beauregaardhooligan

Just not paying attention, I 'spect. Nasa lost a spacecraft that way.

One of you is talking about thousands of kilometers and the other is talking about thousands of miles. Do not fool with an ecvt Justy with trany trouble, you can't even put a manual tranny under it as the engine cranks are different. Heat is what kills the ecvts. I understand they are not rebuildable. I *do* like the Justys though, they are almost as tough as the DL/GLs. I have heard of some of the ecvts being trouble-free and high mileage, but when they go, they cost more than 2 GLs to replace.

Welcome to the board! It's not at all unusual for an engine that has been sitting to smoke after being started. Just clearing it's throat. Take it easy on it and see how it does.

It might sound like a Harley.

2nd that.

Been there, done that.

Water in the gas tank?

Welcome to the board! Just a heads up about your digital dash display, they will tolerate no electrical tom-foolery and are near impossible to find. Just having the alternator go out can ruin them. Get your charging system checked right away, and be sure to disconnect the battery 1st before doing any electrical work. I wouldn't even jump-start dead batteries.

I should think the bigger the better for ground wires. Lots of gremlins have been traced to bad connections at the ground.

The rear dif is separate from the transmission, and both use 90 weight oil. The fill plug on the rear dif is also where you check it. Remove the plug and stick you little finger in. The fluid should come to the top of the fill plug hole. Add fluid till it runs out. Be sure you're on level ground. I like the new full synthetic oils, especially for tranys and difs. I recommend changing the old fluid for new. Flush with your favorite slick-um to get out any accumulated crud. Since you're changing the trany, be sure to put new seals in at the axles, and any place else they look wet. It'll be much easier with the trany out.

Welcome to the board! After a complete tune-up, the best bang-for-buck I've found was an Accel SuperStock coil combined with opening the spark-plug gap to .045. Holes in the air cleaner will make a noticeable improvement also, but be sure the holes are not on the carb-side of the filter. Advancing the timing to run on Hi octane will add some grunt, but don't let it ping. This can also make your motor run hotter, so be sure your cooling system is in excellent shape.

600cc? 2cyl? '83/'84? We need pix! (ohyeah) Welcome to the board!

Take that axle without the cotterpin hole back! It's either the wrong one, or was ground off past the hole after someone bunged up the end taking it out.

Sic'em!

I'm gonna go with an exhaust leak.

I don't throw out anything if I don't have to. If you have room, dis-assemble it as much as you can and keep any parts that aren't obviously broke. Even broken parts may come in handy at some point. These old motors are getting hard to find. Taking it apart would be a good experience also. Tear it down to the block and find out what went bad.

jldskier, running a Subaru even a little while when overheating could, and probably did, blow your head gasket. Time for a compression check. Look for oil in the water and/or water in the oil. If you have an EA81 (you don't say what you have) then having the jiggle pin at the wrong posistion could contribute to the overheating.

Just to clarify, the jiggle pin does not allow air to escape from the cooling system. It prevents an air bubble from becoming trapped at a closed thermostat, which *could* cause overheating by preventing the hot coolant from reaching the thermostat and opening it. That's what they're there for.

Welcome to the board, Nebivedu! That would be great! I suspect there are parts available overseas that we can't get here. Although shipping might be prohibitive, options are always good. BTW, what kind of Subaru do you have? Got pix?

An excellent idea! Alternatives are always good.

Make sure all mating surfaces are clean and smooth so you don't get a leak. Just a touch of gasket sealer helps hold the gasket in place during re-assembly. Some people use plain old grease. Use plenty of anti-sieze on the bolts. Be sure the jiggle-pin goes up. Remove the thermostat before flushing the radiator, and turn the heat on full. When flushing the cooling system, a flush-fill T connection will help assure a complete flush. I never use the little pet-cock to drain the radiator. It's too small to flush well and is too slow to drain. Just take the lower hose loose.

The weber upgrade will definitely give you more power.

Get some nearly bald tires for the back and run them at 40 psi!

I would strongly urge you to bite the bullet and buy a new radiator. You can get one for about a hundred bucks and not have to worry about if it's going to leak, or be already clogged. It will save you much trouble in the long run. Be sure to thoroughly flush your cooling/heating system 1st.

Turbone, if there is anything I can do to help that process along, be sure to let me know!