we were talking purely mechanical/hydrualic braking, your insight would apply. But in a real world, with power assist, force required at the pedal is not a problem. Bottom line, brakes feel tighter, and stop the car better. Espescially on a lifted rig.

Did you install the EA82 proportioning valve?

Take an old hub or drum, and hammer 2 studs out. Then bolt it to you're rim, and then use the 2 open holes to mark your spot to drill. I actually leave the hub bolted on and use it as a guide, drilling straight though with a 9/16 bit. Warning, if you do this....the hub might not want to hold a stud anymore....so use a junk one you don't need again later.

Uh....yeah they do. My donor was a 96 Outback w/EJ22 and 5mt. NOT a California car. Do your OBD-II cars throw any CEL?

Adjust the TPS

Tailights stop working before or after the switch broke? Do they work in "running light" position? Do the interior lights, and front marker lights work? If they don't...it's the whole circuit. I do know that the lights run through that switch....so if it's broke that could be why.

+1 Stupid manual adjusting brakes. Easy to upgrade to EA82 style w/ automatic adjusting. *edit for not reading far enough before responding. IDK, but I think you get solid feel from the hillholder because it is locking pressure in the ciruit, so you don't have to "build" it more by pumping. At this point i'd say try a new Master. Upgrade to a Legacy one and you'll have a NICE stiff pedal, as the larger master pushes more fluid.

Needs to be a 90-94 95-99 are about 3/4" longer.

Popping out the intake means the timing belt has skipped a tooth. Otherwise, it means you have a burned valve.

Sorry...my bad.....I was confused.

Pros and cons to each. I have an EJ swapped car with each. My lifted wagon is OBD-I. PROS) Easy to get whole parts cars cheap, dual port engine opens up header options, and no rev limiting built into ECU. CONS) The only downside I see with it is that stripping the harness is a little more "cluster F****D" with the big SMJ and some akward harness routing. Also, no real scanner compatible live data (unless you happen to have an old "select monitor" from a dealer. My Street car is OBD-II PROS) Easier harness strip, no SMJ, engines have a bit more torque and roller rockers, and if you leave the OBD-II port, hooks up to any scanner and stream data. donor cars (and parts) are newer. CONS) Rev limited to 6k. Pickier in limp mode (if VSS code set, rev limited to 4k) Throws more CELs for Fuel temp sensor, Fuel pressure sensor(these don't seem to affect driving). donor cars are newer/higher cost

Drill the rims = 8 holes Drill the hubs = 16 holes + cost of installing studs. I personally am fine drilling the rims. Granted, it limits the selection, as you need to use steel, and with a flat center. But, If you happen to need a new hub in the future, you can just throw another one on. If you mess up drilling the rims, you can simply start over and drill again between the other holes. The only time I would drill hubs for 6 lug would be on a "street" subaru, where you want to run an alloy rim with a lowprofile. For wheeling it's way simpler, and cheaper to drill wheels. And If your subaru needs replacment hubs, you can bolt them on without having to modify again.

No TCU, it a 3AT.....purely mechanical

Just fought this same ussue in a 97 outback. it was a misadjusted TPS. Also made for odd high idling. Basically, when coasting, at light throttle, the ECU is thinking the throttle is totally closed......which triggers fuel cut for coasting. Doesn't do it up hill because you have a bit more foot in the throttle. Have someone with a streaming data scanner check the TPS adjustment and correct it. I garauntee that's the issue.