Gloyale

"Right Stuff" ftw!

Most of the changes are in wire colors, and connector shapes. not a big deal, until you need to track down a specific wire at a specific connector.

Crank sensor is in the Disty. Pull the cap off the disty, and check that the rotor is secured to the disty shaft. There is a little screw that likes to fall out.....when it does, the rotor spins and makes spark but at totally random timing.

Works with no load, but the contacts can't conduct the 300-400 or so amps needed to crank the engine. Pull the cap of the end of the solenoid, and replace the copper contacts. Should be less than $15 bucks. Or just get a whole rebuilt starter, for $100+

NGK or Denso only. Bosch copper if you must. (not the platinums, the little electrode buried in ceramic burns down) Subaru has specifically warned against champion plugs in some of their literature.

Factory Subaru Bolts would be a 12mm head. But, when you buy bolts from the hardware or autoparts stores, they almost always have a 13mm head. Either is fine, just the 8mm x 1.25 thread pitch needs to match.

Yeah.... they are the best. I have 85,86,88,89,and 90.......Full Sets:grin: Sadly, I only have section 2/3 of the 87 books. 87 is the screwball year.

See my first post. Option 1 or 2 would both leave you with the FT4wd, with lockable center. BTW....You do no you shouldn't use the Diff lock on pavement. It basically locks you in 4wd, allowing no slip in the center diff.

Light has power to it already. Switch connects it through to ground.

Uh......pushbutton? Hi/Lo? Though you said it was a Fulltime 4WD, which in an XT6 should be single range?

Ha! just experienced that tonight. We are having record flooding on the Mary's River here in Philomath, OR. Just 2 get around, back and forth to my house last night and tonight I've had 5 or 6 very deep crossings. Every route has some flooding. Puttin the snorkel to use! Sorry no pics....upload when I can get 'em

You'll need the engine, engine management, and the exhaust header. Then from there, you have 2 or 3 choices on how to install it. 1) Redrill your flywheel and use an adapter plate EJ to EA style, with you're existing trans, and trans mounts, etc....(most "bolt on", simple method) 2) since your XT6 trans is single range FT4wd , split your existing FT4wd case, and then transfer the guts into a standard EJ 5spd case from 90-98 model. Then use standard EJ flywheel and clutch choices(best offroad option) 3) drop in a complete EJ tranny (AWD) and modify crossmember, shifter, and driveline to fit (best performance option)

Hmm... that looks pretty familiar..... On another note, here's mine: The pic doesn't do justice to how precarious this was, I desperately needed a spotter to back down safely. I just remember calling out "HELLLLLLLP! on the CB.

Uhmmm....... correct me if I'm wrong, but couldn't he just redrill his existing flywheel(whatever it's dimensions) and then install his whole existing clutch assembly with the EJ? I mean.......he's got all the parts to work with the trans......just needs to fit his flywheel to the new engine.....correct? So he'd still just need to buy an EA82 2wd 5spd kit any time he needed it?

Holy Old Threads Batman:headbang: Uhhhh..... Not sure about the car though.

use the 2.5 intake and wiring to avoid IAC differences.

Actually, it's not what limits it. You could block down the subframe, and the wheels stay centered. Big issue with big tires on an EJ is the spring perch on the rear struts. 235/75/15 is the biggest you can fit without getting spacers or wider offset wheels. And even those won't fit with a 2" lift without some trimming of the fenders at the corners.

The one way check valve in the Brake booster hose iced up. Causes a "no power assist" brake situation. Pull the hose from the booster, and spray wd-40 inside the hose, and into the port on the booster. That should prevent it. Also, simply STOMPING the brake pedal a few times after car is started, but before driving should usually free it up.

85-88 Isuzu trooper TOB should work. Large inner diameter, fits EA82 snout. Small contact ring, like the EA81 TOB, should mate up to the EA81 PP fingers.

Almost nothing is a "bolt on" swap. You can mate the 2.2 to your 5spd, but you will need an adapter plate, and a redrilled 5spd flywheel.(redrilled to fit on the EJ22) It will be totally reliable, as long as you can resist lots of full throttle launches. Hammer on it hard, and the 5spd won't hold up long. You should read the EA to EJ swap sticky thread.

First, make sure the defrost is off. (fan runs anytime Defrost is on) If it still does same thing, Sounds like the temp sensor is unplugged. Check on the top of the engine, passenger side, under the rear of the manifold. Triangular shaped connector with 3 pins.

This isn't true. After 87, all NA 3ats were 3.9. The 3.9 on the cover confirms this. But....since the covers can be swapped, and it could have happened, so I would perhaps pull the rear diff cover, and count the # of pinion teeth and Ring teeth.

I would replace all the PCV hoses, and put good clamps on there ends. Also check the Vac lines for the Fuel Pressure reg, and Evap solenoids. Hard rubber gets cracked and leaks vacuum.

Forrester struts are not going to lift an 99 outback. The struts are the same height. Also, Forrester trailing arms are not longer. It's the trailing arm "bracket" that is different. It drops the mount point lower on Forresters and Outbacks vs. standard Legacy or Imp. Not applicable to the Outback. If you want a lift, Use spacers for strut tops(1"), King Springs(1-1/2"), or a full 3" or bigger lift kit.

Most likely exhaust heat sheilds rattling. Likes to happen around 3000-4000 rpms.