Gloyale

To remove the caliper for the purpose of just changing pads, first unbolt the bottom slider bolt(14mm). Pivot the caliper off of the pads anbd then just slide the top back off of the slider. Hang it out of the way. this should be all that's needed for an axle removal(and some will say it doesn't have to come off at all) To remove the bracket to remove/repalce rotor or hub, you need to unbolt 2 17mm bolts that hold the bracket to the backing plate.

I think Loyale 2.7 used them. Makes sense for a six cyl. And have you seen the fiberglass he's added to his bumper? it probably is almost 100 lbs.

M11x1.00 is a hard size to find. I think fitting with M12x1.00 studs would be easier and more available, but let us know. Glad you're still around and working on this.

This means you're cable is too tight. See the two nuts where it;'s secured to the bracket? Move them further down the shaft of the cable housing, this will slacken the cable and allow for adjustment via idle screw.

Be very careful not to damge that 2 wire Knock sensor. The top portion is ceramic and like to crack with any sideways pressure. Be very carefull removing the connector, and save both because they are almost impossible to find and expensive if you do. People need them on the board here all the time. Must be from a car with Flapper Maf. does it have a 3 wire TPS?

Well, I don;'t know about that. Early XT 85,86,87 without turbo would be a better lookup, cause in 88 they introduced the 4EAT, and the fulltime 5spd into some(if not all?) XTs, 4 and 6 cyl, and they all have 25 spline axles, you need 23 spline. Or just Look it up as a non-turbo sedan, any year. Side note: just a tip, the axle for 2wd GL-10 turbo automatic(3spd, 85-88 or 89) should have the larger Turbo CV and DOJ races and cups, but have 23 spline holes for the axle stubs. Only 2wd, Turbo, automatic(3spd, not 4EAT) GL and GL-10. However since any of the 23 spline axles will *fit* often you'll see an interchange and who knows what you'll get. The OEM ones like this arew identified by 2 big ribs on the axle shaft, and a noticably larger joint and boot that the non turbo axles.

seal puller if not, remove the cap and use a punch

Probably all thee hoses are crusty at this point. I'd replace them all. an important note though. There are small little metal plugs with tiny *orifice* holes in them inside a few of the lines. when you swap on new hoses, you have to fish out these little things and shove them into the new hose. If not, some parts of the system will recieve too much vaccum. They are identified as *orifice* on the vac diagrahms.

I've gotten axles to short before. I'm not sire what they were for. I think perhaps hatchback or Brat? And Actually it was from autozone. I think the problem is that GLs, espescially in 85-86 are often reffered to as *1800* Also the Hatchbacks and brats are also called an *1800* Autozone seems to be particullarly bad. I had to just go back and look through there stock to find the right disty caps/rotors/axles/brakepads/etc...

Actually, the difflock uses the same solenoid setup, actautor, linkage is the same. He could simply install the FT 5spd and use the 4wd button on his shifter to active the difflock. No modification required.

The cap for the resevior should have a sticker on it that says to use Dexron ATF. Sticker sometimes gets lost. I use a paint pen to write ATF real big on old ones without the sticker before I sell em. New pumps are ussually only about $45 bucks. Worth the investment. You'll likely have to swap the resevior onto the new pump. It takes 1 or 2 O-rings for that IIRC.

Yup they would, and it would look fricking sweet.

A timing belt that has slipped just 1 or 2 teeth will definately cause poor power, throughout the operational range. However if it has "sweet spots" this is probably not the case, but removing the end covers and verifying that it is in time would be good to check.

Somethng else to check, that can cause all kinds of weird problems. Did someone put a single pole bulb into the brake light socket? That will bridge the brake and running light circuit. You're dashlights and marker lights may come on when you hit the brakes, and also this would definately casue an imbalance. If you';re like me you leave you're headlights on all the time so the circuit is energized as soon as you turn the key. Just something to check. I got a Nissan Altima for 500 bucks cause the guy didn't want to "dig into the wiring to track down electrical issues" He thought it was a short/ crossed wire. it was a $.99 cent bulb

Fusible links? Longshot but perhaps are the battery cables hooked up correct?

Yeah I'm sure is was a malicious attempt to sabotage Daerons electrical project....hhmmmmwawwaaahhhaaaahhaaaaaaaaaa........ NOT! easy mistake to make.

Power windows don't operate in ACC. position. It would need to be *ON* position, and I think He is try to avoid having other circuits be energized by the switch. Like the ECU and Fuel pump and others(someone could easily start the car by jumping to the solenoid if there was a switch to *on*, of course they couldn't steer but hey..) Daeron, put a diode in the original circuit and splice you're switches wire into the original *downstream* of that diode.

The inner most bolt( the long one) goes through the head and into it's coolant passage. So the tip of the bolt and it's threads are sticking into the coolant, causing those threads to corrode. The bolt starts to come out and then runs into these crusty corroded threads which bind up. Continually reversing direction bit by bit you can get them out. And lots of PB blaster. Once you can get the manifold up a tad, spray PB under there to get as much as you can on the threads of the bolt. If coolant runs down the intake ports of the head, just remove the spark plugs and crank it over a few times, this should spit out any water before starting.

My 93 Legacy has an automatic. Works great. 290,000 original miles. No torque bind and the AWD kicks rump roast in the snow, no waiting for the Viscous diff to heat up before power transfer.

Sounds like you're cable is stretching and ready to give out.

The main breaker and power supply for the PW is under the passenger side carpet. You could run a fused, Batt power switch to the main breaker. Just put a diode in the original power wire with it to prevent backflow.

Totally different animal. You will need to remove the wrist pin plugs and pull the wrist pins to remove the pistons. You need a 14mm allen wrench to remove the wrist pin plugs. If you absolutely can't gfet the wrist pins to come out, there is another way. remove all the case half bolts. Stand the motor on it's back end, and seperate the cases. They will only come apart about 2-3 inches before the pistons run into the main bearing castings. But you should be able to get to 2 of the rod bearing cap bolts for cyl 1 and 3. then squeeze the block back toghether carefully, rotate the crank 1/2 turn and spread the halves again. now you can get to the other 2 bolts and then pistons 1 and 3 can be pushed out the top. use a long 5/8 dowel rod to push the bottoms of the pistons out. now the case can come apart and the other pistons removed easily. Don't forget to get anerobic sealant for the case halves reassembly.

I'm pretty sure I've seen that car in Oregon (Corvallis or Portland?) as well. Years ago but it's sweet

Correct, correct and correct. That's why on the 2000 ohm range , 3.8kohms, (or 3800 ohms )is off it's scale, read infinite