Gloyale

First post says it has D/R. Doesn't really matter now, the car is in impound. Wait til the state owns it and buy it at auction:clap:

Plus the Carbed Hatch will be harder to pass through SMOG check. And Harder to get worked on, because most Mechanics nowadays don't remember what a Carb is, let alone how to service a Subaru with one. They just won't want to deal with it, or they'll screw it up.

Download the FSM and adjust the TPS or replace it if it tests bad. Ticking is not really a worry, these cars just do that. You could try sefoam, Marvel, or ATF to free up the sticky lifters, but don't worry about iot too much. Once you get rid of the TPS code, it will run better

BIODIESEL!!!!!! 100% renewable, No crude(read:war) required

Are you using "ultra-brite" or anycrap like that? I've had problems with the extra bright bulbs burning out the connectors. Replace the connector and use regular bulbs. Or do a proper HID conversion.

I've had to replace Headgaskets just cause of that leak. Compression and cooling were fine, but the leak was terrible. It happens

Yes, definately. as far as the Auto V Manual question. I wouldn't think it would make a difference. But there may be a wiring difference that is not plug and play. You need to test the VSS, and if it outputs, then work on whether the VSS is connected to the ECU.

240 Divided by 12 = 20 mpg. Thats not that bad running 27s I'd fix the TPS code. Either adjust or replace as needed. Sounds like you have a noisy injector, possibly getting worn out.

I wouldn't worry about the BTV cracks. I assume the O-ring you speak of is the one between the Cam Carriers and the Head. There is no O-ring between heads and block, other than the one built into the headgaskets. For the cost of the seals, it's way worth it to do them now. You already have access to all of it with the engine taken apart. I would replace all accessible seals anytime I have a motor apart, leaking or not.

You may need to get a new VSS. It is in the instrument cluster. You could swap whole clusters, or just the VSS. Be aware, if you swap clusters, and the new one has lower miles, you must notify anyone you sell it to. You may want to check with you're DMV. If you're title already says Odometer exempt then don't worry about it.

The ECUs will all run the car engine the same. The following applies to all EA82 Part Time trannys. All S/R 4wd 5spds are pushbutton All D/R 4wd 5spds are lever activated All Automatics Are S/R and pushbutton activated

The real appeal of the diesel engine is the growing availability of BIODIESEL:clap: And, for the truely committed(or commitable) you can add a parallel Waste Vegetable Oil (WVO) fuel delivery system. It allows you to draw directly from waste cooking oil stock and run it. It is a piggy back system that is switched on after starting and warming. The Original Diesel fuel system is maintained, and commercial fuel can still be used as much as desired.

Plus it is a Turbo so you know it's got 3.7. I guess he didn't say he was using a turbo D/R (from an rx, must be) but that would still be 3.7 Nice car. How much trimming is done behind those fender flares? How did you do those? EDIT: HMM... I just re-red this. Slideshow, are you sure that you do not have you're specs reversed? I know from you're other posts, you're car is a Turbo GL-10. It's original S/R trans would have been 3.7, not 3.9. And Unless you're D/R box is a "fulltime w/diff lock" from an RX, it will be a 3.9. Please don't take offense, but this is something to be VERY sure you have right before running. Excactly what car is you're current (D/R) transmission from? Did you have to change front axles to use the D/R? Did it have 23 or 25 spline stubs?

This is excactly what I'm talking about. The original EJs, had a belt interval of 60k. The new engines use excactly the same type of belt(different lengths for each engine). I didn't realize it was an emmisions clause that changed the recommended interval, but it was, a I expected, an arbitrary change. Meaning that they just decided to print new specs. Not redesign anything. They just let you live with a bigger risk, doesn't cost them anything.

Goes away after oil pressure builds?? Doesn't sound like rod knock to me. Sounds like valve noise, which subaru are famous for.(search Tick of death) My other guess is a light piston slap till it warms and expands a bit. Are you having any other issue with the car? Gas Milage good? No smoking, sputtering? Compression tests good? If there are no other problems than a noisy couple secs at startup, I would just run it. Seems silly to take it back apart.

I personally would replace the belt. I would never trust a timing belt to 105k miles, on anything. It is such relatively cheap insurance against bent valves, and being stuck on the side of the road, that it only makes sense. This is one that FHI baffles me with. The old NON-Interfernce motors had a recommended interval of 60k miles. Now that all the motors are interference, it's 105K?????? Can you say "planned obsolesense"? Or maybe Planned "you need a new motor, better to just buy as new subaru!"

The check valve in the vaccuum line to the brake booster gets frozen shut. Remove the valve, spray wd-40 inside to evaporate the moisture. That ussually helps. Don't let anyone tell you you need a master cylinder, not even the dealer. It is the Check valve. a $5 dollar part, and all it needs is a bit of WD-40. I lived in wisconsin for 5 year so I had this problem first hand

Duh, It was late when I answered that post last night. I wan't remebering that the power for the fan comes from a relay. You probably need a new relay. The relay is up under the dash, mounted in a group with 3 other relays. Not really that big of a pain to get to. Alot easier than running a new wire. The 2 headlight relays(one for each side), and the Rear defogger relay. All those relays are the same type, roundish, mounted in a bracket, left of the steering column. RH headlight= black connector LH headlight=green connector Rear defogger= blue connector Blower relay connector should be white, or clearish. Swap it with the defogger relay as a test.

Does the fan work with 12 v applied? If not, replace fan. If it works, but there is just no voltage to it, try to track down the short, or just run a new wire for the 12v(fused of course) 2 and 3 not working is the fault of the resitor block in the duct.

I wouldn't ever run any timing belt beyond 60k miles, espescially on an interference engine. Agreed, my bad math. But then $2200 in parts is even worse I know. I mark up my parts a bit for the cost of finding and getting them. But remember, We shops get wholesale, or at least discounted pricing from most suppliers. So really the customer shouldn't be paying much more for parts from me than they would from the autoparts store direct now should they? Even if all the other stuff cost $800, that still leaves a $1400 , used engine. A 2.2 shouldn't cost more than $600-$800. But again, the labor seems low, so yes I agree it's close to a wash.

Turn the key on, and test for voltage at the connectors for each solenoid. For both, the Black w/White stripe wire should have 12v when the key is on. if there is no voltage there, test at the body side of the main engine harnes plug(large round connector behind the battery) Note that on the body side of the connector, the wire is Red w/Blue stripe. Just a thought since 12v for both are on the same wire, it could be an issue with that wire.

Are you sure you didn't forget the 5th bolt off to the side? oops, EA81

sold my old 93 Legacy to a friend at 290k She still has it and it just turned 301k. Original Engine and trans (2.2,4eat) My 89 GL turbo has 248k. Orig shortblock and trans. (ea82T, 4eat) 84 4wd Black Diamond Sedan, 79k:headbang:

Well belt intervals are 50-60k miles, so it WAS time to replace it. I would have rebuilt the 2.5. If you did have any chance of getting "your're money out of it" it was BECAUsE it was a GT model. I say was because now you have Neutered it and relagated it to being a standard ole' legacy. But it is you're car, if you are happy, I'm happy for you. The only thing I don't get is $2100 for parts. Used 2.2, gaskets, seals, belts, park plugs and wires, and a clutch huh? I can't get that to add up to $2100 unless the engine was $1500, which is WAAAAAY to much for a used 2.2, you could have got a CCR longblock 2.5 for close to that. I think they just inflated parts cost to cover the extra labor. Cause $700 actually sounds low for for all that work.