Gloyale

That's only an issue because it's tied to clutch. My setup would not have the added hill holders tied to the clutch at all. In fact my GL is a 4EAT automatic. They would be hand controled by handles mounted int he cab. I have a sweet set of vintage Campangnolo road bike brake handles I want to use. So, they would not be used at all during normal driving. Only activated when I want by use of the handles. I would mount the hill holder valves themselves at about a 20 degree upward angle, so they would work even if I was nose down stuck on an obstacle.

That is basically all the hill holder is. And they are cheap and readily available, with cable and all. All the Aftermarket hydraulic brake locks I've seen require rerouting the hydraulics to the unit in the cab. I though this way the units could install right near the proportioning valve and minimal new plumbing required.

I have a hunch the fabled SPFI EJ motors (of whatever displacement) probably still used crank and cam sensors directly on the pulleys, and not the CAS signal type. It's just a hunch. Anyone shed any light???

Making one out of wood? It's making wood out of me

Resurecting this old thread to start a discussion about a new topic. I have just installed the dual ebrake mod on my GL. It works awesome for the front, although it won't completely lock a wheel. It holds enough to transfer power though. I drove up a set of offset ramps, in FWD with one front wheel in the air. 1WD! Awesome:grin: Now for the new topic. Trying to come up with a way to lock the rear seperately, I though of a new idea. It was suggested above in this thread some type of hydraulic locker. It then occured to me that subaru equipped all their manual transmission cars with hydraulic brake holders in the form of the Hill Holder!!! So my Idea is to mount and plumb 2 hill holder valves near the rear propotioning valves. Plumbed in down stream of the proportioning valve, one to each wheel. Mounted at an upward angle so it would work on downhills. Rig the cables to a set of handles in the cab. NOT connected at all to the clutch activated hill holder. It could be installed the same on either manuals or automatics. To use, simply set the brakes with the brake pedal, pull the cable for the choosen wheel, and release brakes. Only the one rear wheel locked by the activated cable would stay locked, and you could crawl over you're obstacle. Thoughs, Ideas, for reviving the dead?

You say the car is now at 93k miles? That means 33k miles on the brakes. Sounds like worth at least pulling the wheels and inspecting. But suit yourself, and dismiss all you want. However, I have found over the years that if the problem(vibration) occurs when you apply the brakes, 99% of the time it's related to the brakes. It can't hurt to have all the front end suspension bits checked, but my money is on the rotors.

I agree. That was the jist my statement. Headgaskets are not fail proof in any car.

The only disty that get's talked about bolting into the EJ head are the early 80's ford escort disty's. These however are magnetic pickup type disributors that only control the ignition. No optical CAM angle sensor. Now, I don't know, but perhaps a later disty from the same engine, but newer fuel setup MAY have a disty with an optical sensor. Also Mazda 323s of the era share many components with the escort, and could be another place to look. But basically the optical disty is the big hurdle. I don't know about mounting the throttle body and injector. Not sure if it would work "side draft" style. Might require a custom modified manifold, in which case all the appearance of stock disappears.

Yeah the problem there is that it's not supposed to be a brass seal. An OEM Subaru thermostat for the 2.2 would have a rubber seal on the valve. Did you scrape off the rubber seal? Or was this a non OEM thermostat? Don't be surprised if that 2.2 isn't actually starting to loose its HGs. Contrary to all the hype here, the 2.2 IS NOT bullet proof, and does(or at least can) blow headgaskets once the miles get high.

JDM first gen legacies got glass headlights, whilst we got plastic. Any body in Japan want to ship me some headlights for a 93 Legacy???

Have you inspected the rear rotors??? Actually pull them off and inspect BOTH sides. I know the vibration is in the front, while braking. But I have seen before where rough rotors on the rear caused bad jerking vibration of the whole car. And the OUTER side of the rotor appeared fine. Took it off and inspected the other side.....Yikes:eek: The salt and moisture trapped between the rotor and backing plate caused the rotor to corrode, and actually flake off large pieces. The knocking over bumps could be tierods or balljoints. Rattling over bumps sounds like it. Unrelated to the cause of the braking vibration, but amplifying the vibration during braking. Just a suggestion to have ALL the rotors inspected, not just the front.

external oil cooler Or.... Like Nissan Altima, external power steering cooler.

