Gloyale

Take the top off the float bowl. unscrew the brass cap over the slow idle passage. (it's the one inline with the Anti-dieseling solenoid) Under it is the slow idle emulsion tube. Unscrew it. 99% chance there is crud in the bottom of the tube. Blow it out. This should correct idle issue. Good idea to remove all the jets and tubes one by one and blow them out while you're in there.

When you did the headgaskets, did you clean the carbon buildup off the piston tops? That carbon buildup does 2 things. Raises compression, and glows redhot like charcoal. Both will exacerbate pinging.

4EAT automatic equipped cars from 88-90 use the 25 spline.

I am assuming you mean for using an EJ trans in an EA car? I shortened my EA shift linkage and stay each by about 2".

OPtion 1) If you want to keep your EA trans: Swap on an EJ bellhousing (swap your diff into it first) Wire up your EJ engine with just the EJ ECU. Pros: less trans cost. Cons: EA trans computer won't like the EJ tps signal. Shifting may be affected......you'll definately get a flashing POWER light (tranny codes) Option 2) Same as above, except l eave the EJ TCU and wirng in your harness. Run the EA trans off the EJ TCU. You'll have to swap connectors or otherwise make the wiring on your trans mate to the EJ harness. But if you do, then the EJ TCU will run your existing trans. Pros: EJ TCU will not thow code for TPS. EJ TCU is faster, better computer. Cons: more wiring. Adapting connectrs on trans. This is the most "wiring" option. Option 3) Use an EJ trans. This would be better since the EJ TCU connectors will match up. Pros: No need to swap bells. Slighly improved rear transfer output. Cons: Need to swap a matching rear diff. (3.9, 4.11, 4.44) No EJ's came with the 3.7 in your car now. Also need to drill a few holes in the trans crossmember as EJ mounts differ slightly to the EA ones. For all options driveline length is not an issue provided you are using a 97 or earlier trans. Same as EA.

Your mileage may suffer. The ECU will have to go though it's "learning curve" of ajusting MAF an O2 readings. Something is not right. You've got something backfeeding the Ignition relay when running. I would just install a diode on the IG switched wire. Are you Sure you've got the ALT wired correctly? does your Charge light come on. To the OP. Sorry for the hijack. Hopefully this is still somewhat on topic. Alt wiring is an important and no so commonly discussed aspect of the EJ swap. the wiring isn't really that hard. PM me if you'd like help or even would like to have me strip and label your harness.

Don't. Won't even really work at all on a manual. If it did it would be all through the LSD of the center and prolly smoke it pretty quick. With an Auto, you can put it in FWD, then you'd have to take the shaft out and leave both cups installed, in the diff, and in the hub. Or else the Diff will drain fluid, and the bearing could come out of the hub.

89 is 2 books. Book one, section 1, 2, and 3. (intro, Engine, Trans) Book two, Sections 4, 5, and 6 (Brakes and suspension, Body, Electrical) If you have book one, it should have trans stuff in it.

shove a 33 ohm resitor into the connectors for each. Done.

Some of the stock ECU setups have the Main power for the harness connected to the field wire of the Alt. It uses this for "self shutoff control" I have never looked at a EJ20H harness/ECU so I don't know if it's the same but........ On the Early EJ22 harnesses it is hte yellow wire off the alt that connects to the main IG. switched power for the harness (igniter, Coil, solenoids, etc..) If you have that yellow wire from harness hooked to a battery source, and not tied in with the ALT. That could be it. Not sure, just a guess. But when I do swaps, I always Excite the alt using the same switched circuit as the harness power.

I'm using a Legacy rear driveline section and a early GL automatic front section. The legacy rear is longer. Had to fab a few tabs to move the carrier bearing forward and inch. Still exerimenting, haven't gotten it driving yet. Also, I opened up the AWD trans and swapped 23 spline stubs into it so I can pull EA82 axles out of the pile all day long and not need the turbo axles.

