Gloyale

This is a wild goose chase First, really, we need to know is it a Cali model or not? someone may have swapped in a Cali ECU, which is looking for a temp sensor that isn't there. Look at the sticker under hte hood that sayts something like"this vehichle conforms....blah blah......applicable for new vehichles sold in _________" it will either say California or U.S. Or just look at the EGR valve, is there a small one wire sensor screwed into it at the base? If not, then you don't have an EGR temp sensor. If the wrong ECU is there, you can "switch" it by changing the wiring at one pin.

Search and you will find lots of threads about aftermarket coils performing poorly on Subarus. The OEM coils are the way to go.

You should not make blanket statements like that. I ALWAYS have the heads machined. I ALWAYS replace Cam seals, Crank and Oil pump seals, and vavle cover gaskets. I do waterpumps on cars that are on their second or unknown number of timing belt changes, and I always clean all the carbon off of the piston crowns and the comustion chamber of the heads. I don't mess with the rear main or seperator unless it is leaking, or if the customer would like to do the "preventative" service. About the only thing I don't do is vavle jobs. It just isn't nessecary 99% of the time. IF the car runs well, but just has a leaking headgasket, there is no need to rebuild the heads. Even when I replace all that stuff, total comes out way under $2000. So are you saying I am not doing a good job? guess I just don't see how charging double(to cover expensive overhead) makes you a better mechanic. I have a small shop, and no employees. So I don't have to inflate my prices

I'll bet you are looking at the arrow. Don't look at the arrow. Arrows are the marks for checking valve clearances. Look for the small mark on one of the tabs on the rear part of that crank sprocket. that mark is for the Timing belt If that is the mark you are using, and it is actually miss timed, don't worry about taking it apart. Just take the old belt off, line up the new one and your set.

Yeah, but it can ride lightly against the preussre plate fingers and spin adn make this annoying little chirping noise. Humor me and tell me if it changes at all when clutch is pressed, released. It is a frequently occuring noise emmited from the starter area, so I took a wild guess.

probably not with just 1 on the front crossmember

Is it a cali model? I think on;y cali models had that EGR temp sensor

I don't think they changed anything about the EA82 code proceedure in 90. Pretty sure it is the light on the ECU to check. But for giggles, what would that code be?

nah...... not if the headgaskets aren't leaking. I would check valve clearnaces first

throw out bearing

Use MAF cleaner, they sell it at most stores. I have used break cleaner effectively too, but it is said it "may" cause damage in some cases. IDK. Clean it, you might be surprised. Also, make sure all the clamps on the intake are tight,a nd nothing is unhooked

Great PSA But I am curious. Looks like excactly the part, and there description isn't typical "garbage" seems like they have some sorta clue. Someone buy one and try it

CEL should either be OFF or ON. If it is flashing, go under the hood and disconnect your green connectors (the ones for timing setting) they should not be hooked toghether for normal drivng codes read on the ECU, not on the CEL light

I believe your loyal rear diff will be 3.9. many early legacies also use 3.9 for the autos. Early legacies (up to 94) have the same male stub axles in the rear. no need to cut any wires to seperate engine and trans harness. the 2 computers are right toghether under the legacy dash, all the connectors int he same harness. You don't need xt6 axles. they won't go through your hubs. you will need GL Turbo axles. Order them for a Manual cause parts listings get all screwy with the 2 different automatics.

No he doesn't. this is a loyale. won't hook up to a scanner unless someone has an old Subie "Select Monitor" Just pull the lower trim, and look for the little light on the front of the ECU. should be blinking a code. searcht eh forum and there is PLENTY of descriptions.

Can't tell you conclusively it is one valve out of four per cylinder? can point to it, but can't tell without removing heads

They should be compatable. And I just priced the cats(it is 2 in a section of pipe between flanges) and they should only be about $1050 list from subaru. someone was jackin you around. This was literally yesterday that I priced it. whole deal with gaskets, bolts, new heat sheild(apparently the shape changed somewhat and the old shield won;t fit new cat?) and new 02 sensor came to about $1250

Check the TPS operation. Set the idle switch and make sure resitance change is smooth throughout the range. Or just hook it to a datastream scanner that will let you observe TPS output while drivng.

The only suspension piece that is different is the actual engine crossmember. All the rest will work from any DL/GL/Loyale or even an XT I have the excct same car. GL(not GL-10) Turbo wagon, w/4eat really the only weird part is the 4eat. They use 25 spline axles. The 2wd and turbo with the 3sp Auto use a 23 spline. And half the friggin stores have incorrect listings anyway. Just always tell them Manual trans w/turbo and you will get the right ones. All you're other engine parts should be same as any other GL/GL-10/Loyale turbo from 88-90. You will need the long 110 mm waterpump(dealer AC)

Selling or buying used Cats to install on a car is illegal. So is actually installing it. Did you replace the 02 sensors with OEM? it may not be your cats

Nah, it was all but expected. Bought the car with intentions of building a Family Wheeler for my buddies wife. She has wrist problems(lives in a brace) so needs an automatic. And this one is a color she liked. We just really wanted a straight shell. This one was never wrecked, bought from Original owner, nice paint, no rust. So plans are a Phase II 2.5 (run off 2.2 ECU) mated to a 92 Turbo Legacy 4EAT(the one with the beefier clutch packs) Then an outback strut lift, possibly a 2-3 inch body lift as well.

They are lazy or unifromed or both These cars are very simple to read codes on. Blinking light is on the ECU. ECU is bolted to the steering column. turn the key to on, and count long and short beeps to retrieve codes. 2 long, 1 short = code 21 etc.... If you want you can also plug in the white connectors to eachother(under hood, above brake booster area) they are the READ connectors, and will retrieve any past codes that were thrown intermittently. The green connectors there put the car into a test mode (d-check) it will throw some codes,(11 and 13) cycle the fuel pump, and a few relays. Good for testing Fuel pump, but not much else in my opinion. Additionally, they are supposed to be connected during ignition timing, but unhooked for regular driving. From the sounds of it though, you should need only to check for current codes. just look at the light with key on. no connectors but........I am gonna guess of the top of my head you have a MAF malfunction Clean it or replace it.

You will lose some coolant over time this way, so you will need to be fanatical about checking it as long as you run like this.

Oh yeah, those fit easy. the tracks are the same width, so you can just unbolt the EA82 tracks and bolt them onto the Legacy seats. you'll need to drill 2 holes in the seat to bolt the EA82 rails onto it. Same can be done with the later Height Adjustable seats, but there is some extra grinding off a weld, and drilling 2 extra bolt holes. That's how I did it. I know others just adapt the Legacy or outback seat rails to bolt to the EA82 floorplan. I didn;'t want to modify the bracket or the body of the car. Swapping the rails was pretty easy. Harder on EA81 cars as the seats are about 1 inch narrower. have to use some flat bar to make adapter

yup you can replace it with any same gage wire. just make sure you get good connectionsw and no wire touching ground