Gloyale

Make sure to use actual coolant line. Unfortunately not all places have it in 1/4" or 5/16" I forget which. in a pinch, Trans cooler line works pretty well. Low pressure Fuel line works OK, but cracks from heat over time. The High pressure FI fuel hose is a bit better but spendy. Definately Not vaccum or evap line.

Have you tried moving the 4wd cable/lever on the side of the transmission by hand? lubricated it? vacuum may not be the issue.

Someone correct this if I'm wrong. But I believe the lower starter bolt is actually a stud with a nut on the back, mounted in the bell.

Doe it run and idle correctly??? Perhaps you have one cam slightly off??

sounds just right to me:grin: .... It's good to know you're AWD works.

New info discovered. This is the question posed in post #1 of this thread in red. Final question is about the valve body. The EJ trans has one more detent in it than the EA. EA used a button to control 1st hold, were as the EJ has a position for it on the shifter. I'm doing my own research, but does anyone know first hand if the EA's 1st hold button will still function when mated to the EJ trans? Or will I need to use the EJ shifter with all four forward gear positions? Answer: GL's TCU cannot make the Legacy Trans shift into "1st Hold" normal function. The shifter must be modified to allow it to travel 1 click further for 1st gear, to phyisically pull the cable further. This mimics the Legacy shifter. Additionally, one must first shift to second, press the "1t hold" button and wait until the dash display for it lights, then pull the lever back to the new, modified 1st click. If you just pull the lever back the extra click it will use only 1st gear. However... it does not lock the Torque Converter to provide engine braking, important for slippery descents. And also does not provide the Increased Transfer clutch pressure of the *1st hold* mode. The TCU need the electrical signal to control 1st gear. Without it, it won't fully use *1st hold*. Seems now what I have is like the Legacys *Normal* and *MANU* 1st modes. I reused the GL's indicator switch, which only goes down to *2nd*, So the signal for 1st has to come from the seperate *1st hold* switch. On the Legacy, the signal for 1st come from the indicator switch on the side of the trans. I am going to attempt to use the legacy indicator switch, rewired to signal *1st* hold

Car is an '89 GL Turbo wagon Originally equipped with 3.7 ratio 4EAT. Now is running 3.9 ratio 4EAT, from '93 Legacy GL parts used: engine, TCU, crossmember, drvieshaft Front diff/Torque converter housing. Legacy parts used: Center and rear(transfer) Transmission sections. Torque converter Front 3.9 differential, ring, and pinion Rear 3.9 Differential

I've used NGK wires and plugs with good results. I alo love my K+N filter, it' done nothing but help my low end and turbo spooling.

The rubber hose feeds the Air Suction Valve. If you're replacing the CAT, it can be removed. Just trace it up to it's origins in the engine bay. Cut and plug it. The ports on the heads will still supply the ASV. The whole ASV system can be eliminated actually, but the easiest thing to do for now would be cap it. Or actually just leave it if you're not replacing the cat and it's not leaking or broken. There should not be an Oxygen sensor in the second cat. The only O2 sensor should be in the front cat, between the arm of the *Y* piece. The dual jacket pipe is just for noise reduction and corrosion protection. The bigger pipe is just sleeved over the inner. to run you're new pipe, use a size just slighlty bigger than the inner pipe. Sleeve it between the 2 layers, over the inner, but inside the outer. Then clamp and/ or weld. Works well, I did this on an 86 Carbed 2wd sedan.

What year, model? I'd check the connectiopn for the radiator fan wires. I had a problem with mine till I cleaned and crimped the female side of the connector

I'd look for anything that was left diconnected. And read the CEL code.

Actually kip, that' the Fast Idle solenoid. Used to raise idle for A/C etc. Do you see the curved 1/2" dia. hose on the passenger side? That hose would connect to the Aux Air Valve. But it's not on the manifold in this picture

You will have shi**y sound and liklely wreck you're stereo if you do not seperate the grounds. One way or another, you need top seperate the speakers. The most obvious and easy way is to run new wire to the kickpanel, and there tie into the factory wires.

