TheLoyale

$350 4EAT 4:11 173,000. Trans code.

I have, they are fine.

Here is what your Valve covers look like, with a new Fel-Pro seal. Back on the engine.

It will only take you less then an hour, all you are doing it popping off the PCV hose (On each Cover) then undo the 3 10mm bolts, pop off the valve cover(s) peal out the old seal (It'll be hard kinda like plastic) then install your new seal, use the new grommets they give you (Should have 6) line the cover back up, insert the bolts, and torque them down till they are snug (Give it just a little bit more torque) and you are good. Just do not raunch on them, they do not need he-man force. And no, you can leave it over night, just put a towel or rag over the head to protect the rockers/cam from water or dirt.

I also need to grab some new Fuel line to replace the Trans cooling lines with. Anyone know off hand what size it is? 3/8"?

I hear that! The weather we had Tuesday was the cats rump roast. I'll give you a text tomorrow and let you know whats up.

There is no reason to get a realignment after the bearing job. You are only unbolting the tierod end BJ from the Hub, there for the wheel toe will remain the same as before. Part search for B&M is not always accurate, if you go there in person, they can get you whatever you need, they will get it from another yard, make sure its good to go, and sell it to you.

The top most 17mm bolt where the strut meets the knuckle, is the Camber bolt (Has a lobe on the shank) If you loose position of the camber bolt, just put it in, then turn it until the wheel camber is just a little Negative, once you set the vehicle back on the ground, the tire should be sitting flush/flat with the pavement, and you will be good to go. Easy stuff here...

Yes, the entire hub assembly. It will be quicker and easier. You will need an Alignment if you f******* with the inner rods, but if you remove the old one, and get it close, you can adjust it as needed until it does not pull. I aligned my own rods. Check out B&M for a Hub. http://www.bandmauto.com/

Coupes are becoming few and far between, getting onto that one is a good idea. Looks clean.

156k! Its still a baby, sh*t mine has 224k (Was a neglected ghetto car most of its life lol) As for the link pin, yes, it is just a bolt. Unless dude was talking about the swapbar end link (Which is hard plastic) and looks like this: This one is a Performance version with Poly bushings, but looks the same.

Yeah, I trust people who say "Its a rebuilt" about as much as Firestone tires. They might have been new seals, or he reused them, or he over squashed them when new and caused pre-mature failure. Your swapbar link pin is only a 12mm bolt with a smooth shank. You could actually leave the swaybar off if you wanted too, there isn't much difference in handling, unless you are gonna Autocross this thing? How man miles are on this car again?

In order to replace the wheel bearings on an EJ body car, you need to press the new bearing into the hub. Which means, you need to unbolt the strut, balljoint, axle and tierod from the hub to remove it. You will need at least a 12ton press for the bearing. Old bearing will be hard to remove, but will pop with enough force. I have done these on a '95, yours would be the same. In most cases, if you are gonna send 100 for a bearing, its quicker and easier and priced the same to replace the entire hub with another from a Junkyard. That is what I always do. A used good hub from a Salvage yard will be about $120. Any Outback/Baja hub will work, from late 2000-03.

If you have a few bucks, I would replace the Valve cover seals/grommets. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=128799 And if you ever do a timing belt on this car, I would also replace both the Cam and Crankshaft seal. http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=498933 http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=498953 The best part is, there is no need to pull the motor. Only seals that you would need to pull the motor to replace would be: Rear Main, Oil separator plate, and backing plate. The rear main seal rarely leak, its usually the Oil separator/backing plate(s)

It might help a little, Valve cover gaskets and Oil pans tend to leak after so many years, just because the torque is lost over the years (Seals shrink) There are 3 10mm bolts with grommets on each valve cover in a horizontal line, just snug them a little more and see if that helps. There are also a series of 10mm bolts on the oil pan, snug them up a little too. 1/4" drive ratchet works best, as you do not want to put to much torque on them and snap a head off. You can also check/snug the Intake bolts, there are 8 12mm if I recall, it doesn't hurt to check bolts, I always do. Cheers, -Tom

Jon, Just thought about this, your Dodge is gonna get some bad milage with the plow on it! Its like 20 miles round trip from your place to mine and my place to yours. (Does that make sense?) lol Have you been out to Al's at all in the past week/end? I hope Norm is a man of his word and that '96 is still there, I am hoping to snag it for no more then $325 ...

Its pure class. Don't you forget it!

There shouldn't be any noticeable vibration coming through the shifter while driving, I rest my hand on mine and its fairly smooth (Very slight hum feeling from the trans) Whining could be a lot of things, Bearings, U-joint or carrier bearing on the center driveshaft, Internal trans bearings, Diff, or even dirty ATF etc.. Funny that its only once in a while. As for the smoke, yeah, since you manually down shift and bring the RPMs up, it most likely is a seal, Could be Valve covers, Cam/crank seals, Oil pan, Rear backing plate, Which non of these are serious, unless it is pissing oil. Try snugging the 3 10mm bolts for the Valve covers using a 1/4" drive ratchet, that might help. The 4EAT trans are build very solid, best Subaru Automatic made, chances of anything wrong with it are slim. If you have no slipping or delayed gear engagement, I would not worry much.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=endscreen&v=GBTDIpKT6V4&NR=1

When you shift into gear(s) do you feel anything (Stiffness, Vibration etc.) in the shifter? Sometimes if you are parked on a hill or a place where you have all the vehicle weight on the parking pin, it could make a noise when shifting it out of Park. Also, do you Valve covers leak oil? This could also cause white smoke (Mine used to when I'd shift at red line and increase the oil PSI which would make the seals leak more) which in turn hit the exhaust and caused a nice cloud behind me.

JesZek is correct, I just took a good look at my '92 SPFI EA82 heads. Their indeed Gen 2 heads (Underlined EA82) The MPFI EA82s might be different?

DIY EJ Strut Lift Blocks: Thanks to Monstru. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=128665&page=4

I like this idea, very easy to do. And is way cheaper then those other Poly blocks you can buy on various sites. Nice idea!