s'ko

down time is a somewhat of a concern since i only have a 1 car garage & don't have extra space to rebuild a tranny & have the car apart. if i manage to get approved for a home loan, then i will be looking for a 2 car garage and then i will have plenty of room. how hard is it to remove the gears and install them onto the pinion? is it something i can do at home or do i need a tranny shop to do it? from what you have gathered, your end product will have the lsd center. it there a way to get the lsd stuff into the locking center diff housing? thanks for the input on this project bw

What he said. I would recommend getting some STi wheels or may a set of tribecas then the SVX community will be like this

CEL Light is a negative signal. not sure what car you have, but if there is no CEL light, you can take a positive wire and hook it up to a bulb and then connect it to the negative wire. You need to have a low wattage bulb. I think it's like 1.5 watts. If it's too high, like a turn signal bulb, it will burn out that circuit. Ask me how I know Neutral switch and inhibitor switch you can not worry about. VSS is the reed switch. BW

ok. so if i take the FT4wd upper gearset and the D/R upper gearset to a tranny shop & have them swap it, it should be good. i regards to using the EJ center, i will see about getting a trashed EJ tranny w/the center diff. shouldn't be too hard to find. would i have to use the ea casing or can i used the ej casing? i would ideally like to either buy & use the ej tranny or buy the adapter plate. thanks for the input BW

I need some input on this. My 2k OBS has a bad case of rod knock and the tranny synchros are bad. So I secured a EJ25 shortblock that I am going to put the EJ22 heads on and build a high compression hybrid EJ motor. To replace the tranny, I originally wanted to go with a D/R 5 spd but I think that with the high comp and increased torque, the FWD would not be enough with my heavy foot. The D/R I have is a n/a one so the stub axles are 23 spline. I have a ft4wd s/r in my garage as well so I decided to take apart both trannys to get the 25 spline stub axles from the FT4wd tranny and put it into the D/R front diff. While I had it apart, I started seeing if the FT4wd main gear set would work in the D/R casing and it fits. Problem is that it would be 3.7 final drive, but then the d/r would be the 1.5 to 1. I also would not have to swap out the 3.7 gearing on the LSD rear diff to 3.9. Should I rebuild the D/R tranny to basically be a RX tranny w/the 1:5 to 1 D/R? Final product of this project is going to be 2k OBS w/2 inch lift and Forester struts. High Compression EJ hybrid motor. Plan on running atleast 27 inch tires. Thanks for the input. BW

Thanks for the help. Ok here are some tips. EA82 D/R 5 Speed 1) remove all bolts that hold the two sides of the case together. 2) remove the 14 mm bolts in the back of the tranny case and the transfer case. 3) punch out the D/R lever 4) punch out the pin holding the shifting assembly 5) remove the reverse switch 6) remove the shifting fork and the 3 12mm bolts holding the plate on behind the fork. 6) take a rubber mallet and smack the back case and separate it from the front case. You will see 4 10mm bolts, two on each side. Remove two of the bolts on the passenger side. Tap the sides of the front and the case will start to split. Lay the tranny onto the driver side and take the passenger side off. Here comes the fun part. 7) Remove the other 10mm bolts 8) take the smaller gear set and lift it up. The rear will be held on by the reverse shifting fork. I had to pull it pretty hard to get it to come out. The main gear set w/the pinion gear lifts off a little easier. EA82 FT4WD S/R 1) remove all bolts that hold the two sides of the case together. 2) remove the 14 mm bolts in the back of the tranny case and the transfer case. 3) remove the reverse switch, unbolt the diaphram for the locking center diff. 4) punch out the pin holding the shifting assembly 5) remove the 14mm bolts at the very back of the transmission 6) take a rubber mallet and smack the back part of the transmission. It will start to seperate from the transfer housing. This portion holds the center diff. 7) smack the transfer case housing and it from separate the front case. You will see 4 10mm bolts two on each side. Remove two of the bolts on the passenger side. Tap the sides of the front and the case will start to split. Lay the tranny onto the driver side and take the passenger side off. 8) Remove the other 10mm bolts 9) lift the smaller gear set from the front 10) with the center diff removed it will be easier to remove the main gear set.