You have a spider intake correct??? You have the same device skip is talking about. But yours i mounted under the intake runners. About the size and shape of a screwdriver handle, It will have 2 hoses, and a 2 prong electrical connector. Hoses are thumb size, one from the intake tube, and one going to the throttle body. Remove it and clean it. Also you can put 12v to it and observe the valve function. It should be open cold, and close as it heats up. My guess is it is clogged or stuck closed.

It' in and driving. No Code from the TCU, and all shifting seem normal. It does seem that there is some knocking from the tail end of the trans. The EJ tailsection is a bit bigger, and it' mounts hit the inside of the GL's tunnel. Also, it seems like there may be some noise from the front diff. But I am reworking my exhaust at the same time, so my test drive was very noisy(just the downpipe). Hard to tell what I'm hearing. The upside is that lower gearing and unrestricted exhaust made for a few fun 0-60 runs:clap:

It can bend the edge where the jaws are pulling. Especailly old tyle v-pulleys. I guess an EJ pulley could handle it, mostly because they should pull right off and not need tons of force.

It was just a knee jerk reaction a soon as I read the suggetion he try it.. I should have finished reading everyone elses posts.

so...., there must be a diode in the circuit to seperate the turn/brake voltages. I have no idea where that diode would be mounted. But if you can locate it, it's easy to test and replace. Usually in subarus, the diode is a cap that plugs onto a 2 prong connector. Looks like a capped off connector, but the cap is actually the diode. Ussually taped to the side of the harness somewhere.

I think the Imp has Drum brake and the Legacy has disc. I believe it will work but you'll need to swap the backing plate and brakes. Also did Impreza have ABS in 95??

Look at the distance from the end of the pump body to the begining of the hub. How much exposed shaft is there? If it is a gap of 1/8" (very little exposed shaft)you need the shorter 105mm pump. If the gap is more like 7/16" (almost a pinky's width of exposed shaft)you need the longer pump. It is dictated by application Dealer or Factory A/C, XT or GL, so on.... But with so many swapped motors and incorrect part listings this is the easiest way to tell. Just look at how far the hub is pressed onto the impellar shaft. now that I read this, it sounds dirty

DON"T DO THIS!!!!! This is the #1 worst way to try to test an alternator. Have the battery and alternator tested properly at autozone/advance/checker or somewhere that offers testing. If there is a problem with the alternator, you could Destroy you're ECU, or other senitive electronics. The system needs the battery as *ballast* My bet is the battery died. In turn it then took the Alternator with it.

Don't use a 3 jaw. You could damage the edge and end up affecting the belt. It' not a press fit. should slide of by hand with enough wiggling and tapping.

My mother has a 96 Outback MT. It has dual port 2.2 in it. You can leave the IAC where it is for the swap. Whichever intake and TB you are using, just run the wiring to it. To the OP, you may want to ask around NASIOC. I am dead sure that this swap can be done either way 96 into 99, or 99 into 96. Or 99 into 90, or 90 into 99. It is all doable. Just swap the harness and sensors from you're original setup onto the new motor. Cut and splice IAC connector to match the manifold you are using.

Ya know, it is an AWD car. Some amount of torque transfer should happen all the time. Even in turns. AWD doen't help much if it only work going straight. This will manifest a small binding. Most noticable at very slow speeds. Since *turn* and *slip* are detected by the TCU using the VSS(speed sensors),At very low speeds, it is hard for the TCU to *decide* that the car is in a turn, and to then lower the transfer pressure. Don't get me wrong, problematic, major, torque bind can, and does, happen. I am merely saying you're case here does not sound that bad. I wouldn't worry unless something get worse

Legacy steering knuckle is like a 1" extended GL(ea82) knuckle. Outback is like a 3" extended. Might just get lucky and be able to use the outback one.