Gloyale

96 Manual trans OUtback would be a 2.2 *(roller cams, Hydro adjuster, Single exhaust port) Get new solenoid contacts for the starter. Then replace ALTERNATOR.

Funny.... I was about to suggest pulling the carpet and checking that junction. It was the red wires where they are crimped toghether, correct?

For a single range trans, you CAN use the gears, Diff, and 4wd (rear) sections from it inside an EJ case (front sections) Then you need no adapter, and can use any EJ Flywheel and Clutches. This cannot be done with a D/R trans. The Upper shafts are different, and won't go into an EJ case. *Unless you could get an E/J dual range case from outside USDM

The throw of the hydro slave cylinder is much shorter than the cable travel. I'm not sure you'd have enough travel for that to work. That's why the ball pivot is further on the Hydros, changes the fulcrum of the "See-Saw" action of the fork so the short throw at the slave equals a longer throw at the Throw-out.

If you can find a way to mount a pivot stud in the correct location, and the Slave too, then you could probably just use the Hydro clutch fork, Basically the same as the AWD boxes, but the lockbolt on the Shift shaft is harder to access. And you will need to disconnect the Hi/lo linkage from the lever on the front part of the case. No modification of the D/R trans ot the engine nessecary. Use a standard EA/EJ adapterplate. and an EA clutch and flywheel.

Black white wire grounds the "CHARGE" light on the dash when the Alt produces no power. When the Alt puts out power, the voltage on the wire goes high, so the light on the dash goes out. This light IS needed to properly produce a field for the Alt.

Great job. I hope you put a Fusible link in the 4AWG wire to the Batt. Without one, if the alt has an internal short, or that wire gets grounded any other way, there should be a safety. The factory charge wire goes through a Fusible link.

Blower motor check the relay under the dash. Tach.....hmmm..... check the yellow wire on the coil - is connected. Voltgauge jumping with the signals is not a big issue.

Do the EJ swap first. The trans will hold up[ fine for a while. If you go with an EJ18, you'll have better power and torque than your current engine. Cheaper, less likely to break the 3at, and easily upgradeable later to 2.2 look for an old beat up body impreza.

Fusible link, or some other problem on the main White wire. If all else fails, run a new wire from Alt to battery with a heavy fusible link. Remove the top of the carb, and unscrew the emulsion tubes and blow them out with compressed air. Replace the O-rings on the air horns and it'll run great.

99 Legacy 4eat is a Phase II type. Should be able to use any 99+ Forrester or Outback trans. The Phase I trans won't work. Differnet electronics, different length.

Yes I've owned Solid axle trucks. My dad has an 83 Toyota. I've had a Ford F-350. Both stock. My 6 inch lifted EA81 (ea82 front suspension) Handles better than either of them. The center of gravity in a STOCK toyota truck is higher than my Lifted EA81. Craziest vehichle I've ever driven was an Isuzu trooper with 3 inch body lift and 33's. Felt like it was gonna role turning right from a stop sign. C'mon.....think about it......... Solid axles handle better than independant suspension? not hardly. Unless we are talking boulder crawling:headbang:

Use a TOB from early Nissan pickups, or early Isuzu trooper (newly discovered interchange)

EA transer case will bolt to the EJ case and vice versa. Problem is, the gearsets. You can't use an EA D/R upper shaft gears, and EJ lower shaft gears toghether. And EJ lower shafts are larger diameter, so you can't press EA gears onto them. The ONLY combo to get a D/R with 4.11 or 4.44 would be to source a set of gears from an EA "Fulltime" D/R gears from an RX. that's the on;y set that will work on the EA upper shaft, and the EJ lower shaft. Now, with this combo, you still would need to use the EJ AWD tailsection. Welding it would just make it locked 4wd, not selectable.

Yeah, an experience like that is what gave me the idea to re-glue all of my Black rubber door gaurds back on my EA82 wagon. (85, 86 only....they went back to clips for 87+) Ripped all my panels off, cleaned them thoroughly, let em sit in the sun till they were flexible. Then I put a bead of right stuff on, and used masking tape to hold them in place till the right stuff cured. 6 months later, they are still stuck on TIGHT. Right stuff makes great removable threadlocker too! A little smear on a bolt, and it's not coming out until someone takes it out. Back to the post.....Trans guts? 4.11 EJ box guts into ???? Won't work in a D/R case. S/R works great.

That's a wee bit of a lowball estimate. A good headset (stone, or OE) is $150-200. And we all know there's no point doing HG's without a new T-belt, waterpump, and an oil pump reseal. It's also a good idea to get heads surfaced, although with a 2.2, not as critical as a 2.5 That said, I totally agree that re-sealing a running engine is a better bet that throwing it out for an unknown gamble, that could need HG's with-in a year. It certainly wouldn't be any more expensive than a "low miles" 2.2

This is hogwash. A Subaru with a lift is WAAAAY more stable in every way to a lifted toyota. ESPESCIALLY, an older solid front axle one. The key to a safe EA81 lift is to crossbrace the rear blocks so that they can't sway side to side. I built a brace that bolts in between the body and the blocks, and then diagonally down to the middle where it ties in to the front part of the diff mount. Kinda like |\/|

Another option is to open up the D/R trans, and put 25 spline stubs in Actually, since the EA82 D/R is shorter than the AWD trans, you need to Lengthen the driveline. 1-3/4 ~ 2 inches works perfect. You can modify the front Legacy trans member to accept the D/R mounts. The rear sections of the Leg crossmember won't be used. Use an EA82 D/R shifter......have to fab a mount for the one bolt at the shifter end to the body. This is from experience putting a D/R in this car.

Steal one from the AC condensor plug.....IIRC it's the same as the Cam sensor.

just buy a tracker......and drive that.

I use "right Stuff" for everything. I mean everything. Engines, trans, as loctite.....and side molding adhesive.

30's are pretty big. Need 4" or 6" l;ift with lots of trimming. 30's will also tax the engine and clutch and axles. 27" or 28" is a much better match to the drivetrain. Shifter will need some working with anything over a 2" lift. Brake lines may need lengthed with 4" and 6" lifts. (depends, you can modify the existing lines mount points a bit to get more slack)

Neither is the EJ:brow: I mean......uh.....slap in a used EA82 4wd drive clutch on a whatever ol' rusty flywheel you got. Either, or, and everything between will work.

99 is a phase II engine. the heads are different, so the manifold won't fit the older heads. Heads are the same virtually to the Phase II SOHC 2.5, so you have some options. 1. Find a 99 (phase II) 2.2, for a direct fit. In 99 Legacies (non-outback) and Imps. Too bad your in IA, there is a wrecking yard 20mi from my house that has one in a 99 Leg......140k and it purrs....bad tranny. PM me for the guys # if you want. 2. You could directly swap in a 2000-2005 2.5 from Outback, Legacy or Forrester. Plug the EGR port on the drivers head, use your Original EJ22 intake and exhaust for a bolt in, plug and play. 3. With a swap of throttle bodies, Intake Harness, and maybe Temp senders....you can use an Older Phase I engine. Requires some creativity and perhaps living with a CEL for a few things...???

Did you install a proper dogbone (pitch stopper) The engine will rock around all over, and eventually break the mounts without a good solid pitch stopper. It also improves shifting since the rump roast of the trans won't be tipping up and down under Ac/Decelaration.