Great job Daniel. see, it wasn't that bad huh? Brian. COME TO THE EJ SIDE OF THE FENCE.... (in my ominous darth vader voice) and witness unlimited power..... Take it from a dude who has 2 smog legal EJ swapped EA cars. OBD1 is the route to go b/c there's less sensors. OBD2 is possible, but you will have to figure out how to get rid of the gas tank pressure sensor and a few other sensors plus the OBD2 diagnositic/smog plug. If it's a new OBD2 motor like an 02 EJ20 you might be able to have someone disable to error codes on the ECU. BW

If all of this is too much for you...I'll take the hood and front clip from you. have sawzall will travel.zzz but seriously, replace the turbo and have fun, then while you are waiting for the engine to go out, build an EJ turbo motor. BW

Brakes worked. just didn't press them in time. :-\

What year is the EJ22 ECU? BW

So I was driving home there other day and was in stop and go traffic. Cars in front of me stopped... I was still going. Hit a 99 Grand Cherokee. Fortunately, for the Cherokee, it sustained scratches on his bumper. Unfortunately for the RX, both headlights are smashed, the lights still light up, radiator is cracked and leaking, of course the AC radiator is untouched. My slim fan is dead, the stock fan is fine. The hood, the I just finish bondoing a good scoop and stripping that on is pushed up in the front. It's not completely crumpled, but it's hard to open and close the hood. I replaced the radiator and I have a set of head lights in my garage that I am going to put. Any hints on straightening the front radiator support and getting things to line up right again? Sorry no pics, will take pics tomorrow. BW

Welcome. What part of California are you at? If you are near the Los Angeles area, we can maybe get together and kick ideas around. Non-computer controlled tranny would probably mean a manual. Here are some questions you need to think about. 1) How much HP do you want. 140 hp in a 2600 lb car vs 140 hp is a 1600 lb car is a huge difference. 140 being the HP of a typical OBD1 EJ22. 2) How good are you with wiring. If you go EJ then you will need to know how to get the harness trimmed. To entirely tough, but time consuming and very intimidating for a 1st timer. A good donor probably would be an early 90-95 legacy. Lots of them out there, and you can get one for under 1000 in running condition, in non-running condition, you can get it for under 500. When you get to the later model legos w/the DOHC EJ25, you start seeing HG problems. What ever you decide to do you might as well design the tube frame so that you can get easy access to the heads. That will facilitate future poor man power upgrades. Do some searching on nasioc and rs25 on the various hybrid motors out there. EJ25 shortblock w/EJ22 heads for high compression n/a motor, EJ22 shortblock w/EJ25 DOHC heads for low compression high boost motor. Have fun w/your project. BW

When I mean compression, I am talking about having the timing right. This is what I am concerned about. The EJ25 is a DOHC motor and the ECU will be trying to fire for the DOHC cam sequence. Not sure how things are affected when you put a SOHC on there, most likely the valves will not be opening at the right time b/c of this. You might want put the original SOHC cam pulleys on and try cranking it. Keep us posted. BW

might be timing. can you confirm fuel? pull a plug and smell for gas. If that's the case then we are dealing w/compression. Keep at it. BW

EA82 5 speed. Need some help in getting the tranny apart. I removed all of the bolts and I cannot remove the rear hosing. The case is partially split but it’s getting hung up on the DR lever HELP. BW

something else just came to mind. Is the EJ25 DOHC or SOHC. If it's DOHC, the cam sensor and crank sensors might be responding to where it should be in the DOHC and not the SOHC. This might be what is causing the problem. Having an OBD2 EJ22 ECU might help to clear things up, but doesn't sound like you have one lying around. BW

your location says Hollywood so I am assuming California. Welcome to the board. First you might have some problems w/CA SMOG if you want this to be street legal or you can go the other $$route$$ at the testers. the swap seems pretty straightforward. OBD2-OBD2. You might even be able to tell the CARB ref that it's a 2002 turbo motor, as long as you set up the motor the same in terms of looks and exhaust configuration. I have gotten two swapped EA cars past the CA smog ref so let me know if you need help. The guy at El Camino Comm college is great and very fair. have fun BW

