Gloyale

I am betting on poor assembly at some point in the cars past. If the valve is free moving, and the HLA (lifter, but not really) is not spongy, thne you should be fine to put the spring back on and go with it. Use a big dab of grease on the end of the HLA to hold the rockers in place during assembly.

Pull up the trunk carpet, remove the access panel and pull out he sending unit. If it's float is full of gas, or if it is otherwise stuck there is your problem. If it appears normal, disconnect the wires, and measure resistance through the sender while moving the arm. IF the resirtance changes smoothly, then your gauge is probably faulty.

3/16

150 and 250 grit are WAAAY too rough. Perhaps 250 for a starting pass and then 500 or 600 grit wet sand paper for a finish. 250 will leave big gouged scratches in the head.

It likely isn't the CTS that is causing the fast idle. Like I said, I think it is the AAV. I'm telling you, look for the 5/8ths tube that runs out of the intake boot, down under the intake to a valve, and then back up to a port on the side of the intake near throttle body. Pass side. Clamp that hose when it's idling high. if it drops, bingo. It is a heated valve, with an element, and a bi-metal spring like a choke spring. If the element goes bad, or if the spring breaks it just stays open, allowing a large volume of air into the engine for a fast idle. Test that 12v gets to it with key on just to rule out the circuit, but likely oyu just need a new valve. * For any non-spider EA82T people following this, your AAV is the thing right atop the thermostat housing, but the function and dignosis (i.e. vicegrips) are the same

If you are talking about hte big plastic retainers, then it should be fine as they are just holders. If the tip of the injector itself is cracked, that is not good

I have full FSM all years 85-90 of the EA82. My scanner is no more, but I can maybe try to take some photocopies and mail them to you. What all do you need? Dash wiring diagrahm with pin of the connector for the light? Wiring on the trans itself? Switch on the shifter? Biggest issue is I doubt the wiring in the harness between those switches will be present.

The strut height determines where the body of the car rides. If you space the subframe away from the body (1-1/4") you are actually *dropping* the subframe. You're engine, trans, and rear diff will all be closer to the ground than they otherwise would be without the spacers. There is no spacers on the Carrier bearing, it has a different tab setup on it for the drop. You'd have to swap drivelines, or swap the carrier onto yours. Also, If you add the spacer to the front subframe, you must also install the rear mount for the control arm. The outback ones are spaced down to match the subframe blocks. They are great for that.

Is there any of the factory assembly paint still on the pulleys? I have had a few DOHCs end up with the cast marks appearing slightly off, to the point where it was a judgement call as to which way *off* was closer. That is when I noticed the paint marks. When I went with the paint to be the *swing vote* it ended up running the best and having the best compresison.

Not to make things more confusing, but why excactly are you replacing the distributor? I mean, you are getting a code we know but what is the actual running problem you are having? the reason I ask, is because the Crank Angle codes (12 IIRC) will trigger in D-check when you turn Key On/Eng Off. But if the car will start, then your CAS and whole disty are likely fine.

Yes that is it.

You really need to check them with a straight edge and a feeler before decideing on what to do. If they lost that much coolant and got hot enough to not run, they may be cracked, have burned valves or seats, or be warped really bad. I have done too many "it'll be fine" jobs that weren't to think this would be a good idea. I'll gasket slap an engine that runs but just get's hot, but one that doesn't run.........you need to inspect before deciding what to do.

Wow, I only charge $350 to replace clutches and solenoid in an Auto. $500 to change the VC center diff on a manual because the part is more expensive and the tranny disassemble is a bit more involved. I find if I charge more, people just decide to not fix it and get a new car or live with it. Then I get no work. I'd rather work cheap than have no work at all.

Yeah, but to do it proper you have to remove the tranny and set it on it's side and use a dial indicator to check backlash (through the drain plug hole) When you've done a few, you can do them with it in the car by feel.

Did you split the case to replace the seals? Or did you just unscrew the retainers? If you undid the retainers, you may have not gotten the backlash/tension adjustment correct. If you split the case, then you already know how to do it to remove and replace the diff bearings anyhow.

2 words: Ground cable

The Turbo ECU will runt he NA motor fine. I have a hybrid EA82 in my car right now. EA82T block SPFI pistons (9.5:1) NA Spider intake Running great using the Original Turbo ECU and MAF There is sometimes a slight lag in throttle response at low RPMs, but overall it runs great.

I think you mean the trailing arm. But anyhow, you need to use the outback trailing arm mounting bracket. Or alternatly, put 1-1/2 in. blocks under the stock brackets. BTW, using high grade bolts isn't the best idea with the lift. You are better off having a bolt break than having the captive nuts in the body ripped out. Don't bother with the crossmember spacers unless you are lifting the car further. With just OB struts you are fine without them and will LOSE clearance if you install them.

If there is no pressure in you're AC system, or if there is a fault with the pressure switch in the reciever/drier then the signal voltage will not be sent to the relay to turn on the fan. Normal fan operation (i.e. temp swith controlled) is not run through a relay. the relay is for operation of the fan while running A/C or Defrost. you probably have a bad temp switch, and a faulty or depressurized A/C

He has a spider intake. Again, CTS is on the DRIVERS side, rear of lower intake manifold.

You probably need to replace you're AAV (auxillary air valve) it is under the upper intake, bolted to the bottom coolant crossover section of the manifold. Passenger side, kinduv a metal tube with 2 hoses and a wiring pigtail (also the bosch 85850 style) It is a vavle that is supposed to close when heated, both by an electric element, and to a lesser extent by the heat of the engine Pinch off one of the hoses and if the idle drops, you know that is you're problem. I used a pair of small vicegrips clamped on the hose for a few weeks on my car, works fine, just will need to be "warmed up" for a min or two to prevent stalling in the mornings. If that's the case, check that there is voltage on the wires going to it. If there is voltage, then you know the valve itself is bad. If no voltage, then repair wiring or fuse or whatever then retest. Interestingly, alot of 80's Volkswagens used the same AAV as the one on you're car if yyou have a hard time locating. CTS is in the lower portion of the intake (coolant crossover) on the rear, drivers side, near where the heater hose joins engine. Should be a tan connector.

electrical connectors go on the bottom, to the outside. So just put them in with the wiring at the bottom outside corners. They will only fit one way. It is actually easier to remove the whole radiator with fans attached for future reference.

It is also possible that someone incorrectly installed the rockers and the Cam Case. I would start by pulling the Cam case and checking the valve for free movement.

Pull the cam carrier and replace the keepers and rockers. Use compressed air through the spark plug hole to hold the valve up tight to install the springs and keepers.

Tell them they aren't worth you're money then. We recently had a GL driveline lengthened to fit a D/R into a Legacy. Cost was $205. If they don't want you're money, then go somewhere else.