VSS is hooked up to teh EJ harness, but is it still properly connected to the EA Cruise? Also, which cruise do you have? is it dealler installed or the factory setup. Factory = electric vac pump Dealer = Big round canister for storing intake vacuum. These systems are finicky, and need a well sealed vac system and a good one way on the tank. But check the easy stuff first. There is a switch on the clutch pedal, and 2 on the brake pedal. The brake pedal switch closest to the gas pedal is for the light. Check proper brkae light operation. The other brake switch, and the one on the clutch are for the cruise. They are wired as a loop for the cruise computer. Depressing either pedal breaks the loop and cancels cruise. So check that both are "closed" when the pedals are up. Perhaps the Rubber stop that depresses the clutch pedal one is missing? Adjust the switch on the clutch and brake pedal so that they have continuity (closed) when the pedals are "up". Depressing either pedal breaks that loop and cancels cruise.

the digidash cars used all different connectors and setup. You can't just swap harnesses, unless you swap the ENTIRE forward harness for the car. Or like most who take them out (the more common swap) adn install analogs is to just cut and solder the needed wires at the dash connector. No easy way to do it though. IMO, the digidashes are worthless. Temp gauges stop working, they flash in and out of brightness, and the red ones in particular are IMPOSSIBLE to read with a little sun glare. Also, there are issues getting the digi tach to read rpms with an EJ swap. Save you time, and do something else cool to your subaru instead.

Rear bearing on the upper shaft of the trans is going out.

Ok so the governor valve is bolted to a plate that should spin when the car is driven. If you just inspected and replaced the vavle, you could still have an issue with the gear. What you are describing is a governor issue for sure. So....did you actually pull the governor body out, and inspect the driven gear? Does the speedo work? If the speedo works, then the teeth on the pinion that drive the governor are probably fine. If you find the driven gear is stripped, you can knock out the roll pin that holds the gear on, and replace just the driven gear. $37 bucks from the dealership. Same for all years and models of 3AT.

All the 4wd EA81's had those. It ties in under the bumper to the mounts for those "gaurds" he removed to make his new bar. Protects the lower radiator core support. It's a pretty stout bar, attached to some plate that wraps under and bolts to the underside of the radiator core support. I wish they had equipped EA82 cars with something like that.

The switch is probably gummed up. It lives up high on the very rear of the trans, above the driveline. It threads out of the trans case, and then you can clean it out, test it and so on. If it needs replaced they are fairly cheap.

This would be awesome. I didn't want to mess with having to install a hydraulic pedal setup on my 84. Still want one, but if there is a cable clutch option I will wait for that.

He'd have to change the window glass, the front track, and the mirror mounts into his doors. Or swap entire doors.

Okay, to clarify, you guys are talking about the Early VLSD Turbolegacy diffs as the ones with non symetrical stubs. Non turbo Legos used old style bolt on stubs. Later models, with open diffs that used the male stubbed CV are symetrical. 95-04+. Only those early VLSDs in the Turbo Legacies and SVXs use those funky asymetrcal stubs. Scott, try mating 95-99 Legacy or Outback rear inner cups onto some EA shafts. that should work. Also, just FYI, the hollow bolt in stubs will slip into the diff and work. You might even be able to grind a notch for a circlip.

EJ18 and EJ22 rods and crank are identical. Smaller cylinder bores, and smaller pistons. Can't be more than than 2 or 3 lbs difference in weight.

90-94 ECU's it's the Red/Blue stripe wire that then goes into the diode pack(to prevent backfeed when A/C and defrost run the fan), and then out as White/Red stripe to fan. The ECU controls the ground side, so you need to provide power to the fan, and the relay will provide the ground. I preffer to have mine on a realy, and the ECU triggers the ground side of the coil on the relay.

Green = test mode. tests for current faults White (or black for MPFI) = Read. reads stored codes. this is the most useful one. BOTH Green and White toghether = CLEAR mode. Hook up both, run it til the CEL flashes...disconnect. codes cleared. Leave both disconnected for regular driving.

Not unless the car was 5 lug converted. Perhaps they are Puegot rims?

Rob, I'm in Portland right now check your PM for my phone # I'll come by later and check it out.