Gloyale

front as in front axle? Or the front arm of the rear suspension? If the front, you are reffering to the bolts that hold the rear pivot of the control arm? or of the inner pivot on the engine crossmember. I am having a hard time visuallizing what part of the control arm bolts to any crossmember other than the Engine support. FWIW, The rear pivot of the control arms may have been moved by the alignment guys.

You got it backwards. When the clutch is depressed, the Input of the trans is not being driven. I.E. no way for the input bearing to make noise. When the clutch is out, the TO bearing is supposed to come out of contact with the PP. But the quill the TO bearing slides on gets gummed up and rough and holds the bearing against the Pressure Plate fingers. If the quill is too bad, you can get clutch sets with a repair sleeve. Trust us, it's the throw out bearing. You may be able to make some of the noise go away by installing a spring on the clutch for to pull the fork away from the bearing when the clutch is not depressed. I've had to do this even with new bearings sometimes, so you may just want to plan on it. I've had to add return springs to almost every soob I've owned.....first time I start hearing that little chirping.

Those bent arms are not from forklift. 99 was the last year that suspension design was used on Legacy Outbacks and they are all bent. Every one of the 99's are this way It threw me off too at first. But I've had 7 or 8 now in the shop.....99 model outbacks........and they have those bent arms. All 4 of them have an arc that starts about 2/3rds of the way out. I think it was to give a cleaner look underneath from the rear, and a tad more clearance. You must have replaced them with straight arms from an earlier Imp, Legacy or Outback, or from a Forrester (which continued with straight arms till the redesign in 09? ) It's an oddball thing only on the 99's But anyhow, it doesn't really matter to this thread because Gary's 2002 is a totally different rear end setup.

The HLA's in the early legacy get clogged with nasty, cruddy oil. However, they are easy to service. Remove the valve covers. Then, remove the 6 bolts that hold the rocker arms to the head. *note* do not remove the bolts that are set in at a slant, they are the retainers for the rockers on the pivot. You just want the 6 cap bolts that hold the whole assembly on. With the assmebly removed, one at a time, use pliers to pull the HLA's from teh tip of each rocker. ONE AT A TIME. Take the HLA, and submerge it in a small pan of new, clean motor oil. Place it *tip down* int he pan, and press the ball in the bottom of it with a small pin, while compressing the whole thing down. You'll get a squirt of dirty oil and the HLA will compress, and refill with clean oil. Repeat, until you can compress the HLA fully and it springs back when released. It can take a bit for each one, but once it's compressing right and fully priming (no compression without the pin) then reinstall it and pull the next one. Time consuming, but really pretty easy. And when you are done, you will have very quite valves, and a better running engine.

The one in the upper left here is the fuel tank vent. The box is the evap solenoid. It's not nessecary unless you are needing to pass an emmisions inspection. Yes, under the intake. Lot's easier to get at with the intake off. The electrical sensor there is the Knock sensor. The big vent in the block is a PCV vent.

Well, disconnecting the cable might help. If the valve is not defective. But here's the thing. If it's not defvective, it's just out of adjustment, you can correct that through proper cable tension, and also shimming a washer under the rear mount. That will make it so it won't engage unless you are really on a "hill" of a good slant. HH's engaging on flat ground is not supposed to happen, and can't happen if you put the valve on a steeper angle. Now if it's actually defective, as in locking randomly, then that means the pin that keeps the check ball off the seat of the valve has rusted away. If that's happened, the action of the HH is already not really connected to the cable. Disconnectiing the cable will not help....the valve will actually need removed or replaced. The later is doubtful. Likely if you set the cable correct, and shim the valve so it takes being on a steeper slant to activate it then you won't have troubles. Grinding and hard to get in first sounds like the clutch cable is out of adjustment. If that's the case, then the hill holder could be out of adjustment too. Remember, set the clutch cable, then adjust the hill holder.

Dan's Independant Subaru repair 5260 Hwy 99W Corvallis, OR Completed LBCC collision repair program in '98

Fusible link wire soldered into the end section where it will connect to batt or block.

You are flat wrong here. You can buy Buytyl rolls specifically today for windshields. Buytyl is what is in there from the factory. I went to school for Collision Repair and I know what I am talking about. This is another case of "generalized" (as in General Motors) auto knowledge run amok. Like the "you have to replace head bolts everytime" TTY bolts. It is something that is important for some cars, but not every car. Not Subaru's Urathane bonding is very important in most GM cars and some others since the 80's. That is because they rely on the windshield to be the structure of the car. ANd also because there is not a "lip" for the windshield to sit into, so wind could actually get under and lift it up. This is all true. Just not applicable to older (or really even newer) Subaru's

No, it isn't. But a good drill and the ability to cut some strips of flat bar are required. IIRC, there also may be a few tack welds on the outback seats with height adjust. these will need to be ground. The early legacy seats are easier, no grinding. This is assuming going the route of swapping hte EA rails to the Outback seats. essentially adapting them to bolt in to an unmodified body. It may be possible to swap rails nad all, simply by drilling soem new holes in the body.

