Gloyale

It will. spray some PB or WD-40 on it. take the bolts all the way out. I'll check my inbox.

Don't drop the crossmember. Just unbolt both lockdowns on the coupler, slide it all the way up the steering column, until the bottom end is free, then pull it back off the other way.

The non-USDM SOHC EJ20 is a non interference. Same heads as an EJ18 and EJ22 SOHC. Although fitted with roller follower, solid rockers(adjustable) Basically the same as our EJ22 here.

Only the cat back section would fit (kinduv) And you wouldn't really see any gains. Without mods to the engine, there really isn't a point in a "free flowing" exhaust. Even if you gain a HP or two at the top end, you'll lose low end grunt from lack of backpressure.

that's excactly my problem with it. Plus you are weakening a cast piece. Cast likes to crack. Also, what happens when the hub get's worn? now you gotta find another EA81 hub and drill it. just opinions but definately don't redrill those aluminum alloys.

I modified an EA82 crossmember to mount to the EA81 chassis. Sk'o accomplished the same thing by using 3" wide blocks for his lift....offseting the holes to make the difference. Either way, it's a huge improvement. Part from EA82 Crossmember, rack, control arms, radius rods (mounts perfectly to the EA81 plates) knuckles hubs and brakes.

Actually, the early EJ pumps are excactly the same as the "L" series pumps. Around 95 they beefed em up a bit. For racks, IDK........not much of a difference between EJ and "L" series. Honestly, if you have power steering in the car, just use that. Converting to a power EJ rack is a good option IF you don't already have power. But if you've got a working EA power rack in there just mate it to the EJ lines and call it good.

Uhh.... no codes if you do it right. I've used 3 Auto ECU's now. NO CODES. You have to do one of two things: 1) cut the AT/MT discrimination wire, and wire up the ECU correctly for a MT, with Nuetral switch (since you're RX is already MPFI, your trans should have the switch) 2) If you don't have a neutral switch, leave the AT/MT pin grounded, so it thinks it's in an Auto. Then the trick is you have to tell it it's in "P" all the time so ground the "P" pin.

Who do I order a set from?

I am in Corvallis too. I've rebuilt many of these hitachi carbs. Give me a call if you need some help. 541-207-6544 or 541-929-4140

You can use and EJ and ECU from an Automatic car no problem.

He talked to me:grin: I make them. PM me for more info.

How many other 25 year old turbo cars have you owned?

If power didn't affect steering then AWD would have no advantage over RDW or FWD alone. Having drivin EJ swapped EA81s and EA82s both with and without power steering. I am very much of the opinion that power steering adds to the ability of the driver to put the power to the road through the twisty stuff. I currently have 2 non-power steering Subarus, 1 is a FWD XT, the other is an EJ swapped and AWD swapped EA82 wagon. Handling either through really twisty roads, hard cornering, gets hard on the arms. Requires so much work that it takes away from the fun. Also makes powerslides and drifting harder.

New for 2012 !!! My 1986 GL "Outback Limited" 2" suspension lift (1 inch F.crossmember drop) 195/65/15 tires on redrilled yotas 1996 EJ22, 1996 5spd AWD 4.11 gearbox Heated Seats (all from same donor outback) Extras: Custom 2 tone paint Body Colored mirrors Di-chro Glass Shifter CB Outback badges And the same old Storm Suber 6 Inch lift EJ 18 5spd D/R EA82 Front suspension EA82 coilovers rear 235/75/15 on Isuzu wheels And the old Sedan 1" Front lift (strut tops and crossmember) CB Stock EA81, 3AT, 4wd. Optional sunroof, Power windows, AC, Power steering, and Cruise.

EA82 works great Putting an EJ rack into an EA81 you need to cutshorter, and extend threads.

A D/R swap into a Legacy is almost more work/money than putting an EJ into an old GL/Loyale. You still need an adapter plate, redrilled flywheel.....plus a lengthened driveline, modified shifter (depends on lift size) and either split the D/R and put 25 spline stubs in it, or get 23 spline FWD impreza axles. Plus lifts for a Legacy are more expensive (at least mine are:brow:) And for wheel well clearance......either car will need trimming to fit a 28" or bigger. And the legacy struts have low spring perches that limit tire size to about 26.5" with stock struts, about 29-30" with Outback struts. In contrast, there are EA82s with 30+ tires on them. I personally would go EA82 chassis with an EJ18 or EJ22 swap.

This is generally because they leak, and you end up riding down the road with no suspension.

Sounds like an EA81 hatch. Espescially since you say it has an EA81 engine, and a 4spd confirms this. Much shorter wheelbase than the EA81 wagons/sedans. EA81 wagons and sedans were eleminated in 85, but the brats continued til 87, and the hatches (Standards) til 89. You've got one of the last. The EA82 3 door coupe, looks like a GL/Loyale in the front end, and has the same wheelbase as the EA82 wagon/sedan.

EJ rack and inner tierods. EA82 outer tierods. Adjustability still within range. Now, EJ rack into an EA81???? not sure, might have to cut down the EJ inner tierods and thread them a bit further down.

I was not talking about that. I think in this statement : "Also, one of the rubber dampener things that connects the MT to the crossmember has separated. Is there any way to re-adhere the rubber to the metal that it has separated from?" He's talking about the trans mount itself. And if it's torn, he needs a new one. Simply bolting all toghether won't hold the trans down. The trans will sit fine under acceleration, but the tail will lift in reverse, or under decelleration/engine braking.

Tach Cable??? You mean speedo cable? No, brat Speedo cable will install right into the EJ 5spd. You WILL want to pull your dash cluster, and the wiring for the VSS and the CEL (ECS) light. read GD's SPFI swap for details about those wires.

Weld a bent rod onto the rod the actuated the latch (runs vertically from the hanlde to the latch) cut a slot in the panel for the rod to stick out of to the inside. Now just pull up on the rod when you want to open. A second rod could be added to the lock actuator easily (runs along bottom of the door to the electric actuator)

Uhhh....... I don't think you get it. He's talking about the trans mount....not the rubber washers for the crossmember. Once the trans mounts rip, get new ones. they don't get held toghether by the mounting bolts. You can use ones from any EA82 4wd 5spd, Single or Dual range.