good engine since it's non-inteference ok let's start from scratch. 1) what engine harness did you use. 91-95 is OBD1 engine. the short block should but there might be some differences in the way the engine harness plug is hooked up. 2) You also might have some problems with the cam angle sensor. IIRC, the cam sprocket on the EJ25 are plastic and the EJ22 OBD1s are metal. The metal bit on the cam sprocket might be located in the wrong position so it's not sending a signal at the right time and thus no spark. I have a set of both at home, will take a look at it tonight and post what I find. 3) the timing gear might also be different in where the spokes are orientated. I might have a OBD1 gear as well. this would also create a no spark situation remember, the 3 components of a running motor, compression, fuel (air/gas) spark. looks like you have the first two. Of course you can always get a can of starter fluid and shot it into the intake to see if it will light up. If not, then you have to focus on spark. BW

I don't thinking changing computers will do anything. it looks like from the wiring diagrams the 97 EJ25 and the 97 EJ22 have the same wire routing. It might help to use the EJ25 engine harness if you aren't using that. Are you able to pull engine codes? No spark could be the result of a bad crank angle sensor. Also check your grounds to make sure that are good. BW

welcome. how is your mechanical skills? Head on over to the retrofitting section and take a look. The hardest part of the swap is the wiring. But since you work with electrical, it should be easy. It's basically getting a copy of the diagrams and tracing them to the terminal ends and cleaning up the harness. Hopefully, the seller will include a harness for you. If not, I am sure that we can help you make something happen. I have to look in my garage, but I think I have a ECU and a complete uncut EJ18 harness. There are basically about a dozen or so wires that you need to get it merge with the car harness. Mechanically you will need to get an adapter plate, RGuyver is having a blow out on his, if your EA82 is carbed, then you will need an SPFI fuel pump and high pressure hoses. EJ18 fits right into the engine crossmember of the EA82 with no modifications needed. If the engine is not complete, you will need to source an ignitor & a MAF sensor possibly the coil pack and other sensors for the engine. Take a picture of the engine before you buy it and post it on here so we can give you some hints as to what you need. how much do you think it is to ship an engine to chile, you could get one from the US for a lot cheaper than $600 bucks. But then shipping would kill you. BW

here is the email I sent them Their answers are in red and bold. ***************************** do the heads have to be bare or can the valves train be installed? yes the heads do need to be bare. You can do the valves and valve springs separately. How much do you charge for a set of Subaru heads? It's a 4 cylinder horizontal motor, similar to the older VW air-cooled engines $130.00 ea . An entire 4 cyl. engine price is $450.00 For the short block, it's an aluminum block w/steel sleeved cylinders. Is that going to be a problem with the two metal types? Yes the sleeves must be removed, but you can also do the sleeves separately. Should I have all the machine work done on the parts before the cryo process? All machine work should be done before the cryo treatment. For the transmission, can I provide the entire gear set or do the gears needs to be separated. You can leave the gear set intact. for differentials, LSD clutch packs, wheel bearings, CV joints how much disassembly needs to be done for these items? All plastic or rubber parts and seals must be removed. The less stress you have on any part the better, nothing can be torqued down, only finger tight. ************************ BW

year and the chassis the engine came out of would be a big help in getting you the right info. BW

got an e-mail from 300 below. here is a copy of their price list. I am asking them about subby heads and the cost since there are two of them, I am also asking about the short blocks to see if the steel sleeves are going to be a problem. It looks like it's going to cost $3.50 a pound to cryo treat the rear stub axles. minumum order is $100. maybe we could do a group buy or something like that and get a bunch of Stub axles frozen. BW

I have a tool called the "persuader" as well. 3 foot, 1/2 inch o.d. steel pipe. one end is for sticking the ends of a ratchets into, the other end is hammer flat to pry things with. Only bashed myself in the face once with it while prying something. made a block wrist pin cover tool using a 9/16 coupler. so techinically I didn't make it, except for a little grinding here and there. made a axle pin remover using a long metal rod. Not sure of the o.d., but b/c of it's length, I can pop out the pins through the engine bay. BW

wow. those look sick i have a set of solid spoke pugs to go along with that...