Gloyale

I don't know where the drivers head would go. I think it needs a bit more cab behind. I am really wanting to make a Ute out of my Current DD. 89 XT 4wd 4cyl. Love it as a DD but I do need to occasionally transport an engine or trans.

Check the condition of the main cahrge wire, the Fusible link. Also check the connector for the Ignition switch under the dash. Seen them get loose and make the gauges jump around, and cause charging issues.....and occasionally make the enigne stop.

Mine all have a Hex plug in that hole.

Everything from your 2.5 will swap right over. Just install a bare longblock. Oh yeah you will also need a single port exhaust manifold too.

Did you verify the correct crank sprocket? there are 2 kinds.....one with 6 tabs......not all evenly spaced...... and another that has like 30 tabs and on;y one gap. Verify that

A Phase II 2.2. will bolt right in. Install your complete 2.5 intake onto the 2.2 and your done. A phase I 2.2 you would need to swap all the 2.5 wiring onto a 2.2 intake and you would have no working Idle Control Vavle.

Your subaru already has a very good TRUE cold air intake. Replace your pare filter regularly and spend your money elsewhere. ntohing to be gained from messing eith intake tube.

Drill a hole through and install a bolt through the whole deal. Common issue.

GL-10 is an option package. GL-10 = sunroof, digi-dash, trip computer, push seats and height adjustable seats. GLs had regular dash, no sunroof, and regular seats but could be had w/ turbo in and either 5 spd 4wd or 4EAT

you must remove the pulley

I would look very closely at the connector pins inside the Igniter connector.....greasy dirt can get easily shoved in there and will cause a poor connection. It's gotta be in the wire from ECU to Igniter. It's doubtful the ECU failed....let alone 2 of them. Try running a jumper to bypass. Like you suggested cut an inch or two up from the ECU and check for the pulse. Also do the Crank pulleys match? they can be different too. This is why I always pull covers on JDM engines to see what setup is in there.

No. 1/8th of a turn is 45 degrees which would be 5 or 6 notches......WAAAAY too much Really you shouldn't mess with it at all......if you installed them back to the proper marks......that's were it should be. Bearing preload is only part of it. The cup position also sets the R+P engangement....so messing with it messes with the teeth of that gear which could wreck the R+P And bearing preload doesn't have any effect on CV axles.....if they are clicking after a regrease/boot...... they are just old...time for new ones.

That's great....but it doens't change the electrical aspect one lick. IIRC, you were having electrical issues with starting.......did you actually replace the switch too?

My Girlfriend would kill me if I put greasy bearings in our freezer. it's a known trick for installiing bearings and valve stems.........but not really nessecary for axles.....just need 2 hammers.

His rig doesn't have conventional "4wd" in the sense that you cannot put it in 2wd..... It's Fulltime AWD with a diff locker. Refering to the center diff. Rather than the newer style AWD w/viscous Limited slip center diff. So it's AWD or locked, with locked being equivilent to the 4wd of the more common trans.

BirdMobile, you will want to get a copy for your year. Particularly if it's an 85-87

You would need to swap to a correct Trans computer for that gear ratio in addition to swapping rear diff. If not the Rear VSS will be out of synch with the front VSS you will end up with Torque Bind.

Double check the stamp below the altenator mount. That trans came with an EJ18........you may not have a 2.2. there. they are identical on the outside except maybe an EGR pipe might indicate 1.8 vs. 2.2

Front hubs have a much larger spine set than the EA82 rears. EA81 and EA82 hubs share spline count, and can be somewhat interchagned.....I say somewhat because the EA81 are a bit deeper.....so cotter pin location becomes an issue for final fitment.......but they will somewhat "work". Rears are smaller and those look like rears to me.

You need a complete intake wiring harness. Or just a new unmolested intake altogether. This isn't reinventing the wheel. Carb and distributor are lots of custom work..... Harness and ECU can be had at any junkyard.

I meant the main, Large engine connectors..... not the individual items on the intake. 2 or 3 large plugs on the drivers side = 90-94 Legacy 3 squarish connectors at the rear (dont' see them in pics) would be 95 Legacy 1 round and 1 square at the rear would be 93-95 Impreza

EA81 will fit. EA82 engine will not fit in rails without chop. Trans.....sure put whatever you want in there it will fit. rear diffs are the same......torsions are seperate each side but otherwise similar to EA81. need deep offset wheels or spacers to go beyond 27" tire even with a lift.

What do the enigine connectors look like? and where are they on the intake? (side, rear?)

I ussually don't pull plugs unless changing them or doing a comp test/leakdown.

SubaRocket you will also remove the rear crossplate that is just behind the shifter across the tunnel......it will hit the dirveline otherwise once lowered.