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TheLoyale

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Everything posted by TheLoyale

  1. methusalah, The winter has been off and on this year in WI. We only had a few days with snow, now its all gone, but cold (20s) we are going to have a chance for snow tomorrow I heard. Lake Geneva is where my Loyale originally came from back in '92. The Motor is stock EA82 SPFI, and trans is a 3AT S/R 3.900, Tires are 27" Maxxis Bighorns and the only clearance issue I had was with the front fenders, I needed to trim them a little (Luckily before I got the fenders repainted) Jon, Its official in the sense that I am probably going to part this car out either way. You and I both know that no one is gonna offer $1,200 for this thing, unless they know all about Trashwagon and the like, and they find it cool. Otherwise, no one else will really comprehend why it is, the way it is. What I am going to do at this moment, I have a nut splitter, which I am going to use on the Shift cable adjustment nut (As I can not break it loose) I will then adjust the shift level so it matches the transmission. Then I might as well drive it some to keep the miles off the FJ80, and maybe I will figure out why the "Newer" trans is making noises (Tapping) and something seems to grab/pull while making a turn (Thinking front diff) In a few weeks time, I think I will be stripping this car down. At that point, I will ask to pick up your engine crane so I can begin the tear down. The last thing to be taken off the car will be the suspension/crossmembers. Maybe before going that far, we can see about using some type of trailer to put the shell on and then drop the suspension, then it will just be off to Al's and junk the rest. What do you think about this? Let me know. I don't want to deal with the hassle of having them pick it up, if I don't have to (Unless you think that would be easier)
  2. Steel SJRLift Bumper - 2x2 Tow Receiver - Tire Swing Arm. 2" SJR Lift Kit. SJRLift.com aka ScottInBellingham on here. http://sjrlift.com/
  3. I might add, this motor still has the original HGs with 224,000. Pretty impressive! Way to go Subaru!
  4. I could not even fathom what it would cost to ship a motor to even Maine (Let alone the Westcoast) Would UPS even take a 300lbs object? Or would I need to find another service?
  5. I am not going to break down a complete, fully reliable motor, to only be left with an engine no one wants. This motor is pretty desirable, Its the last year of the Duel-Port EJ22 and the First year of the OBD-II, in my mind, this is the motor to have. (But I am not about to EJ my EA82)
  6. Yes, struts will be complete and ready to bolt up. I'll keep ya posted.
  7. I am going to strip and part out TW10. I will probably make more money off the parts then I could selling the car as a whole. $350 Duel-Port EJ22 $250 4EAT 4:11 Trans $150 Rear Diff/Axles/Crossmember $120 for 4 KYB Outback struts w/ Forster springs $50 Driveshaft (Good Carrier Bearing and u-joints) The list can go on...
  8. Unbelievable! Too bad that WRX wasn't also a Spec-C. Where are these things going...? Does SOA have a warehouse filled with these, or what?
  9. Plastic Oil Plate (Resealed) Rear main is clean and no leaks
  10. That is true, but I'm looking at it as, everything works together on this car, its stance + wheel/tire combo + paint scheme + Decals + Interior + Lights. It all works together, with every detail, if I throw on some black steelies with some 27" BFGs, it won't look that same and would probably make it less appealing to buyer(s) Incase you haven't noticed, I am a very detail oriented person lol...
  11. These are $900 Potenza G019s. A trade would not be worth it, and it is even more pointless since I would have no use for those BFGs. Keep in mind, if I get this thing acting the way it should, no noises, shift lever lines up with correct gear etc. The price of this rig goes up to $2,000, and will be listed on CL as such.
  12. $1,100 takes this car, I'm already an extra $400 into this thing with the trans swap, car comes with everything, as is. I am really done with this car, I am just to that point (You've been there) The trans swap did not yield the results I had hoped for.
  13. For the moment, The transmission shifts fine, and enter TC lockup. But in Reverse, I have some serious vibration (This is not a trans mount issue) I also have a tapping in drive while stopped off and on. Also while cornering it feels like something is grabbing the outer most wheel and slowing it down, wonder if the Diff just needs to be worked in? This might have been a waste of $400 and our labor. I am going to adjust the shifter cable today, and look at this thing more. My tranny pan also leaks, after I resealed it (So I am going to use my Original one) as the flange on this one was bent.
  14. I have a '95 4EAT with a bad reverse clutch, slips out of reverse and rarely engages when warm. All forward gears, TC and Duty-C/clutch pack are in good working order. I have no use for this trans, would it be better to part it out vs. Selling the entire trans? Looking for some insight. -Tom (Mods, This is not a For sale thread. More of a question thread)
  15. It has been done to a First gen Legacy wagon. It is not only RWD. But it has a SB 350. Here is one with a 305 (Hope its a 4brl!)
  16. The Gear-looking ring thing was tight, but the little retainer (Locknut thing) was loose. So it makes me wonder. But it feels ok, smooth and easy, and has the same amount of lash on each shaft. Guess we'll see. (Hence the reason of buying an FJ60) the gear box can be someone elses problem
  17. The problem with this is, you might have a Duty-C/Clutch pack failure in that Legacy, which means you need to disassemble the tail housing of the trans to fix. The GLF is a better vehicle, EA81, and a simple trans. GL FTW!
  18. Moog is the best you can buy for anything that has Balljoints. But Beck/Arnley is cheeper and still good quality. On an '03 Subaru, Bosh might be Genuine, as GM owned part of Subaru back then. And we all know how GM is loving Bosh's nuts...
  19. Yeah, a Junkyard isn't going to waste time removing the axles when they have a Torch. Hell, they even cut the exhaust and trans crossmember off (So I have to replace the Tranny mounts with my original ones) they also cut the shifter cable and burn the o2 sensor wiring (Which I can all swap from mine) no biggie. The axles came out easy, someone replace the axle once on that car (Aftermarket DOJ and roll pin) and I think someone was messing with the diff stub bearings/seal or something, as the retainer clip was loose. So I just checked the it out and tightened it up. My end play is good, and there is no other play in the stubs, so I think we're in good shape so far.

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