FWIW Quoted today for loyale wagon glass replacement. new glass = $90 installation and adhesive = $125 Total of $215. *trim not included

Butyl tape in the roll is MADE for installing windshields. You don't need no damn Urathane, this isn't a GM structurally bond type. Use butyl tape and a tube of black butyl acetane sealant (they do sell it in tubes. I've done 3 fronts and a rear wagon hatch glass this way now.

Devices on the strut tower are a MAP type sensor and switching solenoid to switch it in and out of the loop. I'm running a 96 Legacy 2.2 and harness/ECU in my old GL. The donor car was wrecked and those sensors on the strut tower where destroyed. The car runs fine without them. Betting you're problem is the Cam gear on the drivers side.

You would love the EJ swap in that thing. SPFI would kinda be a waste. You'd still be stripping a harness and wiring in a fuel injection pump and all that. All you need for an EJ swap beyond that is the adapter and a machined flywheel. BTW, I am just inland on Hwy. 20 over the hills in Corvallis. I have adapters and Flywheels. And I have done several SPFI and EJ swaps if you just need pointers or if you're over your head or just straight want to hire someone to do it all. Send me a Private Message (PM) here on the board if you want to know more. Oh yeah, I also have lift kits:grin:

87 DL FWD = SPFI 87 GL FWD = SPFI 87 DL 4wd = SPFI 87 GL 4wd *CAL*=SPFI 87 GL 4wd *49 state* = CARB! FTL

does it seem to *dart* into left turns, but *drag* itself through rights? That is what I experienced with bad Radius rod bushings and bent/shifted radius rods. It could easily just be the coupler though.

There are some nice alloy pugs. Or........ redrill hubs for six lug and go alloy 14",15", or 16":grin:

Kinda forgot this car DOES have a lift til I did this the other day. (One and half inch blocks on the front strut tops. rear suspension cranked about half way.)

I've got "1-1/2 blocks on the front of my 84 EA81 4wd Sedan, and it does fine.* But 2" would be pushin it. It is really just a weekend cruiser though. I wouldn't advise this type lift for a DD/wheeler. I just did it for a little more height under the front end. I never liked the severe EA81 rake. I leave the factory adjusters cranked down, front and rear, unless I know for sure I'll need the clearance. I have cranked it up a few times but then you do here clicking for sure. But it's mostly around town, down the highway driver. But occasionally does see's some dirt or sand roads. I don't really "wheel" it much, it's got stock size road tires, a 3at and a Hitachi carb. Not much power to stress the axles. I think if you are gonna go bigger tires and really wheel it, you'll want to go no more than an inch over stock. So if you do 2" blocks on top, put a 1" spacer on the subframe. (you can probably get away without doing the radius rod plates with just 1") Strut/Crossmember 2"/1" or 3"/2" Personally though, My real lifted EA81 (84 wag, HighGuys 6") is equal height blocks on everything.

They are full of crap. There aren't any "freeze plugs" on the outside of an EJ engine. The only ones are on the heads, and if you lost one of those you'd have motor milkshake in the oil-pan. Hmmm.....let's think about this guys......... DOHC 2.5, coolant smell, Air pockets, sludgy coolant........ I hate to say headgaskets.......but........

Check and clean all you're battery and ground connections. Then put new $10 copper contacts in the solenoid of the starter. (or clean and bend the old ones) Don't replace the whole starter......they never need it. It is always contacts in the solenoid coupled with resistance in the circuit.

Should have it at least checked. You can actually damage your CB unit if the REF power is too high. Over 3:1 can actually "fry" the unit. SWR meters are less than $20 and easy to use. You don't NEEED to be fully tuned, but you should make sure you're at least under 2:1

I think you may have two issues. 1. I will bet that the left side radius rod is slightly bent, or the mount is slightly "pushed" back. I had this happen on my Sedan. The fix was to mount a thick washer behind the bushing on the radius rod to push the tire forward just a hair. From there, alignemt was possible and the turning felt balanced. 2. You may have a stuck U-joint/rag joint coupler for the steering column. If the car has P/S you can easily replace the rag unit with a double U-joint coupler from a EA82 with P/S

Split the case of the D/R and replace the 23 spline stubs with 25 spline stubs from EJ front diff. Or buy 93/94 FWD (MT?) Impreza axles. I advise swapping to 25 spline stubs, as then you can use beefier 2002+ Forrester, Outback, or WRX front axles.

Yeah, I was thinking more EA81. I guess the coilover acts as a stopper once the spring is fully compressed on EA82.