I still say if they admit to sending the car out of there shop with the fans not plugged in, it is 100% there fault. The car would bnot have overheated otherwise. The radiator clogged line of BS they are feeding you is crap. Can you get anyone at the shop to admit in writitng or record them saying they forgot the fan plugs???

I agree. Torque binding is not the AWD "failing" If anything it is "over succeeding" I'd rather have torque bind than FWD. That would be "failed"

yeah, me too. I hit it whilst doing some behind the dash switch/gauge/installation. I thought I had screwed something up with my wiring and pulled it all back apart to try and repair. It wasn't till I started pouring over FSMs to look for a possible mistake, that I saw the switch in the diagrahm. Theeeeeeeen I remembered the switch on the column! I was frantically preparing for a 2000 mile spur of the moment cross country trip. I guess it made me forget about the switch, which I knew ful well was there, just didn't connect the dots.

No, the subaru keyless systems were not just "plug in" there are several wires that get cut and respliced through the unit, and several wires that "tap splice" into the existing wiring. I don't have the installation manual, but I've examined the wiring in a couple cars equipped with the system. I would like ot get the installation manual.

You don't want to replace pistons without replaceing rings...... And you don't want to replace rings without honing the cylinder...... And you can't properly hone the cylinders without splitting the case...... If you split the case, you might as well replace the main and rod bearings....... And at that point you are doing a full rebuild, so just skip it and call CCR. Or you could choose not to be a worry wort and just replace the Headgaskets. If the engine runs strong, it will continue to do so with the new headgaskets. Cleaning the carbon build up off of the pistons and valves is about all I would do to it. There is no reason in my mind to even pull the eninge. Just pull the heads, have them checked and surfaced if needed. Slap some new head gaskets in and go. Enjoy all the money you saved

You need to actually check for spark. Not just swap parts around. Pull the #1 spark plug wire from the sparkplug. Insert a screwdriver into the end of the plug wire. Set the screwdrviver against teh engine in a way that the metal shaft of the driver is about 1/4" away from the engine block. Have someone crank the engine wiht the key and watch for a spark to jump from the srcewdriver to the block. Or buy a 6 dollar spark tester that does the same thing without risking shocking yourself. Either way, some real testing needs done. Not just guess and swap.

That was the attitude for years with the EA81s. And now they are getting harder to find.

Around here, any of the reputable tire shops won't install regular tires on spare rims. Too much liabilty.

Nope, check the FSMs All first gen 4eats in Legacy were 3.9 Manuals were 4.11

And Automatic 1st gen legacies and almost any 85-94 4wd non-turbo GL/Loyale All have the same external splines, bolts right up.

I'd be happy to. I must say though that here on the USMB is the only place I *work* on Subarus for free. Getting my hands dirty turning wrenches in RL (real life, as oppossed to this virtual one) is the work I get paid for. That said, I charge very reasonable rates, and would be more than happy to give EagleB an honest, Subaru specific, evaluation and possible repair (depending on what is diagnosed). I could use a reason to go to portland for a few things.

Not really. It could still be4 something easy. You are running away with ideas of "OMG!!! my car won't start! it's completely f****d!!" First, have you checked all the fuses? And the fusible links under the hood? Have you checked if there is spark when the engine is cranked? Have you connected the test connectors to read any codes? Is the oil cap on? There is an even longer list of very simple things it could be. People are guessing timing belt because of you're description of the engine turning over fast. That could just be the sound of it turning and not sparking. Check the fuses and fusible links. Test for spark. THEN.... If you find nothing, pull the outer ends of the timing belt covers and inspect the belt. I am betting it's something else, something simple.

Yup, sounds like it's bad. Wow. Sh*t happens eh?