TheLoyale

1970 600.

*Cough* Yeah, Torque Converter bolts are gonna be a PITA to get to.

Good thought. Didn't mention this, but, after you drive it some place, shut it off and come back 10-20min later and fire it up, it'll kick up to 1600rpm for a sec then lower down to normal running speed (Which is normal, why it doesn't do that when its cold is beyond me)

The 4EAT is pretty robust, Pulled 2 Subarus with it (one from Chicago) I was mainly thinking of running it through the trans on the Legacy before trying on my Landcruiser (Which downshifts a little hard at times)

What would cause extremely low idle at cold start up? IAC? Cause I'm talking "Low idle" 300rpm then slowly works it way up to 700rpm (It should idle at least 1500rpm when cold) I have no codes, and it runs fine other wise. I have cleaned the IAC the best I could without taking it off the intake, I have also ran Seafoam through the intake system twice before this started. All Vac lines are new (Even the 3/4" ones) All electrical plugs are clean. Everything is up to par maintenance wise. Ideas?

The slowest Polazi cars in the world...

It works fine, other then it holds gear a little longer when its cold, takes a little for it shift outta 2nd. Trans-Tune is composed of 3 Petroleum bases, its basically a flush to remove varnish from the valves, bands etc..

The Full size spare was at a later date, all I could get was the Peugeot Rectangle hole style. I went with a Grabber tire as I was going to run those, but bought the Bighorns instead (A much better tire)

Officially stored for winter.

Thinking of running Seafoam Trans-Tune through the system and see if it'll clean out the valves and whatnot. Has anyone had results from this product? Good, Bad, Neutral.

I really like the roof bars on that.

*Cough* Trashwagon.

If you look at this image, the car is stuck. Its too deep for that style of tire, plus having open diffs. Yeah, that picture is kinda a "lie" if you will.

Fel-Pro gasket sets usually always have Genuine gaskets in them. Genuine Thermostat is always a good idea, they are build more solid and are the proper Temp Degree. The rest of the parts you can run aftermarket and you'll be fine. Ebay timing kit for example. Also I try to run Genuine Oil Filters, if not, then a WIX.

Yeah, right. I'm sure the only ones still in existence are locked away in Fuji Heavy Industries attic. Plus, this would never fit in an SVX or any Subaru. an ER27 won't even fit in a Loyale without some radiator support fitting.

The Motor in that Manatee is a Duel carb EA71. Subaru did on the other hand, make a Flat-12.

Yes! That is where I've seen that before. Sabaroo, hope the valve job went well.

That plug is indeed for the front O2 Sensor (There are two of them on that car) The miscellaneous part looks like some type of bushing, not sure for what though. All in all, what did you take apart? Just pulled the motor? -Tom

Replaced some PCV hose with reenforced Polyurethane.

Cleaned out the IAC and PCV system today, replaced the 3/4" hose that runs from the plastic PCV junction to the block. Original hose was hard as plastic and cracked. Now have Polyurethane hose in its place.

Ya know, ever since this car got hit, I think it shifted the steering box a little (Besides making it jump a tooth or two) as my driverside Tie-rod boot rubs on the crossmember (Passenger side clears just fine) I also need to replace the inner rod on the pass. side, starting to get a little play in the ball.

Wow, it does really work! Tired it on my Landcruiser Thank you!

0-60mph - 14sec. (Taking it easy after 2rd gear)

Tire rotation and chassis inspection. 19mm nutz.

I would say the dealer wants like $220 for one (Subarupartsforyou.com) has them for said price. Sound of the EJ22.