beauregaardhooligan

Thanks, Chris! I'm always looking for *any* '83/'84 digi-dash. The last one I got for $25, have paid as much as $75. I understand the stealer can get new, rebuilts for just under $400.

What carter is that? Single barrel? Double barrel?

Is that digi-dash gone? I didn't see it, but I'm a novice on ebay. What was it going for?

motor/trany mounts

YouGoBoy! Must have pix!

I hear what you're saying about the low torque range, Scoob. That's what makes the EA81 so attractive for off-roading. High rpms produce wheel spin. With my dual range 4speed in lo, FERTHER will walk up moderate hills at idle! Those Coates heads sure do look great! I'd imagine a set would cost more than most of our cars, though.

Scoob555, welcome to the board! I'm sure a lot of us would be interested in that local magazine article you refer to. Any chance you could get it scanned for us? Is it in English?

I just went through the thermostat thing with my Valiant. It was opening too soon (weak spring) and the engine would'nt get warm. Cardboard didn't help in that situation.

Welcome to the board! What kind of work do you need done?

It would seem that weighing the block would be a better indicator. Are valve heads also made with the denser process, or just made to fit the closed deck block? I seem to recall seeing that grid on my EA81.

Clean the cap and change the oil. See if it does it again. If it does, it probably is the head/gaskets. Some stop leak might help temporarily.

Thanx, Caleb! So Subaru *did* make the Justy motor. Sorry, unHijack.

Them yahoos at geocity say the pages are unavailable.

Discoloration is oxidation. Once it starts it will continue.

The '83 FSM calls for 165 SR 13s on the DL, or 185/70 SR 13s on the GL. The DL has a 4.5-J x 13 rim with an offset of 55mm/2.17". The GL has a 5-J x 13 rim with an offset of 42mm/1.65" I'm not sure what the *J* stands for. 26 psi front and back unless you have a full load, then 32psi in the back. I personally prefer a 185/80 x 13 on the stock spokers with 26psi in the front and 28psi in the back of FERTHER. The speedo is a little slow, but the grunt is still there and the extra clearance makes a big difference. A good compromise for on road/off road.

More like 2 miles! Seriously, with that kind of experience you should have little troubles. Just follow the directions with the kit. Be sure to remove any corrosion on the manifold/carb mating surfaces as coolant circulates there to warm it up. Now is a good time to replace those coolant hoses if questionable as they are a PITA to get at when the carb is on. They are notorious for developing pin-hole leaks that are about impossible to find. It's helpful to take pix of where all the vacuum hoses go beforehand. It's easy to mix them up on installation.

Try parking on a hill with the nose up, let it warm up till the thermostat opens,then slooooowly open the cap. Move to level ground and top off as needed. Be sure the heater is on full heat. Get a flush/fill *T* connection for the heater hose. You can fill the system with a garden hose through it till it is at the correct level without letting air in. You can also bleed the cooling system from the cap on the *T.*

Coat hangers are far superior to bailing wire. Just curious, why did you put the muffler vertically instead of horizontally? I should think the 1st good rock will take it out.

John, if I recall correctly, the float needs to be adjusted with the bowl cover upside down and the float hanging. There are also two places on the tab to bend and make adjustment. I'll see if I can find the sheet from the rebuild kit and scan it for you. At the very least, it sounds like you need to have a higher fuel level.

Aren't the axles and hubs different also? Seems kinda sacreligious to make a 2wd Brat.

I never bother with those drain plugs, just loosen or take the lower radiator hose off. It's much quicker, allows large particles to come out, *and* saves skint knuckles.

Snotrocket makes a good point. Better to blow a gasket than those genIII heads. You will also need to upgrade the fuel pump and fuel lines.

The vacuum advance isn't supposed to have continous vacuum, just when you accelerate. That's why it comes of the carb and not the manifold.

Hmm. Well, learn something new every day, hopefully! That wouldn't apply here, though, would it? rward, you say you're getting air at all 4 wheels? I'd have to go with Russ on suspecting the MC.

You say the problem is air bleeding out of the system. It has to come in somewhere. If there is a leak in the system, fluid would also leak out, except for an internal leak in the master. 1 Are you keeping the master cylinder full? 2 Do you keep the pedal all the way down when the bleeder is opened *and* untill it is closed again? 3 Have you bled the MC? 4 Does the pedal slowly sink or does it stay where it bottoms out? Once you get some pedal, go over everything and look for wetness while someone holds the pedal down. Be patient, it can take a loooong time and much fluid to get it right.